Need Some Tips
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 718
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From: W.V.C. Utah
Need Some Tips
I'm going to take my Iroc to the dragstrip in a couple weeks. what are some of the things you guys do before going to race. like where should I set my timing. Are there any secrets I don't know about for L98's. I'd really like to have my car run high 14's and any tips would be great.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
If your IROC is like my '86 IROC it's about 300lbs heavier than my '88 Vette, which means .3sec slower.
If the IROC is stock you may have problems launching, which will result in higher 60' times and so higher ETs.
I did some small bolt on mods to my '86 IROC with a LB9 motor to get it into mid 14s. I also did some chassis mods to aid hook up.
I run my base timing at around 8deg BTDC.
Do a short dry burn out, bring idle up to around 1,000-1,200 rpm (if an A4) and launch it hard.
Just take it to the track and see what it runs.
If the IROC is stock you may have problems launching, which will result in higher 60' times and so higher ETs.
I did some small bolt on mods to my '86 IROC with a LB9 motor to get it into mid 14s. I also did some chassis mods to aid hook up.
I run my base timing at around 8deg BTDC.
Do a short dry burn out, bring idle up to around 1,000-1,200 rpm (if an A4) and launch it hard.
Just take it to the track and see what it runs.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Here's my advice:
If you'll be running brackets, where you dial in your own ET, SHOOT FOR CONSISTENCY.
No matter how quick or fast your car is, consistency is the key to winning.
You'll want to try to do exactly the same thing each run; from burn-out to crossing the stripe. Try to have the engine at the same temp. If you brake torque, use the same RPM; leave when you see the last yellow; if you wait for the green, you'll be late.
Try to get at least two time runs, preferably three before competition begins. Don't change anything or you'll introduce variables that will probably effect consistency.
Try to keep everything the same from one run to the next. For example, if you try lowering tire pressure, you may end up running quicker, causing you to break out.
At the tree, REMAIN RIGIDLY FOCUSED and don't be concerned about the guy in the other lane, just do YOUR THING. Don't be thinking stuff like, "OH, that guy is a LOT faster than me", pretend he's not even there.
Let the trans shift by itself; leave it in drive and let it do the shifting. The removes variable in the equation.
Once you been to the track a few times and become moe confortable you can begin tweaking stuff, but for right now, keep it simple.
Above all, HAVE FUN. That's what it's all about.
Jake
If you'll be running brackets, where you dial in your own ET, SHOOT FOR CONSISTENCY.
No matter how quick or fast your car is, consistency is the key to winning.
You'll want to try to do exactly the same thing each run; from burn-out to crossing the stripe. Try to have the engine at the same temp. If you brake torque, use the same RPM; leave when you see the last yellow; if you wait for the green, you'll be late.
Try to get at least two time runs, preferably three before competition begins. Don't change anything or you'll introduce variables that will probably effect consistency.
Try to keep everything the same from one run to the next. For example, if you try lowering tire pressure, you may end up running quicker, causing you to break out.
At the tree, REMAIN RIGIDLY FOCUSED and don't be concerned about the guy in the other lane, just do YOUR THING. Don't be thinking stuff like, "OH, that guy is a LOT faster than me", pretend he's not even there.
Let the trans shift by itself; leave it in drive and let it do the shifting. The removes variable in the equation.
Once you been to the track a few times and become moe confortable you can begin tweaking stuff, but for right now, keep it simple.
Above all, HAVE FUN. That's what it's all about.
Jake
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: W.V.C. Utah
Originally Posted by 65Z01
If your IROC is like my '86 IROC it's about 300lbs heavier than my '88 Vette, which means .3sec slower.
If the IROC is stock you may have problems launching, which will result in higher 60' times and so higher ETs.
I did some small bolt on mods to my '86 IROC with a LB9 motor to get it into mid 14s. I also did some chassis mods to aid hook up.
I run my base timing at around 8deg BTDC.
Do a short dry burn out, bring idle up to around 1,000-1,200 rpm (if an A4) and launch it hard.
Just take it to the track and see what it runs.
If the IROC is stock you may have problems launching, which will result in higher 60' times and so higher ETs.
I did some small bolt on mods to my '86 IROC with a LB9 motor to get it into mid 14s. I also did some chassis mods to aid hook up.
I run my base timing at around 8deg BTDC.
Do a short dry burn out, bring idle up to around 1,000-1,200 rpm (if an A4) and launch it hard.
Just take it to the track and see what it runs.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by 65Z01
I did some small bolt on mods to my '86 IROC with a LB9 motor to get it into mid 14s.
Originally Posted by JAKE
Try to get at least two time runs, preferably three before competition begins.
Good luck and have fun.
RACE ON!!!
