Clutch Replacement Qs
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 88
From: Springfield PA
Philly 'Burbs Events Coordinator
Clutch Replacement Qs
I have about 60K on my clutch and it seems to be slipping. It maybe the disk got some clutch fluid on it from the last leaky slave I just replaced. I also noticed the line between the master and slave at one point was resting on the heat shield to the cat. So I'll give it a few days to dry up and cool off then test it again.
Questions:
1. Should I stay stock? I'm mostly a cruiser.
2. Do I have to replace the flywheel?
3. Are the aluminum flywheels worth it?
3. Anyone have an inexpensive parts source?
4. What other parts should I replace, pressure plate, throwout bearing, fork, real oil seal?
5. Anyone have a write up on the procedure?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Questions:
1. Should I stay stock? I'm mostly a cruiser.
2. Do I have to replace the flywheel?
3. Are the aluminum flywheels worth it?
3. Anyone have an inexpensive parts source?
4. What other parts should I replace, pressure plate, throwout bearing, fork, real oil seal?
5. Anyone have a write up on the procedure?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Is this in the Z?
1) Considering your useage, I would stay stock.
2) At 60k, the flywheel is good for another 60k, so at this point, I would reuse it unless it's really worn or hot spotted.
3) No. They might be ok for the track, but the noise they create, the torque they loose and the tricky take up, I would stay away. And I have one. I would never get another. As annoying as the DM is, I think it's a good piece for the street.
If you want to go single mass, use a GM F-Body steel. What I don't know, in reference to the Z, is how much needs to be cut off. For an LT1, you have to cut .090 off, I don't know what the
4) Cheap parts? Call Chris at Superior Chevy, 1.800.728.8267. Tell him you are a forum member and that I said hi.
5) Rear main seal? Technically, on an SBC, yes, on the Z? I really don't know if it's a leaker. Replace the pressure plate and friction disc. The throwout comes with the pressure plate.
6) Not yet. I need to do one. But I also need pictures. I did my clutch last year, and I didn't have the time to take pics...
1) Considering your useage, I would stay stock.
2) At 60k, the flywheel is good for another 60k, so at this point, I would reuse it unless it's really worn or hot spotted.
3) No. They might be ok for the track, but the noise they create, the torque they loose and the tricky take up, I would stay away. And I have one. I would never get another. As annoying as the DM is, I think it's a good piece for the street.
If you want to go single mass, use a GM F-Body steel. What I don't know, in reference to the Z, is how much needs to be cut off. For an LT1, you have to cut .090 off, I don't know what the
4) Cheap parts? Call Chris at Superior Chevy, 1.800.728.8267. Tell him you are a forum member and that I said hi.
5) Rear main seal? Technically, on an SBC, yes, on the Z? I really don't know if it's a leaker. Replace the pressure plate and friction disc. The throwout comes with the pressure plate.
6) Not yet. I need to do one. But I also need pictures. I did my clutch last year, and I didn't have the time to take pics...
Last edited by bogus; Apr 10, 2005 at 09:31 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 4
From: Severna Park MD
Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
I have about 60K on my clutch and it seems to be slipping. It maybe the disk got some clutch fluid on it from the last leaky slave I just replaced. I also noticed the line between the master and slave at one point was resting on the heat shield to the cat. So I'll give it a few days to dry up and cool off then test it again.
Questions:
1. Should I stay stock? I'm mostly a cruiser.
2. Do I have to replace the flywheel?
3. Are the aluminum flywheels worth it?
3. Anyone have an inexpensive parts source?
4. What other parts should I replace, pressure plate, throwout bearing, fork, real oil seal?
5. Anyone have a write up on the procedure?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Questions:
1. Should I stay stock? I'm mostly a cruiser.
2. Do I have to replace the flywheel?
3. Are the aluminum flywheels worth it?
3. Anyone have an inexpensive parts source?
4. What other parts should I replace, pressure plate, throwout bearing, fork, real oil seal?
5. Anyone have a write up on the procedure?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
My clutch has been slipping also this winter, only in third gear when hitting it hard. I also had a leaking slave repaired a couple weeks ago. On Wednesday I went to over to Tony's Corvettes to talk about it and schedule the work, and here's what Tony said to me.
1) He recommends the stock clutch over any aftermarket clutch.
2) If the flywheel is worn from the clutch it can't be turned, it will have to be replaced, $1100.00 from GM. He won't know until it has been pulled. I'm guessing I didn't abuse it enough to need the replacement, and I won't be abusing it from now until I get the clutch replaced.
3) Tony says there is a special clutch fluid for these hydraulic clutches, we should not use brake fluid. Someone should inform Chevy dealers of this.
4) (Not from Tony), if you're not roadracing would you really want an aluminum flywheel? It will be harder to drive it smoothly in traffic when cruising. Also, a single mass flywheel will give you transmission rattle, are you sure you want that?
Tony also recommends against switching from GM fluid to Castrol synthetic in the ZF 6 speed. Says they have had some transmission failures with customers who switched. So I won't be going to the BMW dealer for oil.
Last edited by FELNGR8; Apr 10, 2005 at 10:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 88
From: Springfield PA
Philly 'Burbs Events Coordinator
Originally Posted by bogus
Is this in the Z?
1) Considering your useage, I would stay stock.
2) At 60k, the flywheel is good for another 60k, so at this point, I would reuse it unless it's really worn or hot spotted.
3) No. They might be ok for the track, but the noise they create, the torque they loose and the tricky take up, I would stay away. And I have one. I would never get another. As annoying as the DM is, I think it's a good piece for the street.
If you want to go single mass, use a GM F-Body steel. What I don't know, in reference to the Z, is how much needs to be cut off. For an LT1, you have to cut .090 off, I don't know what the
4) Cheap parts? Call Chris at Superior Chevy, 1.800.728.8267. Tell him you are a forum member and that I said hi.
5) Rear main seal? Technically, on an SBC, yes, on the Z? I really don't know if it's a leaker. Replace the pressure plate and friction disc. The throwout comes with the pressure plate.
6) Not yet. I need to do one. But I also need pictures. I did my clutch last year, and I didn't have the time to take pics...
1) Considering your useage, I would stay stock.
2) At 60k, the flywheel is good for another 60k, so at this point, I would reuse it unless it's really worn or hot spotted.
3) No. They might be ok for the track, but the noise they create, the torque they loose and the tricky take up, I would stay away. And I have one. I would never get another. As annoying as the DM is, I think it's a good piece for the street.
If you want to go single mass, use a GM F-Body steel. What I don't know, in reference to the Z, is how much needs to be cut off. For an LT1, you have to cut .090 off, I don't know what the
4) Cheap parts? Call Chris at Superior Chevy, 1.800.728.8267. Tell him you are a forum member and that I said hi.
5) Rear main seal? Technically, on an SBC, yes, on the Z? I really don't know if it's a leaker. Replace the pressure plate and friction disc. The throwout comes with the pressure plate.
6) Not yet. I need to do one. But I also need pictures. I did my clutch last year, and I didn't have the time to take pics...
2. 60K on the clutch, 108K on the car. I have no idea if they did the flywheel, maybe it's on the paperwork.
4. I use Chris all the time!
5. How difficult is R&R that rear seal?
6. I'll be calling you for some pointers
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Call away! Is this the Z or the Ruby?
Also, as mentioned, the DM is pricey, but they can be had MUCH cheaper then Tony is selling it for. Check with Carolina Clutch, and ask for Tom. He can get them for about $600.00. They are OEM. LuK is the only manufacturer of them. Valeo is the only maker of the pressure plate.
The DM CANNOT be turned. Period. There are a lot of reasons, but there is one real good one - internal dimention. If you thin the DM too much, the geometry of the clutch will not be aligned correctly.
Scuffing is ok.
I wonder if the DM was replaced last time? If so, it should be ok, if not, replace it. They won't last much more then 120k.
There is a deflection test, and I don't remember the number, but basically, with the flywheel on the engine, put a bolt into one of the pressure plate holes and try to turn the outer mass. If it deflects more then an inch, it's toast. Use your best judgement. If it's like .5", it might be ok... if it's .8", I would say "bye" to it.
When I replaced my DM, it was the original part. With about 124k on it. It was so bad, I was able to move the mass with my bare hand. Now THAT is toast.
Rear main... If this is the Ruby? A piece of cake. 10 minutes, max. The Z? Never done one. No clue.
Also, as mentioned, the DM is pricey, but they can be had MUCH cheaper then Tony is selling it for. Check with Carolina Clutch, and ask for Tom. He can get them for about $600.00. They are OEM. LuK is the only manufacturer of them. Valeo is the only maker of the pressure plate.
The DM CANNOT be turned. Period. There are a lot of reasons, but there is one real good one - internal dimention. If you thin the DM too much, the geometry of the clutch will not be aligned correctly.
Scuffing is ok.
I wonder if the DM was replaced last time? If so, it should be ok, if not, replace it. They won't last much more then 120k.
There is a deflection test, and I don't remember the number, but basically, with the flywheel on the engine, put a bolt into one of the pressure plate holes and try to turn the outer mass. If it deflects more then an inch, it's toast. Use your best judgement. If it's like .5", it might be ok... if it's .8", I would say "bye" to it.
When I replaced my DM, it was the original part. With about 124k on it. It was so bad, I was able to move the mass with my bare hand. Now THAT is toast.
Rear main... If this is the Ruby? A piece of cake. 10 minutes, max. The Z? Never done one. No clue.
Last edited by bogus; Apr 11, 2005 at 01:47 AM.
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 57,805
Likes: 23
From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
I went with a stock replacement and you know how I drive.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,377
Likes: 21
From: Traverse City MI
zfdoc.com has a write up on removing the transmission and clutch replacement. When I did mine, I went with the stock LUK clutch and OEM pressure plate. I got mine from Kurt White over at White Racing.
If you have to replace the flywheel with another DM, then remember to balance the new flywheel using the procedure in the service manual.
If you have to replace the flywheel with another DM, then remember to balance the new flywheel using the procedure in the service manual.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,377
Likes: 21
From: Traverse City MI
Oh - and get that clutch hose off the heat shield. The vibration will cause it to wear and get a hole in it. That's what happened to me. I used a plastic cable tie to secure it in the clip that holds it in place.
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