When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1991 vette that has been running like crap for the past 3 months, just found out from the chevy dealer that 5 of my injectors are shot and the other 3 are close to being shot. They want almost $2000. to replace them...must have been smoking crack. Anyway, just ordered them for $266. I was told there not that difficult to replace. It doesn't look that hard. I do most of the maintenence work on the car myself. If anybody has any experience with replacing them I would really appreciate your input. Thanks, Frank from NY
make sure you have an o-ring kit and aome c-clips for the injectors. When I did mine two clips broke and no one with in 100 miles had one. Real pain in the rear for a cheap little part.
If you are going to take out the old ones and immediately install the new ones this won't be a problem...I had a 10 day break in between and, although I cracked the gas cap before I started, I tightened it back down...this caused pressure to build in the tank from the heat and fuel started pouring out of the rails..what a mess!...also, make sure you have some rags to stuff under the rails for any leakage when you pull the injectors...
I appreciate everybody's suggestions. I was just looking through the Haynes manual, it doesn't look to bad other than taking off the plenum and its attachments. Well I hope its a little warmer on Saturday! Thanks again...
I think it is quite an easy job. There are two torx bolts holding the runners, one in the right front and one at the left rear that come from the manifold side and the rear one is a bit difficult to remove. Took me 2-3 hours.
I do believe you can chage them out without pulling the plenum. However, I have changed injectors in my 89 without pulling the runners....and it is easy. I have a Word document that I attempted to place on the Tech Tips (and it never got there?) to describe how to do this. If you want a copy of the Word document, send me an email to samlam@charter.net.
SAM
there is basicly only one test for the injectors that you can do in the car.. get an ohlm meter, set it at 20 and on top of the injector there are 2 prongs. put the black on one and the red on the other. should be between 14-16 ohlms.. if not you have a bad injector.. can be a hair over or under.. a lower value is to much fuel, higher is not enough..you want them within 2% of each other..this test will not ensure a proper spray patten. they can test good and still need to be cleaned. but if they test bad they are toast..ALWAYS replace the all of them......
there is basicly only one test for the injectors that you can do in the car.. get an ohlm meter, set it at 20 and on top of the injector there are 2 prongs. put the black on one and the red on the other. should be between 14-16 ohlms.. if not you have a bad injector.. can be a hair over or under.. a lower value is to much fuel, higher is not enough..you want them within 2% of each other..this test will not ensure a proper spray patten. they can test good and still need to be cleaned. but if they test bad they are toast..ALWAYS replace the all of them......
can you do this check before removing any parts? or do you need to pull the intake or something. also, will this check locate a "leaky injector"?
yes.. all you need to do is pull of the injector wire harness off.. it will not locate a leaky injector...
thank you. ill check this out today, but i wish to trouble the forum some more. my search revealed a couple hits about a "cold start injector" that i'd never heard of before. The problems that I am having are hard starting when the ambient temperature is below 60 or so, and some light grey exhaust smoke when starting regardless of the temperature. The exhaust smoke problem comes and goes, sometimes its fairly noticeable and sometimes its hardly there at all. I don't know if its even related to the hard starting problem.
this car used to be a hawaii car, and in 88 degree weather it would start on the 5th or 6th turn almost every time. now it's in 20 degree weather and my starting technique is to turn it over 5 times, count to 20 seconds, turn it over 5 more times, count to 20 again, and then it will start up on the next turn, right away.
if there are any educated guesses I would appreciate hearing them. :o
Is 16.1-16.4 too high?? And I do have a code 44 (lean O2) but when i pulled my plugs and O2s (which was dead) they were extremely carbon fouled like it was running extremely rich. Could this just be the computer compensating too much and fouling out the O2 till it read leaner and leaner till it was just way too much fuel for the air???