C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Warped rotors

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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:06 PM
  #1  
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Default Warped rotors

I had a friend who I used to talk to about Corvettes and he said the rotors on the C4 were notorious for warping and if you resurfaced them they just warped again very soon (even new ones were supposedly problematic). Is this true as my car vibrates while braking and it bugs me a lot. I just drove my car for the first time in a year and a half and it made me quite happy to do so.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Pulsing while coming to a stop is most likely warped rotors. Rotors do warp, but it is no where the problem your friend claims. I drive my 87 vette every day and since 1989 and I have had warped rotors once. I had them machined since they could be machined without going under the minimum thickness and I got another two years before they started pulsing again whereupon I replaced them (fronts). I have had no warped rotors since and I have 199k miles.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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Good to know...that didn't make too much sense to me. I'll check the thickness for viability in turning them. Thanks.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:54 PM
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IMHO, uneven pad deposits on the rotor probably cause a "warped rotor" feel than truly warped discs.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

remember to properly bed your pads/rotors if you get new pads or rotors, or turn your rotors.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 12:43 AM
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Warped rotors will shake the wheel while excess runout or buildup usually just causes pulsing right?
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 12:59 AM
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My warped rotors never shook the steering wheel, it just modulated the deceleration.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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New roters are only $60 or $70 a piece (last time I bought them at carquest). Thats not too bad if you ask me.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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The GM Service Manual does not recommend turning the rotors to reduce excessive runout (warping). The rotors are fairly thin in the first place and you would take too much material off the face and they could fail in heavy braking. You can turn them to remove some ridges from pad wear and such, but forthe money, it's much better to toss them and buy new rotors.

On my 87, I use the cheap "white box" rotors even for track use and toss them after a couple of events. Not worth going to the high-dollar rotors that may be ruined after a number of track days.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #9  
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Several good comments above.

If you have a pulse, then either material build up or "warped" rotor is the likely culprit. Assuming the rotors have never been cut, removing .003-.005 inch of material shouldn't be a big deal. You could remove the rotors, take them to a quality machine shop/brake service and measure the rotor's thickness. Make your call. I always recommend using a machine with a "twin-cut" set up. This cuts both sides at once, and with a good arbor, will true up the rotor quite nicely, like way less than .001 runout. If the pads are less than 50%, I'd put new ones on appropriate for the driving application. Street use only, use street pads. If you race, put on race pads, and there are selctions that can handle a variety of driving styles.

As stated above, if you race, no brainer, buy cheap and throw'em away.

And yes, a pulsating pedal is very annoying.

Good luck with this repair.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3speed shocks
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ZR_Don
New roters are only $60 or $70 a piece (last time I bought them at carquest). Thats not too bad if you ask me.
I get my rotors turned for $9 each at my local machine shop..Take'em in at 10:00am Saturday...get'em back 2:00pm same day....assuming they have not reached minimum thickness requirement, this is more economical....

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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 04:58 PM
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I warped my rotors running the dragon. :o
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