C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

ATI PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS "SUPER DAMPER"

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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 04:10 AM
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Default ATI PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS "SUPER DAMPER"

ATI 8+6 "SUPER DAMPER" now in stock for 1992-96 LT1/LT4 Corvette.
This crank pulley/damper has slightly larger OD (7.362" vs 7.0") than stock GM piece. It has dedicated 8 rib grooves (towards engine) for driving Vortech blower and standard 6 rib grooves (towards radiator) for driving GM accessories. It is same dept as stock GM balancer and will fit all LT1/LT4 Vettes with Opti distributor. It is keyed with standard GM 3/16" keyway. It can be used for ProCharger S/C kits but offers no advantage with regard to 6 rib stock. If enough interest from ProCharger owners will make another version where ribs run continuously from front to back for a total of 15 ribs. Price $495 plus shipping. If interested in purchasing E-mail me at: GREG@BLOWERWORKS.NET REGARDS GREG
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BlowerWorks
ATI 8+6 "SUPER DAMPER" now in stock for 1992-96 LT1/LT4 Corvette.
This crank pulley/damper has slightly larger OD (7.362" vs 7.0") than stock GM piece. It has dedicated 8 rib grooves (towards engine) for driving Vortech blower and standard 6 rib grooves (towards radiator) for driving GM accessories. It is same dept as stock GM balancer and will fit all LT1/LT4 Vettes with Opti distributor. It is keyed with standard GM 3/16" keyway. It can be used for ProCharger S/C kits but offers no advantage with regard to 6 rib stock. If enough interest from ProCharger owners will make another version where ribs run continuously from front to back for a total of 15 ribs. Price $495 plus shipping. If interested in purchasing E-mail me at: GREG@BLOWERWORKS.NET REGARDS GREG
Can't wait for mine to get here!!! Well, I guess I can since the motor isn't back yet..

Greg, going to offer a deal on 8 rib blower pulley and idler upgrades?

Thanks a ton for your efforts getting these built!
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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Can't wait for mine to get here!!! Well, I guess I can since the motor isn't back yet..

Greg, going to offer a deal on 8 rib blower pulley and idler upgrades?

Thanks a ton for your efforts getting these built!
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 06:15 PM
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I am having a tough time picturing the description.. i first imagined it as was state at the bottom.. a 15 rib pulley.. 6 for accessories and 8 for the dedicated blower drive belt.. am I missing something? have apicture of it?

thanks!

Chris
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 09:40 PM
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Two Views Of Ati Damper. Regards Greg
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 01:48 AM
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I guess this provides better grip for the supercharger belt? Less slippage? Anything for the L98 like this?
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 02:01 AM
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Very Nice Greg!

Mo
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcityvette
I guess this provides better grip for the supercharger belt? Less slippage? Anything for the L98 like this?
Yeah, the additional two ribs on the crank allow you to run a 8 rib blower pulley for better traction. The increase in crank pulley diameter lets you run the same blower impeller speed with a slightly larger blower pulley, thereby increasing traction too.

In my experience, an 8 rib setup is fairly reliable as far as belt slip is concerned down to a 2.75 pulley. Beyond that, then you're going to be slipping a bit no matter how tight that belt is.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 06:11 PM
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Greg, what's the install time on this piece and what is involved? What else is needed besides the blower pulley? The blower pulley is the standard 8 rib design common to mustangs right?
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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HI QWIKETZ - ZSTRIPS had a post on installing. Timing chain cover has to come off to remove stock stepped key and replace with standard 3/16" key.

Balancer can be used on Vortech LT1 S/C kit, Carroll LT1/LT4 S/C kit or as a stock GM replacement while you save for S/C !

ZSTRIPS is sending me his Vortech pulleys so I can put together an 8 rib kit for Vortech owners.

I'm also in the process of putting together an 8 rib kit for the Carroll/Vortech LT1/LT4 S/C kit. Should be done very soon.

Regards Greg
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 01:41 AM
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I'd guess it would be about 6-8 hours.... R&R ( and having a "good" day) if you have the water pump gaskets etc. etc. before hand.

I would suggest replacing the front seal and perhaps the opti if it has a lot of miles on it while your into it...

Just a thought!

Mo
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 01:43 AM
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that means 12-16 hours on my car, lol. Nothing is ever easy on it....
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mo_Bandy
I'd guess it would be about 6-8 hours.... R&R ( and having a "good" day) if you have the water pump gaskets etc. etc. before hand.

I would suggest replacing the front seal and perhaps the opti if it has a lot of miles on it while your into it...

Just a thought!

Mo
Or if you're me, you might as well replace the crank, rods, pistons, heads, exhaust, injectors, etc... while you're in there
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 01:06 AM
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Oh I forgot... throw a transmission in there too!

Mo
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by qwiketz
Greg, what's the install time on this piece and what is involved?
Actually I did a 8-rib dampener install on my vette, took about 4 hours but can do it now in about 2 hours. Didn't have to remove the timing cover or waterpump. Simply remove bolts holding dampener onto crank. Disconnect belts and jack up car. Get under neath car and walk old crank off by slowly banging with soft wood block on bottom of dampener while someone slowly turns over engine a bit at a time. Slip on new dampener and walk it on with holding bolts (try to keep it aligned and not strip anything while walking new one on).
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by XTwinTurbo
Actually I did a 8-rib dampener install on my vette, took about 4 hours but can do it now in about 2 hours. Didn't have to remove the timing cover or waterpump. Simply remove bolts holding dampener onto crank. Disconnect belts and jack up car. Get under neath car and walk old crank off by slowly banging with soft wood block on bottom of dampener while someone slowly turns over engine a bit at a time. Slip on new dampener and walk it on with holding bolts (try to keep it aligned and not strip anything while walking new one on).
This would be true if you were just installing a taper fit hub/balancer or if your engine has a keyed crank already (non-LT1). In the case of the LT1 going from stock hub to ATI, you must remove the notched key and install a new key into the crank. This is not an easy task and does require removal of timing cover/opti/water pump/timing chain/crank timing gear.
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 01:06 PM
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Hey all,

I'm in the middle of the ATI install and have run into some problems.

I just have a stock motor. 96 LT4. Are there any detailed instructions on how to install this thing?

I've already got the old hub off and am planning replacing the seals before moving forward, but I haven't found any good instructionals for this job.

Do you install the hub first and then the damper? when are you supposed to silicone the keyway if you're not installing a key? Is there an orientation for the hub? Just a lot of questions here and want to make sure I do it right the first time.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 07:41 PM
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Mic the crank snout and the hub to make sure press fit is correct. You may need to hone the bore.

instructions:

https:/www.atiracing.com/instructions/instructions.htm?srsltid=AfmBOooRpnB-NUMyZP7WHXoo_Y1XZuoaZpW7_WFXwwhoFUQIZbwU v5wo



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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AZSP33D
Mic the crank snout and the hub to make sure press fit is correct. You may need to hone the bore.

instructions:

https:/www.atiracing.com/instructions/instructions.htm?srsltid=AfmBOooRpnB-NUMyZP7WHXoo_Y1XZuoaZpW7_WFXwwhoFUQIZbwU v5wo
Hey AZ!

I think fit will be ok, it's just the installing that I'm not really looking forward to doing. I think what needs to be done is the engine lifted and the steering rack removed.

If that is the case, confirmed by someone who's done it, I'm going to just buy a new OE one and throw that back in.

It's just a bit more work than I want to put into it.

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Old Jul 3, 2025 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Asterios Anagnostou
Hey AZ!

I think fit will be ok, it's just the installing that I'm not really looking forward to doing. I think what needs to be done is the engine lifted and the steering rack removed.

If that is the case, confirmed by someone who's done it, I'm going to just buy a new OE one and throw that back in.

It's just a bit more work than I want to put into it.

theres no good reason to not be installing a key if you are installing this

Install a key
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