its in and headers are bolted up along with the tranny and mounts....I should beable to fire it up tomarrow and go for a ride with open headers...it took a while because of a stupid galley plug..I had to completly tear it down again and put it all back together today..good thing I noticed it before I put it in...
anyway guys it goes on the dyno tomarrow night for tuning and I will get you all some numbers and hopefully they'll be good ones...
for all that who dont know....I built a 383 with eagle forged rods and crank and srp pistons and I stuck a comp cam with 510-520 lift and 276-286 duration, 1.6 roller rockers and my comp. ratio should be 10.5.1...I used my stock heads and ported them and stuck 202-160s in them, I got a 2500 stall and headman headers.,,tranny was build and its supposed to be good for 650 hp..
well after this weekend is over and hopefully everything goes well ,then its tim for my turbo work to begin....any way guys I will post some numbers in the next day or two..

 

Wow, that should be quite the stormer! Keep us posted

 

Have you had any problems with the "Headman's" matching up with your exhastports on your heads. I've read alot about this on this forum. Just wondering!

 

As I understand it, that is only a problem with L98 headers aligning with the raised exhaust ports of the LTx heads.

No intake mods on that 383? That ought to be one TORQUE monster. What is the .050" lift, duration of that cam?

RACE ON!!!

 

duration is 247/249 (i was thing about a diffrent motor 276/286) and the lift is 510-520 and with the 1.6 rollers its about 540-550 lift...and it has big runners and a bbk twin 52mm throttle body.
and as soon as everything starts for the turbo I will get a super ram intake.
I got the car running today and I noticed a loud banging sound as soon as I started it. it sounded like a rod nock...then I noticed a whole bunch of oil flowing on the floor.. so I got to looking and I found that my oil pressure sending unit blew out and when it did it blew the wire plug out and oil was fowing out of the top of the sensor.has anyone ever seen anything like that?anyway so I stuck a new one in and started the car again and once again it was knocking hard so I put it on the lift and I'll be dambed the balancer is hitting my crossmember in front...I used a 400 balancer when I balanced my rotating assembly..so I now have to make 1/4 inch plates to go in between my motor mounts and my block.so does anyone know exactly how much clearence I have for my hood stock?anyway atleast it fired up right anyway and seems to run good for no tunning... i will get pics and dyno numbers posted very soon.
also my headmans are very pleasing..they fit perfect with no issues at all.the starter is even very easy to get past them and mount..

 

I hope those aren't .050" lift, duration numbers.

Many people have successfully clearanced the cross member, rather than lift the engine to cure that common damper interference problem.

RACE ON!!!

 

ya there at .050......why?
also what is a better solution to clearance the balancer?

 

Doesn't the Chevy FB head also have a raised exhast port. Like the Vortec's?

 

ok well maybe I have to much on my mind but I got my cam card out and its advertised at 276/282 and at .050 it is 224-230..it is a comp cam and the grind # is xr276hr.....

 

That's a little better...You dont' have to raise the motor, just cut some clearance for it.

 

ok well exactly how do you get into the middle of the cross member to cut a place out? theres a spot right below the balancer on the bottom of the cross member that has two holes and theres a 3'' center section thats in the way of getting to the place that you would have to cut for it to clear...??

 

Ttt

 

That is a lot different than 247/249. That erases my concerns. It's hard to give good advice with bad input. This takes care of your IMs, too.

RACE ON!!!

 

ya, sorry about that.....lol its been a real long 3 weeks...so how exactly does a guy get int the lower part of the cross member to cut a spot out for the balancer??????

 

*I* have never done it. It may pay to do a search. As I understand it, it could be cut out with a torch and reinforcement welded in, or possibly just "crushed". I think Ski-dwn-it, among others, has addressed the subject.

RACE ON!!!

 

ok thanks man...I think I can use a grinder I have with a long bit used for porting to get in there and cut a section out. I dont think theres anyway to crush this area in because there is no way to get below the balancer.if the cutter I have dont work then i guess its time for the good old trusty torch but thats kinda risky and I will have to cut that 3 inch section out and reweld it when I am done. this just bites because everything was going good and I wanted to have the car on the dyno thisweekend but oh well....next weekend for sure though.,.