I have finally decided to get a set of Hooker Super Comp. headers coated with the EGR hook up from Summit.

1. Other than the obvious removal and install of the old with the new what else do I need to complete this job?
2. What kind of gains will I see?
3. How many Band-Aids will I need?


'89 Coupe, Auto, all stock except for open lid, K&N, modded MAF, tpi foil, Muff. Elems.

As always advise is apreciated

Thanks Fellas

 

Good choice I think, I love my Hookers.

#1. See my install of these exact Headers at these two threads.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=986666
And
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+night+hookers

#2 About 18+ RWHP give or take depending on other mods.

#3 About two boxes and dont forget about two 24 packs of your favorite brew.

Hope this helps
Have fun

 

What about the O2 are there holes already in the Headers or will I have to drill?

 

Well after reviewing the first link I gave you I see that for some reason page one has dissapeared. I think there was a pic of the 02 sensor. That sucks because there was some useful pics and info there.

To answer your question, Yes. The o2 bung is already there and threaded and ready to go.

 

You will see a solid 20 HP gain with the Hooker headers.
They are relatively easy to install. It took me about 12 hours for the complete job on jackstands.

I do recommend a good cat-back exhaust to complement the headers.

Vic

 

Dude,
I have those headers. My suggestions, get them uncoated and send em to Jet Hot. The coating is really crappy, mine is bubbling off. If you don't need the Emissions hookups, get the set without. The egr tubes make the corners of the motor a real pain to get to. I got the Y pipe too, highly suggested, yet the muffler shop still had to tweak it a bit. As for the O2 sensor. On the Hookers it does have a bung, but it is on cylinder 7 tube so you will only read 1 cylinder. I have installed a heated O2 in mine at the junction of the Y pipe and just had a bung put in the collector of the header for WB monitoring.

My .02

Doug

 

If you buy the 2149s, they will have all the AIR, EGR, and O2 hookups. Expect at least 15hp from the addition of longtube headers and Ypipe. 20 is pushing it but is possible. These come coated already, so changing things like bung placement are a bitch.

2151s, you may need to install O2 bung and get the EGR hookups set up before sending to be ceramic coated, you wont want to install that stuff afterwards. I forget whether 2151 has the bung already, but you may want to move it down the pipe. Its up to you.

A heated O2 is not strictly necessary, most people dont run into problems with the O2 in the #7, but if you move the bung down the pipe, then you may need one.

I would then add a Random Tech or Car-sound cat, and a decent catback, 2.5-2.75" should be good. Only difference is sound so pick what you like.

 

2149's, that is what I have then as I have all of the fittings. Any idea of their policy on the coating? I just emailed tech support, we'll see what they say...didn't meant to hijack!



Doug

 

Hey KEVS L98,
I should have been more thorough last night but was bouncing around in too many threads to focus on one.

Since most of the first link I gave you of my install back in January has disappeared with the pics and things I ran into here's my tips. I just PM'd this to someone who had an intallation question so I decided to copy it and move it over here as well.

The best tips I have is to hang the drivers side header and start the bolts but dont tighten them yet. Then go ahead and drop your starter and the heat sheild for fuel filter and start the first bolt The hard to reach one near #8 put it through the gasket and let the gasket hang while you feed the header up into place. The header flange is slotted because they know that once you have the header in place there's no way your getting your hand in there to start that bolt. So start it first then work the header into place and slip the notched bolt hole in flange over that first bolt you started. Then lift the gasket up at other end and start that bolt then start all the other bolts but dont tighten them yet. If you still have the AC compressor you can do this without removing it if you remove the center panel of the wheel well skirting. Doing this makes access through out the whole job easier, even removal of stock manifold (this really should be one of the first things you do). Now you have both headers mounted and bolts started but not tightened. This gives you a tad of play needed to properly align the collectors and Y pipe. Now mount the Y pipe and start all the collector bolts but dont tighten them.
Now go back and tighten the header bolts. The dreaded #8 may require a cut wrench and it can be a ****! Now that the headers are tight tighten the collector bolts and cat bolts. Now hook up all the EGR (if 2149) and reinstall fuel filter heat shield and the starter and your done.

Hope this helps,
Dave

 

I agree.. the coating from Summit is horrible at best and if you can get by w/o the EGR, don't bothers.

 

For the money and headache without other mods, waste of time/money in my opinon.

 

After you install the headers and drive the car, re-tighten the header bolds after it cools down. You may have exhaust leaks after the initial install. I have to occassionally tightened header bolts due to the afftects and cooling.

 

yes I love the installed bungs in hookers

 

I just installed hooker 2149 with emission stuff, heated O2 and
hooker y pipe, after installed for few minutes it becomes so hot
that turn red but i did not see anything after that.

I dont know how much HP gain but sure whole sound power
changed very crisp and solid muscle sound,
mine is cam/head modded car so may be i feel the difference.

For the pictures shoot me an email sami7241969 yahoo
i have one pic of O2 bung too.

Good luck and highly recommend.