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How do I troubleshoot brakes?

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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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Default How do I troubleshoot brakes?

So I get in the car this morning and the first thing I notice is the brake pedal is rock hard. I drove it around the block to see if it would get better, but it didn't. When I pulled back in the garage it smelled like the brakes were burning. I thought maybe one of the calipers was stuck. I popped the hood to get a closer look and smoke rolled out from under it. I think it was more on the passenger side, but I couldn't really tell because it happened too quick. I jacked the front end up to see if the wheels would turn freely. They both did, although the passenger side was definately dragging more than the drivers side. But it still turned somewhat easily. So now I'm thinking it's either the master cylinder or the booster. I replaced the booster 2 years ago, and you could hear a loud hiss when the old one went out. I don't hear any hissing this time. How do I troubleshoot this short of throwing parts at it? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by flyersfan1088
So I get in the car this morning and the first thing I notice is the brake pedal is rock hard. I drove it around the block to see if it would get better, but it didn't. When I pulled back in the garage it smelled like the brakes were burning. I thought maybe one of the calipers was stuck. I popped the hood to get a closer look and smoke rolled out from under it. I think it was more on the passenger side, but I couldn't really tell because it happened too quick. I jacked the front end up to see if the wheels would turn freely. They both did, although the passenger side was definately dragging more than the drivers side. But it still turned somewhat easily. So now I'm thinking it's either the master cylinder or the booster. I replaced the booster 2 years ago, and you could hear a loud hiss when the old one went out. I don't hear any hissing this time. How do I troubleshoot this short of throwing parts at it? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks
This does not sound like a booster problem, but it's possible. It sounds as if your brakes on one, two or all wheels are not releasing. The only way the booster could be involved is if it not allowing full return of the master cylinder, needed to allow the brakes to retract to the released position. In other words, something is not allowing the pressure to go back to the normal residual level in parts or all of the system. You could have a stuck caliper, a bad hose that's acting like a one way valve, a problem with the linkage from the pedal, through the booster and into the master cylinder not allowing the master cylinder to release fully, etc. Has anything been replaced recently? Now, crack the bleeder screws to relieve excess pressure and see if the pedal returns to a normal feel. Take it for a short drive if necessary, the problem will probably return. The pedal may just return to the "hard" feel with just a few pumps. If it does, loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts to gain clearance and free travel, relieve the pressure with the bleeders again and try again. If this helps, something is not allowing the cylinder to retract. I've never seen a cylinder itself cause this but I won't rule that out. This should get you started.

Last edited by Corvette Kid; Mar 23, 2005 at 06:27 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by flyersfan1088
They both did, although the passenger side was definately dragging more than the drivers side. But it still turned somewhat easily.
Strange. The rubber lines usually swell shut with full pressure applied. I have seen some that have swelled not allowing anymore fluid, but I only saw that once. The truck pulled like a ****!
Pop the line loose at the passenger caliper. I bet the wheel will turn easier.
When you get a new line, change both sides.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
Has anything been replaced recently?

No


Now, crack the bleeder screws to relieve excess pressure and see if the pedal returns to a normal feel. Take it for a short drive if necessary, the problem will probably return. The pedal may just return to the "hard" feel with just a few pumps. If it does, loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts to gain clearance and free travel, relieve the pressure with the bleeders again and try again. If this helps, something is not allowing the cylinder to retract. I've never seen a cylinder itself cause this but I won't rule that out. This should get you started.

I tried just bleeding and the pedal was somewhat softer for one pump, than it got hard again. Then I tried loosening the MC and the pedal got softer again. What should I look at next?
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by flyersfan1088
I tried just bleeding and the pedal was somewhat softer for one pump, than it got hard again. Then I tried loosening the MC and the pedal got softer again. What should I look at next?
Okay, this is what I suspected from the beginning from your description. So, with the M/C loosened, it won't pump hard again? If this is the case, then you need to figure out what is not allowing the M/C to return to the rest position. It is essential that the mechanical operation of the cylinder have some free play in it, that is to say when the pedal is at rest, there is a slight amount of travel before the rod connected to the pedal mechanism begins to activate the M/C. I've not had this system apart on a C4 yet so I can't advise you as to where the likely problem areas are. I remember reading a thread on here one time where something had broken in this mechanical link, within the booster if I remember right, and it was causing a problem like this. Look under your dash and work your pedal and see if you can determine if there is free play. Then I'd finish unbolting the M/C and move it forward to examine the rod that activates it. You shouldn't have to disturb the hydraulic lines at this point, hopefully. If nothing is apparent see if you can remove the booster for closer examination. I wish I'd had one of these apart so I could be more helpful. I just don't know the peculiarities of this mechanical linking system.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 02:32 AM
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The only thing that would put force on the master cylinder with no pedaal pressure would be a booster pushrod that's unthreaded too far. These are adjustable, and can result in dragging brakes or a low vacuum assist if not adjusted right.

But if you swapped that two years ago, it wouldv'e been a problem right from the start.

I do believe the pushrod just sits in an indentation in the brake master piston. If it falls out of this indentation, it effectively would increase its length and cause the brakes to drag. I believe the only thing keeping this pushrod centered into the piston is the booster. If you pull the booster, you might find a problem there.
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