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Well, guys.. I know it doesn't look like much but.. had to raise the car, drop in the mock up motor, unpack the piping, get the welder out and dusted off and spooled up, then I noticed i only had about 1/8 tank of argon..lol derrrr.. so i welded till it spattered then drained the rest of the tank.. will refill tomorrow as well as find some steel for my motor mount design. well here are the pics.. they should be coming fairly steady everuy 2-3 days as I get some more accomplished.. but the game has started. whoo hooo!
Chris
there ya go.. i know it doesn't look like much, but that back one was the only one I was concerned about the rest are a walk in the park..lol I had to beat abd bend that bastard to get it right and not obstruct the flange port for good flow.. shes a beaut now though..lol
my # 8 cyl tube is that close as well and it torched the a/c box. DOH! Might wanna look into the zr1 box or notch and fiberglass it like bruce's. just a 1/2 inch can mean the world (or a fire) lol.
Great job on the garage and getting started. appropriate cyl to start with, too. It kinda sets the pace (place?) for the rest of em.
how much is the ZR1 box and do ya have the part number? I would do anything I can to gain some room here as it also effects my downpipe size.. currently, I will have to do some real fancy **** to make a 3.5" DP work, 3" will fit and clear fine...lemme know man.. and yeah i went for the hardest mother Effer I saw and tackled it.. should be straight forward from here once the new motor mount is fabbed up! thanks man!
fiberglass is something I have an abundance of as my family has the boat shop..lol and glass work is a snap.. but I really hate to start chopping up the box.. I may just wrap some aluminum plate with some heat shielding and mate it between and call it a day there.. the picture is kind of deceiving, there is almost a full 3/8" clearance between the primary and the box plenty to put a 1/8" sheet of aluminum and wrap it with heat shield and still have some clearance.. if i notice it making contact on the aluminum to the point where I am concerned it will break or damage somethign at that point I will go for the box reshape..
thanks man.. get that rear mount vid up dude.. your killin me!
Just in case you want one... The place to get your ZR1 heater box and cover is from VPI, they buy whole "lots" of discontinued parts from GM.. You have to have the part number ready to order, but the prices are DIRT cheap... this is the place GM uses to obtain discontinued parts:]
(877) 846-8243
I believe these are the correct part numbers:
52450785 and 52452599. One for the housing and one for the cover. The ZR1 cover is not only cut back from the valve cover, but the housing itself that holds the heater fan actually pulls the whole evap. assembly back about 1 inch. When I bought mine two years ago they had 26 of them left, or something like that. I think I paid $60-70 for both pieces. I also have written in my book part no. 52453155.. not sure what that is for.. You may want to call a Chevy dealer and give them the aforementioned part numbers to make sure they are correct for the ZR1 application.
Edit:::: I think the third number is for the actual cover that the temp module fits into.. There are three pieces... the large piece that captures the squirel cage and motor, the other half to that which faces the motor, and also the smaller cover piece which extends over the valve cover.. at least in my car anyway.. so those three part numbers should take care of you.
Tony
Last edited by TONYDEE64; Mar 14, 2005 at 03:34 PM.
I've been looking for a VKE 1000 keyless entry system and it's been discontinued from GM. This company had it for $40 less than retail. Hopefully I'll have it by this weekend and I'll be able to totally throw out my faulty PKE system.
Next time you're in my neck of the woods let me know and I'll buy you a beer.
I've been looking for a VKE 1000 keyless entry system and it's been discontinued from GM. This company had it for $40 less than retail. Hopefully I'll have it by this weekend and I'll be able to totally throw out my faulty PKE system.
Next time you're in my neck of the woods let me know and I'll buy you a beer.
You know, I will hold yo to that..Will that keyless entry work on my 1991? What is the part number if you don't mind...? (Sorry to highjack...)
You know, I will hold yo to that..Will that keyless entry work on my 1991? What is the part number if you don't mind...? (Sorry to highjack...)
Tony, it's overly coincidental that I started this other post this morning and then got your info. The price they gave me was $90.30. This post will have everything you need, including some instructions that should help with the install.
If I could find someone with a 93+ Shop manual that has a wiring diagram of the PKE module I'd be perfectly set to install mine this weekend
well... spent about 4 hours in the garage tonight.. removed the passenger side motor mount completely and fabbed up a quick stand to keep the engine where it needs to be.. the rest of the fab work will be done with the old motor mount out, and the new mount will be fabbed once the plumbing is routed.
my passenger side header looks like I can get the rear 3 primaries collected and into a 2.5" pipe which will continue forward and have the drivers side and passenger side 2.5" pipe Y into the 3" pipe turning up and to the turbine inlet, the forward most primary on the passenger side will have to go in front of the new motor mount and into the 3" pipe right before the up turn to the turbo.. I doubt this will have any drastic negative effects, and wish I could get all 4 collected on the passenger side, but i just don't want to limit myself to the 3" downpipe and even if I went to a 3", I doubt I can get the room I need to do it that way. VERY tight there. no pics tonight, had to grind of the middle back primary and weld the two centers together at the inner seam to seal once welded. tomorrow the pass header and turbo primary should be very close to completed. I have decide to Cheat on the drivers side for now and use a SS SLP shorty from an old set I have, I feel this will still look nice coated, and serve the purpose needed on that side. and it will save me quite a bit of time of installing most of the accessories to make sure the front most drivers side primary clears everything. I will have a 2.5" pipe coming of the shorty and under the pan to Y into the 3" turbo primary as stated above.. I know it is hard to read and visualize, but if ya hang in there until tomorrow or possibly wednesday night late, I should have the latest pics up and it will make much better sense.. anyways.. still making forward progress so thats always a plus.. I love fabricating.. its good stuff!
Chris
Very similar to that.. the turbo will be a little fuirther forward, and the intake angled about 45* to the corner of the head to clear the radiator shroud... but yes it will be very similar indeed! and yes all accessories will remain functional and all belt driven accessories will remain in their factory locations with exception of the A/C radiator which will b relocated to make room for the front mount intercooler in front of the cooling radiator in the shroud.
Tony, it's overly coincidental that I started this other post this morning and then got your info. The price they gave me was $90.30. This post will have everything you need, including some instructions that should help with the install.
If I could find someone with a 93+ Shop manual that has a wiring diagram of the PKE module I'd be perfectly set to install mine this weekend