C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LT headers on a L-98

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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 02:24 PM
  #1  
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KEVS_L98
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From: IRVING TX
Default LT headers on a L-98

Any advice in a set of LT headers for an '89, stock engine with cat back exhaust, i do need the EGR hook-ups. I live in TX so we do have emissions , I think Hooker makes a set with the hookups.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
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The Hooker ceramic coated super competition 2149's with 1-3/4 tubes is what you're after. They have the EGR. They're what I got, I think I paid $549 at Summit with the ceramic coating.
The part # is HOK-2149HKR-1 make sure you add the -1 at the end for the ceramic coating to keep the underhood temps down and greatly extends life of headers.

Here's threads of my install...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+night+hookers
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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I had the 2149-1's on my '89. I loved them.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
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By the way, the dogs are sniffing your butt in Irving??? I live in east Texas and have never been sniffed. I kept the EGR anyway as I believe it helps cool things a bit and deleting it offers no signifigant performance gains. It may clean up the engine bay a bit but thats about all.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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I put the #2151s on my 90 coupe and it wasn't a picnic. I had to trim some heat shielding and grind the passenger side K member a little. But they are on. I don't know about you Dave but my Y Pipe is very close to my shift cable and the collector flange on the drivers side is very close to the trans tunnel. My car before ran a 13.91 very minor bolt on's w/2.59 rear. With the Headers installed it went 13.63 through a stock cat and mufflers. That valve cover paint makes em look just like they came from the factory.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 08:02 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
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Originally Posted by pipe
I put the #2151s on my 90 coupe and it wasn't a picnic. I had to trim some heat shielding and grind the passenger side K member a little. But they are on. I don't know about you Dave but my Y Pipe is very close to my shift cable and the collector flange on the drivers side is very close to the trans tunnel. My car before ran a 13.91 very minor bolt on's w/2.59 rear. With the Headers installed it went 13.63 through a stock cat and mufflers. That valve cover paint makes em look just like they came from the factory.
Well, it wasn't a picnic but really not that bad. I think the trick is to mount the headers but dont tighten the flange bolts yet, then mount the Y pipe to collectors and install the bolts but dont tighten them yet either. This leaves some slack and room for a bit of manipulation needed when lineing up the Y pipe. NOW go back and tighten the the headers at flanges, then go back under and tighten up the collector bolts.

It's a bit of a PITA this way if your working without a lift because it calls for like 4 times the trips under and out from under the car. It sure seemed to help me line everything up though. I didnt have to grind any K members. And yes pipe, the Y pipe is close to the shift linkage, but not rubbing. I like the way the headers are up almost higher than the oil pan. No dragging or road clearance issues here.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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From: Effort Pennsylvania
Default need help please

I have had nunerous vettes in my life this one has me stumped. When ever I start my car I can hear my headlights motors running, when I shut it down the light motors run again. Keep in mind I havent turned on the headlight switch at all. When I do they work fine. But when the car is started or turned of you can hear the motors running can someone please help. Thanks guys and gals.
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