A buddy of mine has a t56 out of a 98 or 99 trans am w/6800 miles on it.I can have the tranny and the bell housing for 800.00.Is it worth it and how hard to put it in.

 

I don't think your stock C-Beam is going to work with the T56. If I am correct you will need to fabricate a cross member for the transmission and some sort of support for the rear end.

 

aboatguy is right. The C-beam will not work.

 

It wont work on your 85. You'll need one from an LT1 car. The bellhousing will bolt right up to the block. Centerforce has a nice clutch assy.

 

For any hope of this working you would need a T56 out of a 97 and older F body. I think the LS1 started in 98 for those cars.

 

WRONG - I am going to use a ls1 t56. All you need is a spacer plate to make the longer shaft work with the gen I/II setup. I'm going to put mine behind a motor from the 70's!

 

Since the one-piece rear seal engines are external balanced by the flywheel/flexplate, I wonder what will happen when the flexplate is swapped for a flywheel.

Tom Piper

 

If it is a 350 it should be, what gm considers, a nuetrally balanced engine.

The only external traditional gm engine that I know of was the 454 and the 400 and that was to increase the counter weight for the large stroke.

Yes, the t56 works you have to adapt the C-beam and shorten the driveshaft. Small things like have a hydraulic line made for mating the slave and master cylinder and very little needs to be done to clearance where the shifter goes through the floor.

 

I installed a t-56 in my 86 about a year and a half ago and couldnt be happier. Theres a bit of easy fabrication to do and most important a bracket to mate the c-beam to the tranny. It took me awhile to figure it out but it was worth it. If you want to know more e-mail me ---eightysix@comcast.net By the way Im running a 383 stroker with lots of ponies and have done my share of burnouts with --0-- problems. 800.00 for the tranny is not a bad deal if you get the bell housing clutch and slave cyl. Mine came out of a 96 camaro

 

This:
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The latest GM small-block, the LS1, and its predecessor, the LT1, are using a mix of both ideas. The front of the crankshaft is neutral, but weights are still added to the flywheel or flexplate to provide final balancing. When choosing a crankshaft to build upon, don't make any final decisions or purchases until you're sure about the rest of your reciprocating assembly. If you spend the extra cash for a lightweight crankshaft, then realize that your heavy H-beam rods and thick-deck nitrous pistons will force you to drop an additional $300 to your machinist to balance the assembly, you're not getting it right. Machinists add heavy Mallory metal to the counterweights of a crank to achieve the correct balance. This is what we're trying to avoid, and if you plan to run lightweight goodies ahead of time, you can reap the benefits and save the additional machining costs. A little research is all that's required.

All stroker cranks and serious aftermarket units are internally balanced. The manufacturers have done their homework and can recommend a good rod-and-piston combination that will keep you out of the Mallory metal and be strong enough for your chosen application. You want to get the lightest crankshaft that can support your target horsepower range, and that shouldn't be hard for a street-bound car. For instance, the SCAT "Superlight" crank we eluded to earlier has a 1,700-gram bob weight, and can be teamed with their 4340 forged I-beam rods (that weigh 600-grams each) and SRP Ultralight pistons to easily support 600 hp. This flyweight combination would rev quite freely, and a very lightweight balancer (like those offered by ATI or BHJ) is all that would be required to control harmonics. This is only one example, but if you're looking to step up to a more serious combination, we'd recommend touching base with a crank manufacturer and getting their recommendation based on your overall package and performance goals.

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is from:

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng.../0305EM_crank/


and, here is an interesting thread (make sure you read to the end):

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...0&page=1&pp=15

Tom Piper