Need input about Ebay seller
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Cotati CA
Need input about Ebay seller
I saw this listing on Ebay for a 383 stroker kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
If you have a moment, could you look it over and let me know what you think? I have an '89 that I'm going to do a full porting on this summer (plenum, runners, intake and the heads) and have been considering doing a 383 stroker rebuild on. Thanks for any help you can give!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
If you have a moment, could you look it over and let me know what you think? I have an '89 that I'm going to do a full porting on this summer (plenum, runners, intake and the heads) and have been considering doing a 383 stroker rebuild on. Thanks for any help you can give!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,097
Likes: 0
From: High Plains Drifter Fayetteville, AR
First off, I'm not trying to spend your money.
If it were my project, I wouldn't use hypereutectic pistons. One episode of detonation and you'll have a crankcase full of piston. I would go with a forged piston.
The gasket kit is for a 2 piece rear main block. You have a one piece.
You have roller lifters, the kit has flat tappets. So you can't use the lifters or cam he sells you.
The kit doesn't mention much about the rods, other than they are chromoly. I would use forged pieces here as well.
Other than those topics (which are my opinion, except for the gaskets and cam/lifters which you won't be able to use.) the kit is priced well. But I wouldn't use most of those pieces.
If it were my project, I wouldn't use hypereutectic pistons. One episode of detonation and you'll have a crankcase full of piston. I would go with a forged piston.
The gasket kit is for a 2 piece rear main block. You have a one piece.
You have roller lifters, the kit has flat tappets. So you can't use the lifters or cam he sells you.
The kit doesn't mention much about the rods, other than they are chromoly. I would use forged pieces here as well.
Other than those topics (which are my opinion, except for the gaskets and cam/lifters which you won't be able to use.) the kit is priced well. But I wouldn't use most of those pieces.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
I haven't looked up the piston PN, but the CP at the end makes me wonder if they are claimer pistons. If they are I wouldn't use them.
Same with the crank. It says scat nodular, but which series?IMO, by the time you ship it, and balance it, you probably could have bought a brand name rotating assembly. Pioneer stuff is OK, but I wouldn't throw any real power at it. Not trying to be critical, just thinking out loud what I would ask about.
What power level are you looking for? Internal/external balance?
Same with the crank. It says scat nodular, but which series?IMO, by the time you ship it, and balance it, you probably could have bought a brand name rotating assembly. Pioneer stuff is OK, but I wouldn't throw any real power at it. Not trying to be critical, just thinking out loud what I would ask about.
What power level are you looking for? Internal/external balance?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 0
From: GA
I'd pass on the E Bay stuff and look somewhere else like here http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...90&prmenbr=361
Or here for a forged rotating assembly http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...45&prmenbr=361
By from an established company like this, so if problems do arise you aren't left out in the cold.
Or here for a forged rotating assembly http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...45&prmenbr=361
By from an established company like this, so if problems do arise you aren't left out in the cold.
Last edited by Morley; Apr 13, 2005 at 03:54 AM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Bristol CT
Originally Posted by Morley
I'd pass on the E Bay stuff and look somewhere else like here http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...90&prmenbr=361
Or here for a forged rotating assembly http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...45&prmenbr=361
By from an established company like this, so if problems do arise you aren't left out in the cold.
Or here for a forged rotating assembly http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...45&prmenbr=361
By from an established company like this, so if problems do arise you aren't left out in the cold.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,699
Likes: 2
From: The Black Hole LA
I've been looking at this same thing for a while and take your time and look around. You can buy the same stuff this guy is selling for less and better stuff (ie forged pistons instead) for the same price. Sometimes piecing it together is cheaper than buying a kit as well. Just get a list of all the parts you need for your application and then start looking, but take your time and do your homework. I buy on ebay all the time, it sometimes takes weeks to find something in the price range I want.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Cotati CA
Originally Posted by hz900
I've been looking at this same thing for a while and take your time and look around. You can buy the same stuff this guy is selling for less and better stuff (ie forged pistons instead) for the same price. Sometimes piecing it together is cheaper than buying a kit as well. Just get a list of all the parts you need for your application and then start looking, but take your time and do your homework. I buy on ebay all the time, it sometimes takes weeks to find something in the price range I want.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte North Carolina
Don't be penny wise and pound foolish as some other replys have hinted.
The good stuff begins with a reputable builder, a "turn key" shop. "Turn key" keeps you with one supplier of services, parts, machine work, assembly, install, and tuning to deal with and resolve problems that might arise.
I tried the cheap way once and got pointing fingers with no resolution. A 383 that used a quart of oil every 400 miles, blown head gasket at 10,000 miles. The end retailer blamed the machine shop for poor work; machining and assembly of the short block. The short block guy blamed the end retailer for poor tuning, incorrect selection of cam, heads, etc. The end retailer also did not install a new radiator ($150) that I paid for, did not port the heads that I paid for ($500.00), did not install Comp Pro Mag rockers that I paid for, did not install brand new injectors that I paid for, etc.
I've said nothing about the vendor on Ebay, don't know him. Just giving advice on my experience.
The cheap engine lasted 15,000 miles, all highway; no racing.
The more expensive engine has 35,000 miles on it with no problems outside the usual maintenance, sensor failures, etc.
The good stuff begins with a reputable builder, a "turn key" shop. "Turn key" keeps you with one supplier of services, parts, machine work, assembly, install, and tuning to deal with and resolve problems that might arise.
I tried the cheap way once and got pointing fingers with no resolution. A 383 that used a quart of oil every 400 miles, blown head gasket at 10,000 miles. The end retailer blamed the machine shop for poor work; machining and assembly of the short block. The short block guy blamed the end retailer for poor tuning, incorrect selection of cam, heads, etc. The end retailer also did not install a new radiator ($150) that I paid for, did not port the heads that I paid for ($500.00), did not install Comp Pro Mag rockers that I paid for, did not install brand new injectors that I paid for, etc.
I've said nothing about the vendor on Ebay, don't know him. Just giving advice on my experience.
The cheap engine lasted 15,000 miles, all highway; no racing.
The more expensive engine has 35,000 miles on it with no problems outside the usual maintenance, sensor failures, etc.
