What is proper water pump cleaning and opti-spark cleaning.
04-29-2005, 12:06 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
What is proper water pump cleaning and opti-spark cleaning.
1992 vette, A/T, LT1
I am working on my engine right now. I want to reuse my water pump and reuse my opti-spark after I modify it.
What is the proper way to clean the water pump without damaging it?
What is the proper way to re-lubricate the water pump without damaging it?
What is the proper way to clean the opt-spark internal components without damaging it?
What is the proper way to re-lubricate the opt-spark without damaging it?
What chemicals can I use?
I am working on my engine right now. I want to reuse my water pump and reuse my opti-spark after I modify it.
What is the proper way to clean the water pump without damaging it?
What is the proper way to re-lubricate the water pump without damaging it?
What is the proper way to clean the opt-spark internal components without damaging it?
What is the proper way to re-lubricate the opt-spark without damaging it?
What chemicals can I use?
Last edited by Reggied; 04-29-2005 at 12:08 AM.
04-29-2005, 02:55 AM
#2
Team Owner
why are you taking it all apart if it ain't broke?
How many miles are on those parts right now?
As for both parts, to the best of my knowledge, there are no user serviceable parts, ie, no oiling is doable. I might be wrong, so I will defer to others.
back to miles... if you are ~60k, and those parts are original, I would consider replacing them.
If you need to clean, then use some brake cleaner or simple green on the outside of the pump, very carefully. as for the opti, I would use some simple green and a rag... removing the goo as you go.
How many miles are on those parts right now?
As for both parts, to the best of my knowledge, there are no user serviceable parts, ie, no oiling is doable. I might be wrong, so I will defer to others.
back to miles... if you are ~60k, and those parts are original, I would consider replacing them.
If you need to clean, then use some brake cleaner or simple green on the outside of the pump, very carefully. as for the opti, I would use some simple green and a rag... removing the goo as you go.
04-29-2005, 07:28 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Looks too good to replace, maintenance may be all I need
I purchased the car with 115,000 miles on it. Upon removing the Water pump I noticed the mounting screws looked as if glue was on the threads from applying glue to the gaskets which leads me to believe the water pump has been replaced in the past. The pump looks pretty good. I still cleaned it with Simple Green. I am going to add a plug and hose to the bottom of the pump so if it leaks, the anti-freeze will be diverted pass the Opti-spark to the ground.
The Opti-spark looks good too. The bearings portion from the outside looks functional and not loose. I want to look inside the unit to make sure there is no carbon build-up. I will clean out any foreign material with contact cleaner. Then I will add the opti-spark mod.
I would rather try to save what I have now by cleaning it up than trashing it to spending $600.00. I just spent $235 (Harmonic balance), $230 (radiator), $60 ( Opti-kit, gaskets, etc.) My wife is going to kill me.
I will love pointers on have to properly inspect the inside of my opti-spark unit.
The Opti-spark looks good too. The bearings portion from the outside looks functional and not loose. I want to look inside the unit to make sure there is no carbon build-up. I will clean out any foreign material with contact cleaner. Then I will add the opti-spark mod.
I would rather try to save what I have now by cleaning it up than trashing it to spending $600.00. I just spent $235 (Harmonic balance), $230 (radiator), $60 ( Opti-kit, gaskets, etc.) My wife is going to kill me.
I will love pointers on have to properly inspect the inside of my opti-spark unit.
04-29-2005, 08:52 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
There is not a lot you can do inside the unit unless it has coolant in it. The carbon tracing you hear about occurs on the plastic plate under the rotor I would guess it can be wiped off with a cloth and electric cleaner. Even after a short time of use(1 hr) the rotor will show wear on the tip but look at the cap and all the posts sould look relatively the same if they do not (one white the rest black or something like that) it may mean a bad plug or wire. If I were you (and was) I would at least replace the cap and rotor since you are in there. You need an E4 torx socket and an E8 driver to remove the cover and rotor they are hard to find especially the socket. Wiggle the shaft on the opti it should have no play in it if it does it is a sign of the bearing/bushing wearing out.When you put it back togther make sure to use some permatex high temp rtv to seal the cap and around the plug VERY well as the seals on the opti get hard and crack. And better start planning your funeral now nothing is cheap on these cars and the wife ain't gonna like it when bill comes in. JK :-)
Oh and the WP if you spin the shaft and feel and type of roughness replace it now. It should spin very smoothly. Standard advice is replace the pump everytime you take it off. It is a weak link and you already know about the drain hose at the weep hole that is added insurance against dousing the opti. I just put a Dynaspark opti in mine and it is really nice ,although pricey, it as bullet proof as you can get.
Oh and the WP if you spin the shaft and feel and type of roughness replace it now. It should spin very smoothly. Standard advice is replace the pump everytime you take it off. It is a weak link and you already know about the drain hose at the weep hole that is added insurance against dousing the opti. I just put a Dynaspark opti in mine and it is really nice ,although pricey, it as bullet proof as you can get.
Last edited by Redeasysport; 04-29-2005 at 09:04 PM.
04-30-2005, 02:52 AM
#6
Safety Car
Here is your opti crap all you wanted to know!
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/foru...ad.php?t=33844
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/foru...ad.php?t=33844
05-01-2005, 01:08 AM
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Dynaspark means no more Opti-spark problems
Redeasysport
Do you have to add the vent mod to your new Dynaspark opti-spark?
I looked at the link and noticed it has the main vent in the plastic section of the unit. I did not see a vent line in the metal section. The unit cost $599.00. If I purchased this unit will I need to add a vent line to the metal section?
( Add vent to the three holes in the metal section)
Do you have to add the vent mod to your new Dynaspark opti-spark?
I looked at the link and noticed it has the main vent in the plastic section of the unit. I did not see a vent line in the metal section. The unit cost $599.00. If I purchased this unit will I need to add a vent line to the metal section?
( Add vent to the three holes in the metal section)
Last edited by Reggied; 05-01-2005 at 01:14 AM.
05-01-2005, 07:20 PM
#8
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
One vent hose comes from the cap the other comes from on topp of the metal case for cross venting it comes ready to go with 2 hoses.It comes with the hoses AND clips to hold them. It also comes with a tee I just cut a little piece of hose put the Tee in and conected that side. The other side you poke a hole into the intake rubber and stick it in viola done. They scariest part was removing the old Opti harness from the plug( You have to remove it) but it comes with a tool to do it with and was pretty easy ,except the hold on clip broke from age. I just used some 3M electrical tape to wrap it up. The Dynaspark wires click into the plug and reconect it and the wiring is done.All told it took about 2hrs to reinstall the balancer,Dynaspark,Waterpump and connect everything.Just take your time and go step by step.The dynaspark comes with an excellent set of instructions. They tell you to check a bunch of tolerances on play of the shaft and such in the beginning I just skipped that part as I did not want to know.You will need to take the shaft out of your old opti and plug it in to find the approx. angle of the "Key" on it to align the Dynaspark shaft to it so it "Pops" on in the right orientation. Do not force it it should slide easily on if it is lined up right. Also make sure you use some masking tape and mark the pulg #'s on each wire when you get it installed use you old cap to plug the right wires in the right place. Hope this helps all in all it was not hard to do I cliped the vent harness to the throttle plate on the top edge. The car is in the shop for paint right now or I would take a pic. Good luck if you go that route.
PS
One last thing is to start your car after the Opti is replaced to make sure that it is installed right. It will not hurt your car to run it with no coolant running for a few seconds and it saves a lot of hassle if the opti is in wrong( Hard to do but my ex mechanic did it)
PS
One last thing is to start your car after the Opti is replaced to make sure that it is installed right. It will not hurt your car to run it with no coolant running for a few seconds and it saves a lot of hassle if the opti is in wrong( Hard to do but my ex mechanic did it)
Last edited by Redeasysport; 05-01-2005 at 07:29 PM.
05-01-2005, 11:20 PM
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Troubleshooting an Opti-spark.
I wanted to use my old Opti-spark by cleaning it up and adding the two vent hoses. I took my time and everything looked OK. I tried to start the car and it no longer works.
The gear that plugs into the back of the Opt-spack is keyed. The gear can only be pluged in ONE way only. I numbered the wires to ensure I plugged them up the same. What troubleshooting can I do before I trash this opti-spark and buy a new one.
a) Is there a wrong way to insert the keyed shaft in the engine and opti-spark? (180 deg out-of-phase?)
b) Upon cranking, By inserting a screwdriver in the spark plug wire leading from the ignition coil, I should see a spark from wire to car chassic? ( Is this correct?)
c) Upon cranking, By inserting a screwdriver in the spark plug wire leading from one of the spark plug output on the opti-spark I should see a spark from any spark plug wire to car chassic? ( Is this correct?)
What quick test can I preform to see if opti-spark is functioning?
The gear that plugs into the back of the Opt-spack is keyed. The gear can only be pluged in ONE way only. I numbered the wires to ensure I plugged them up the same. What troubleshooting can I do before I trash this opti-spark and buy a new one.
a) Is there a wrong way to insert the keyed shaft in the engine and opti-spark? (180 deg out-of-phase?)
b) Upon cranking, By inserting a screwdriver in the spark plug wire leading from the ignition coil, I should see a spark from wire to car chassic? ( Is this correct?)
c) Upon cranking, By inserting a screwdriver in the spark plug wire leading from one of the spark plug output on the opti-spark I should see a spark from any spark plug wire to car chassic? ( Is this correct?)
What quick test can I preform to see if opti-spark is functioning?
05-02-2005, 12:27 AM
#10
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Sorry no quick check hope you did not install the water pump yet.
It is possible to put it in the wrong way believe it or not. I got a spark but no fire when my mechanic installed it wrong. Looking from the front of the engine if the ridge of the hub is at 12 o'clock(TDC on #1) the rotor inside the opti should be around 7 o'clock.You should be able to pull the cap because with the ridge at 12 the hub is in position to let the cap come off. When my ex mechanic took it off the first time it was around 11 o'clock.The bad news is it is possible to damage the opti if it IS installed wrong not sure what inside but mine was new and after getting installed right it ran until oil got in it from the bad WP seal install.
Just remember when it is installed right it will slide in very easily and sorta slam against the timing cover with a loud slap.
You should be able to remove the shaft from the opti to try slipping it in the timing cover the right way. Observe where the key is located when you slide it in and out and when you put it back in the opti turn it and align it where it should be. Remember to oil the shaft and seals while doing this to avoid ripping them.If you remove the cap and do no see the rotor tip at around 7 pull the opti off an turn the rotor till it is and try putting it back. Good luck. If you want to call me PM me and I will give you my cell #
It is possible to put it in the wrong way believe it or not. I got a spark but no fire when my mechanic installed it wrong. Looking from the front of the engine if the ridge of the hub is at 12 o'clock(TDC on #1) the rotor inside the opti should be around 7 o'clock.You should be able to pull the cap because with the ridge at 12 the hub is in position to let the cap come off. When my ex mechanic took it off the first time it was around 11 o'clock.The bad news is it is possible to damage the opti if it IS installed wrong not sure what inside but mine was new and after getting installed right it ran until oil got in it from the bad WP seal install.
Just remember when it is installed right it will slide in very easily and sorta slam against the timing cover with a loud slap.
You should be able to remove the shaft from the opti to try slipping it in the timing cover the right way. Observe where the key is located when you slide it in and out and when you put it back in the opti turn it and align it where it should be. Remember to oil the shaft and seals while doing this to avoid ripping them.If you remove the cap and do no see the rotor tip at around 7 pull the opti off an turn the rotor till it is and try putting it back. Good luck. If you want to call me PM me and I will give you my cell #
Last edited by Redeasysport; 05-02-2005 at 12:56 AM.
05-02-2005, 07:57 AM
#11
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The dynaspark comes with an excellent set of instructions. They tell you to check a bunch of tolerances on play of the shaft and such in the beginning I just skipped that part as I did not want to know.
From our experience, it's those very tolerances that are the cause for multiple distributor failures when they are out of spec. range and it's VERY easy to check them against our provided proper specs. when the distibutor is already removed from the engine.
As stated in the instructions, we STRONGLY suggest that ALL of our installation instructions be followed when installing our products, not just *some* of them. It only benefits the end user in the long run to do just that and cutting corners now has the possibility of becoming an expensive mistake later....
DTE
05-02-2005, 10:59 AM
#12
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
Why would you skip such a necessary and vital portion of the installation process that is put there for your (and your new distributor's) benefit??? Especially on a very high mileage engine such as yours that would be an even bigger candidate for such clearance checks??
From our experience, it's those very tolerances that are the cause for multiple distributor failures when they are out of spec. range and it's VERY easy to check them against our provided proper specs. when the distibutor is already removed from the engine.
As stated in the instructions, we STRONGLY suggest that ALL of our installation instructions be followed when installing our products, not just *some* of them. It only benefits the end user in the long run to do just that and cutting corners now has the possibility of becoming an expensive mistake later....
DTE
From our experience, it's those very tolerances that are the cause for multiple distributor failures when they are out of spec. range and it's VERY easy to check them against our provided proper specs. when the distibutor is already removed from the engine.
As stated in the instructions, we STRONGLY suggest that ALL of our installation instructions be followed when installing our products, not just *some* of them. It only benefits the end user in the long run to do just that and cutting corners now has the possibility of becoming an expensive mistake later....
DTE
Second my previous Opti worked just fine and has for quite sometime
Third if they are not close to being in spec the amount of cost to me is an engine rebuild as if the front has to come off to repair the gears it is going to the shop. Yes I am taking a chance(Slight) but I can live with it. The Dynaspark works just fine and I hope it will continue that way.I do not have the time or money to repair every possible problem with this engine and it will live as long as it wants to.When it dies it will be getting a full rebuild.
05-02-2005, 08:20 PM
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Should I be worried about something
I agree with Redeasysport. I hope the test you are refering to is not a lot of work with equipment I do not have. As stated on your website this unit is a direct replacement. I bit the bullet and ordered my unit today for $613.00. I should get it next week.
If Dynotech have a lot of specs and tol. that needs to be address before I can install their unit then I am worry too. Do I now need to put my car in the shop to pay more $$$ to make engine changes just to install this unit. I am not racing the car. I just want to drive it for summer fun.
$235 Harmonic Balance,
$22 160deg thermostat,
$209 Radiator
$180 Water Pump
$613 Opti-Spark
$80 others
My vette back on road "Priceless"
If Dynotech have a lot of specs and tol. that needs to be address before I can install their unit then I am worry too. Do I now need to put my car in the shop to pay more $$$ to make engine changes just to install this unit. I am not racing the car. I just want to drive it for summer fun.
$235 Harmonic Balance,
$22 160deg thermostat,
$209 Radiator
$180 Water Pump
$613 Opti-Spark
$80 others
My vette back on road "Priceless"
05-02-2005, 08:52 PM
#14
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As stated here and on our website- our product is a direct replacement and always has been, but one should ALWAYS check for any fitment issues with your given powertrain/engine combination before ANY other additional components are ever installed, especially if your current engine combination is not stock. We provide you with these specs for your benefit so you can easily identify if your engine has an underlying mechanical tolerance problem from either heavily worn parts from mileage or of improper stacked tolerances of aftermarket parts that you would not be aware of if you didn't have the proper specs to compare to. You wouldn't install a crankshaft, a set of pistons, or a camshaft into an engine without first checking their fitment specs for proper operation would you?????? This product, or any other like it- is no different.
With all due respect- If one chooses to ignore these fitment/tolerance specs when installing the Dynaspark to verify proper condition/fitment of aftermarket performance products, than that's certainly their perogotive, but don't be surprised if our product (or any other HP add-on product for that matter) fails pre-maturely due to the negligence of the installer if indeed an underlying problem exists. Ignoring the proper installation instructions doesn't make a possible underlying problem with any type of engine go away. We've seen it many times before and the choice is ultimately yours....
Those specs are provided for you for your benefit folks...........
DTE
With all due respect- If one chooses to ignore these fitment/tolerance specs when installing the Dynaspark to verify proper condition/fitment of aftermarket performance products, than that's certainly their perogotive, but don't be surprised if our product (or any other HP add-on product for that matter) fails pre-maturely due to the negligence of the installer if indeed an underlying problem exists. Ignoring the proper installation instructions doesn't make a possible underlying problem with any type of engine go away. We've seen it many times before and the choice is ultimately yours....
Those specs are provided for you for your benefit folks...........
DTE
Last edited by DTE Powertrain; 05-02-2005 at 08:55 PM.
05-03-2005, 07:57 AM
#17
Race Director
Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
Just a simple dial caliper of some sort that you can find at any local Sears for $10-$20 if you don't have one already.
05-08-2005, 11:11 PM
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
Back in business
I am back on the road again.
I changed everything...
Did it myself...Took me three weeks (Waiting for Parts).
1) Water pump
2) Harmonic Balance
3) Thermostat 160deg
4) Radiator
5) New Opti-Spark "DynaSpark"
6) Front and rear Brake shoes
7) Fuel Filter
I changed everything...
Did it myself...Took me three weeks (Waiting for Parts).
1) Water pump
2) Harmonic Balance
3) Thermostat 160deg
4) Radiator
5) New Opti-Spark "DynaSpark"
6) Front and rear Brake shoes
7) Fuel Filter
05-09-2005, 11:16 AM
#19
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Congrats glad your up and running. I am sure it will run much better and for a long time. All of those things except for the balancer are pretty much normal maintenance at 100k at least.I bet it runs smoother with the new balancer though yours was toast and should have caused some additional vibration in the engine. A 160 stat is not going to do much for you these engines run best at 200deg-225deg they are not like the old SBC engines that cooler was better.There is nothing like the feeling you get when you do a sucessful repair on these cars.
Last edited by Redeasysport; 05-09-2005 at 11:18 AM.
