My original Memcal was destroyed (stepped on) and I have had a heck of a time finding a replacement. I have managed to get one from a 1986 Camaro.

Can I erase the EPROM and load a new mask and info designed for my car and be ok. Where can I get a copy of the latest 1987 data to load onto my Camaro chip?

I have the Carl Moates AU1 but have not used it yet (A newbee).

 

http://www.moates.net/fileman/ for bins.
I don't know if the camaro has the same componets external to the eprom. I would think it would have to be from a camaro that has the tpi setup not a tbi.
Try your local chevy dealer for a new memcal.

 

To erase that chip you'd need a UV eraser, they wern't EEPROMS, unfortunately.
What would be "better" would be Craig Moats' GP1 package and the bin for either an 88 Vette or disable the CSI and run the 89 ARAP bin.
If you just want the "correct" calpack try here http://www.rockauto.com/

 

Thanks gyus !! Good info.

Doesn't the Moates GP1 package still use your memcal for limp home mode???

Should this 86 Camaro Memcal be ok for that??

 

Yes and Yes.

 

Hay!!

Thanks! Now I need is the bin to load into the GP1.

 

Isn't the bin available at moates ? I linked to it in my previous post. BTW What is this for a vette/camaro/firebird... and what year ???????

 

I had assumed it was an 87 'Vette using an 86 Camaro calpack. And yes, it would run like absolute crap in a 'Vette, since it has a 350 and the Camaro had a 305.
If it were me I'd start off with the ARAP bin and see how the car likes that. If he has iron heads he will probably have to dial back some timing.
While I don't own a 'Vette I am running the ARAP in an 85 IROC converted to the 165 ECM controlling a "custom" built 350 with T/F heads. It runs great, 2-3 knock counts at most, no timing retard. I tried a 32 bin and 32b bin...but the 6E ARAP has run this engine the best.

 

You're going to need an '87 Corvette memcal as the limp home mode stuff is stored on that. Do the GM dealers no longer carry it? This is why if you fry an EPROM you can still drive home.

Do you have an auto or stick '87?

 

They used to be listed on GM parts direct and Rock auto...no longer there.
The limp home info on the NETRES is just basic, number of cylinders, induction type etc. He should be ok with a Camaro NETRES from an 8 cyl. TPI. I'm using an 88 TPI 305 calpack and a Moates adaptor on a 350, limp home works...runs like crap, but it does work.

 

Sorry about the lack of info. It is a 1987 Corvette with auto trans. The ECM is a 1227165 and the mask is $32B. I got the Camaro Memcal on e-bay and have no other info on it (other than it is from a 1986 Camaro).

I now have the Moates apu1, Tuner Pro RT program, several 29c256 chips (should hold two bins each), a G3 Moates switchable adapter, and various cables. I don't have a clue how to use any of it. I hooked the apu1 up to my computer last night and opened up Tuner pro. Looks impressive. Didn't know what to do first or how to bring in a bin file. I seem to lack documentation. Maybe I am suppose to print it out from somewhere???

The engine is out of the car at the moment, so I can't do anything with the car yet. I need to build a replacement for the destroyed original Memcal to, at least, get it started.

I really appreciate all the response. You have all provided helpful info.

Thanks !!

 

I just went onto the Moates web site using JS's link(above) and down loaded a file called "88corv32.bin" . It appears to be the closest bin file I can find, although I found many that were possabilities, at least as far as I know.

Is anyone familure with this one??

Do I open up Tuner Pro and suck this thing in there somehow and then modify it and/or burn it on a chip with my aup1??

 

I think that may be my stock bin that I uploaded. It should work for you. Yes, you load the $32b mask then that bin to work from.

I dont have the emulator stuff, I just use the GP1 kit and the BURN1 reader/programmer and TunerPro, not RT. I have found it best to just do a "save bin as" after making changes and name it something like a summary of what I changed, like INJ CONST or MAF TABLE 1, etc.

After datalogging my changes, if I like what I have done I can tweak that bin from there, if I don't like the changes I go back and work with the the previously saved bin and just trash the new one.

Once I'm done with a tuning session I just make sure to document all the changes I made, easiest is to use the "Export Data to Text File" from TunerPro, this gives you all the current settings and you can compare it to your previous if you forget something.

 

Hay gbody5 !!

I follow what your saying. Makes sence!

Are you familure with the Moates GP3? I understand it is switchable for multipal bins, depending on which chip you put in it. I'm thinking of using 29c256 chip (I think that's the right number) which will hold 2 bins. I would put the stock $32B bin/mask on one, then develop and burn the modifyed bin on the other half. I would then be able to switch back and fourth between them.

Does this sound like a decent plan, or there better alternatives??

 

You could do that. I use the SF512 chips, so if you did the same you should be able to load 4 bins and switch between them. I could see where that would be handy, not sure if he had the GP3 when I got my stuff. With my two chips I just use one to burn my new bin to and if I like it I keep it and work on any other changes then use the chip I took out to burn the new bin onto, if I like it, it stays in and the cycle starts over, if not, I just erase and try my next bin mod on it.

What mods have you done to the engine? What scan tool do you use?

 

As the saying goes, "my mods are too numerious to list"....But I'll try.

I am assembeling my new engine using a 1979 400cid block, bored .060 over. The rotating assembly revolves around an Eagle 4340 forged crank w/ 3.75 stroke. 6" Scat "H" beem rods and KB130 pistons. The entire valve train is Comp Cam. The cam itself is a 12-417-8 grind. Very simular to the Lingerfelt 219 cam. Retrofit hydraulic roller lifters and matching push rods. Pro Mag Steel Roller/Rockers w/1.6 ratio on 7/16 studs. Beehive springs & retainers. This all moves by double roller timing set. The heads are 1990 113's. Ported and polished with 3 angle valve job. They are matched to intake manifold and exhausting into a set of coated TPiS headers, Random Tech Cat and low resistance targa mufflers. Up front is a SLP cold air intake w/ K&N filter, smooth (replacing original corrogated) connector to MAF sensor. Throttle body bored to 52MM with an air foil installed. Match porting everywhere. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. TPiS magnum plug wires, low temp thermostat and MAT sensor relocated. The Distributor was restored with all new internal wiring harnesses, Hi-per module,MSD rotor, cap & coil. This should produce a steady spark way beyond the RPM range this engine will be expected to turn. Im' still codigitating about the torque converter, but leaning toward a B&M holeshot 2400.

I've probably forgotten something but I'm fighting sleep

 

You may be disappointed with that idea...I had thought of doing the same thing, I ran into a problem with the switcher unit. The best that I can describe it as is "bleed over" from one bin location to another. I have discussed my findings with Craig, we've both come up with some ideas to try to correct what I am getting but nothing is working.
So I just burn the chip full of the same bin.

 

I had that TC behind a 350 with LT1 cam in my 86 Monte SS converted to 700R4, I liked it alright but you could probably go with even a little higher stall, not sure how many there are that still offer lock-up. What scan tool do you have and what injectors?

 

Thanks Morley for the heads up. Maybe I'll re-think that. I wonder how successful the f40 (something-or-other) chip does? The one where you can supposedly stack, like, 16 bins?? I guess what you are getting at, is that the switch mechanism is what is causing the bleed-over, not the chip. What is the prefered chip for a single bin??

Hay gbody5 ! The injectors I have came in a Ford box with a real Ford part number on it. The dealer assures me that they are a matched set (for what ever that's worth). They are made by Bosch, just like the originals. I think they are what are generally refered to as "Ford Blue Tops". Other than that, I don't know any more about them, other than they are suppose to be 24# injectors.

As for SCAN tools.....Since I purchased this equipment my car has been in the winter project mode, decorating the floor and shelves of my garage. So I have had no operating car to play with. As I understand it (limited as that may be), with the cables, the aup1, my laptop and software, I should be able to scan, and in fact record a run and change bin info on the run. I don't know if that is considered a scan tool or not, but 1 of the cables mates up with my ALDL port.

 

Yep, that should do it.