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Ok guys here's the problem yesterday I saw my Alternator was cracked in half due to the fact I don't have a brace on the rear of it. I have the BPP Air Pump delete pulley on it. The Alternator is slightly bent forward due to not having the rear brace on it. I can't figure out where to mount a brace cause the stock one don't get close enough to my Hooker headers to bolt it up to them. Any help or pics would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
Ok guys here's the problem yesterday I saw my Alternator was cracked in half due to the fact I don't have a brace on the rear of it. I have the BPP Air Pump delete pulley on it. The Alternator is slightly bent forward due to not having the rear brace on it. I can't figure out where to mount a brace cause the stock one don't get close enough to my Hooker headers to bolt it up to them. Any help or pics would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
Are you running the correct header bolt on the #1 cylinder forward most header?
The one with the built in stud outboard of the hex head of the bolt.
LD85's brace will help, but also make a brace for the rear of the alternator. All you need is to buy some electrical conduit or other small diamter easy to bend pipe and make your own. Measure and cut the pipe to length, then smash the ends flat at the appropriate angles with a big hammer, and drill a hole in eash end. Then paint ti black, and no one will ever notice it.
LD85's brace will help, but also make a brace for the rear of the alternator. All you need is to buy some electrical conduit or other small diamter easy to bend pipe and make your own. Measure and cut the pipe to length, then smash the ends flat at the appropriate angles with a big hammer, and drill a hole in eash end. Then paint ti black, and no one will ever notice it.
Yea, that'll work. Or you can get a piece of threaded 3/8" coarse rod, cut it to the length you need, double nut it into the second from the front header bolt hole. Remove the two nuts, slide on a washer and re-install one of the nuts. That'll seal the header gasket.
There are a couple of ways to proceed from here:
Either slide your existing brace onto the portion of the stud stick out (maybe a few washers or a spacer will be needed) and use another nut to lock it in place, OR
Double nut the brace; screw a nut on the stud, slide on the brace then use another nut. Lock the two nuts against each other - one nut on either side of the brace.
Try to keep the brace as close to the head as you can; it's a leverage thing.
Lots of work-arounds.
I checked mine and found that it's to the second from the front header bolt, NOT the foremost as I'd originally posted. Sorry for any confusing.
LD85's brace will help, but also make a brace for the rear of the alternator. All you need is to buy some electrical conduit or other small diamter easy to bend pipe and make your own. Measure and cut the pipe to length, then smash the ends flat at the appropriate angles with a big hammer, and drill a hole in eash end. Then paint ti black, and no one will ever notice it.
I did it this way too, I attached it to the #3 exhaust flange bolt. Everything is powdercoated black, so it blends right in.
Guess i'm gonna have to bend up my original brace some cause it looks like some of the angles are wrong. I might have to cut one of the tubes off that are on the stock exhaust manifold where the bolts go through. Will it pull it back enough on the first bolt hole to give it enough support and properly line the ALT up? THANKS FOR ALL THE SUGGESTIONS GUYS PIPE
Ok guys here's the problem yesterday I saw my Alternator was cracked in half due to the fact I don't have a brace on the rear of it. I have the BPP Air Pump delete pulley on it. The Alternator is slightly bent forward due to not having the rear brace on it. I can't figure out where to mount a brace cause the stock one don't get close enough to my Hooker headers to bolt it up to them. Any help or pics would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
At least a year or so. I was going to take a piece of strap steel and go from the back of the alternator to the plug wire seperator bolt hole near cylinder #3 That should pull it back.