Calling all McLeod Street Twin users!!!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,012
Likes: 5
From: OKC OK
Calling all McLeod Street Twin users!!!
I'm thinking about getting one and have some questions.
Which flywheel did you get?
How bad was the noise?
Did you break any driveline parts after using it?
What tires were you using when the breakage occured?
Would you recommend it?
Thanks
Which flywheel did you get?
How bad was the noise?
Did you break any driveline parts after using it?
What tires were you using when the breakage occured?
Would you recommend it?
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by LT4POWR
I'm thinking about getting one and have some questions.
Which flywheel did you get?
How bad was the noise?
Did you break any driveline parts after using it?
What tires were you using when the breakage occured?
Would you recommend it?
Thanks
Which flywheel did you get?
How bad was the noise?
Did you break any driveline parts after using it?
What tires were you using when the breakage occured?
Would you recommend it?
Thanks
The noise is very minor... once you're moving it's unnoticeable.
No driveline parts broken yet but I don't drag race
It's tough to launch with a manual but I have no complaints. Running at Sebring for the first time with it next weekend.
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,108
Likes: 126
From: S.L.C. UT
I'm running a street twin with the aluminum flywheel in mine. I run ET Streets full time. Mine idles a little high, about 1100 rpm, that and it's kind of loud, so I can't really hear the flywheel make noise. But I can tell you that I never broke parts with a single disc. And after I put in the dual disc... I broke 3 halfshafts, a U joint, and broke a D44 housing in half.
I don't think I will break anymore parts now
I don't think I will break anymore parts now
Last edited by tpi 421 vette; May 7, 2005 at 10:40 AM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 440
Likes: 6
From: aumsville oregon
I am also running the street twin with the aluminum flywheel and run the ET streets most of the time. Mine does make quit a bit of noise at idle but its worth it becuase none of the other clutches have lasted very long. I also have broken two half shafts, a spindal, And tore the D44 in half the first time at the drag strip. I have learned how to launch now with this clutch and its working great.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,012
Likes: 5
From: OKC OK
You guys have me a little worried about breaking driveline parts...I guess the rumors are true. I was thinking that I shouldn't break anything as long as I run my old bald/hard street radials 
What do you guys think? Right now I'm leaning toward the aluminum flywheel. Any others out there?
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 0
From: Brandywine, Chester and Ridley Valleys Pennsylvania
Never had a breakage problem, running BFG drag radials, current setup nearly 500 chp, prior to that a 675 chp setup. I'm running a steel flywheel.
Great clutch, though I know sometimes it's possible to shock the driveline with an inadvertent full release, it can be a bit grabby until you get the feel of it.
Great clutch, though I know sometimes it's possible to shock the driveline with an inadvertent full release, it can be a bit grabby until you get the feel of it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,019
Likes: 568
From: Conroe Texas
was running the aluminum flywheel with the twin disk setup, with m&h's. took out both half shafts and a spindle, but thats a problem with sticky tires, not the clutch. the clutch let everything hook up without slipping. i've taken mine out of the car as i went back to stock and cannot run the aluminum flywheel in this class, and its for sale.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Dallas Texas
I have the aluminum flywheel with my Twin. Noise is pretty bad, but my c-beam was loose, so now that it is tightened back up it won't be so bad. No broken parts yet, but I also don't dump the clutch with my little D36.
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 2
From: Little Rock Arkansas
SEVERAL Street Twin here... I've used George and Red's twins for a long time on several different cars and always had great luck with them. My 9.91 was with a Street Twin. I've used both steel and aluminum flywheels; I prefer the aluminum because most of the motors I run are N2O or big strokers (or both) and they DON'T NEED the moment of inertia that the steel flywheel will give. They are also easier on driveline's IMO. I've always had stellar luck with my driveline (even before the cryo-business) except for drive spindles, they were the only thing I routinely broke. I ran 28x11.5x15 ET Streets and 28x10.5x15 ET Drags; and left at 5500-6000 rpm. The harder I hit the tires the less things got broken...
-Jeb
-Jeb
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,012
Likes: 5
From: OKC OK
Originally Posted by jburnett
SEVERAL Street Twin here... I've used George and Red's twins for a long time on several different cars and always had great luck with them. My 9.91 was with a Street Twin. I've used both steel and aluminum flywheels; I prefer the aluminum because most of the motors I run are N2O or big strokers (or both) and they DON'T NEED the moment of inertia that the steel flywheel will give. They are also easier on driveline's IMO. I've always had stellar luck with my driveline (even before the cryo-business) except for drive spindles, they were the only thing I routinely broke. I ran 28x11.5x15 ET Streets and 28x10.5x15 ET Drags; and left at 5500-6000 rpm. The harder I hit the tires the less things got broken...
-Jeb
-Jeb
Are these good prices?
Part #64023-1A-07 Stl. Fly. - $1079.00 Shipped
Part #63023-1A-07 Alu. Fly. - $ 1219.00 Shipped
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by LT4POWR
Are these good prices?
Part #64023-1A-07 Stl. Fly. - $1079.00 Shipped
Part #63023-1A-07 Alu. Fly. - $ 1219.00 Shipped
Part #64023-1A-07 Stl. Fly. - $1079.00 Shipped
Part #63023-1A-07 Alu. Fly. - $ 1219.00 Shipped
Mike
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 2
From: Little Rock Arkansas
That seems about right for pricing... You can find the aluminum setups between $1100 and $1200 usually with the steel ones coming in under $1k occasionally. I usually buy my mine directly from McLeod.
I'll be here to answer your questions, LT4POWR; just email me or PM me whenever you'd like.
-Jeb
I'll be here to answer your questions, LT4POWR; just email me or PM me whenever you'd like.
-Jeb
Racer
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Lufkin tx
I ran the "race twin" setup for a couple of years. It is similar to the street twin, but each of the clutch disks has one side kevlar and the other is organic(factory style). It also uses the Borg and Beck "push" pressure plate with a hydraulic throw out bearing bolted to the tranny. It was a little noisy at idle, but never slipped even with 833rwhp. Ran some easy launching (1.55 60') 9.8's with this setup.
The only thing I ever broke was the clutch itself, as it stripped the organic facings off both clutch disks, and a half shaft on a 1-2 shift. I found out that if I would preload the driveline before launch, I could avoid breakage.
I now run an automatic
The only thing I ever broke was the clutch itself, as it stripped the organic facings off both clutch disks, and a half shaft on a 1-2 shift. I found out that if I would preload the driveline before launch, I could avoid breakage.
I now run an automatic
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,012
Likes: 5
From: OKC OK
Originally Posted by 91tpi-zf
I found out that if I would preload the driveline before launch, I could avoid breakage.
How'd you go about doing that?I’m basically looking for a street/strip clutch that will handle around 425-450rwhp....there also might be a small N2O shot or stroker motor in the future. I plan to run drag radials on the street and slicks on the strip. Unless I can develop a better method, I need something that will take high rpm clutch drops at the strip. I think I should probably plan on upgrading the driveline before I try slicks at the track.
