Oil Pan Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Snatch BC
Oil Pan Question
I have a 86 Vette, I hit rock bottom on a speed bump the other day and now have a small crack in my oil pan. I am wondering if anyone out there has had this problem and if so would it be safe for me to simply have the crack welded while the pan is still on the car ?
Thanks
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
If it was me I would replace it with at least a good used one from a Corvette salvage yard or something. New ones are a couple hundred dollars.
I've pulled the pan off my 86. It's pretty straight forward. Get the front of the car up high enough for you to be able to slide under. After the starter and the flywheel cover is off, all that is left to move out of the way is those two frame braces that run diagonally and meet at the front of the pan, otherwise the front of the pan cannot go down enough to clear the crank. You'll know which ones when you look under the car. Then it's just a matter of removing the oil pan bolts and pulling if off. I did not even have to rotate the crankshaft throws to clear the front of the pan. There was plenty of room once the braces where off.
If you do pull the pan, use the Fel-Pro one peice oil pan gasket and some Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant at the corners. Mine has not leaked a single drop of oil in about 2 years.
I've pulled the pan off my 86. It's pretty straight forward. Get the front of the car up high enough for you to be able to slide under. After the starter and the flywheel cover is off, all that is left to move out of the way is those two frame braces that run diagonally and meet at the front of the pan, otherwise the front of the pan cannot go down enough to clear the crank. You'll know which ones when you look under the car. Then it's just a matter of removing the oil pan bolts and pulling if off. I did not even have to rotate the crankshaft throws to clear the front of the pan. There was plenty of room once the braces where off.
If you do pull the pan, use the Fel-Pro one peice oil pan gasket and some Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant at the corners. Mine has not leaked a single drop of oil in about 2 years.
Last edited by 86PACER; May 8, 2005 at 04:49 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie MD
FWIW, I've dropped the pan on my 86 several times without having to remove any pieces of bracing or frame.
You can get a pan off eBay for $25 or less and a mechanic can replace it in less than an hour so don't bother getting it welded...
I had one lying around off my 86 that I sold recently; wish I still had it for you.
[RICHR]
You can get a pan off eBay for $25 or less and a mechanic can replace it in less than an hour so don't bother getting it welded...
I had one lying around off my 86 that I sold recently; wish I still had it for you.
[RICHR]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Good point you brought up.
Yes, some guys are able to drop the pan without removing the braces, but some had to. I tried, but there was no way mine would come off without removing the braces. Not sure why that is though...
Yes, some guys are able to drop the pan without removing the braces, but some had to. I tried, but there was no way mine would come off without removing the braces. Not sure why that is though...
Last edited by 86PACER; May 9, 2005 at 02:44 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
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From: Santa Maria CA
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I don't see why you couldn't weld it... but you'd have to remove it first of course. And once you've gone to that trouble, you might as well replace it with a good one. I'd worry more about it not getting a good seal to the block. And check your oil pickup, you'll need putty to check the clearance, I forget what is acceptable (3/16"-1/4"?)
As for removing the pan, your counterweights on the crank will get in the way sometimes. Turn the engine to between #8 & #4 or between #5 & #7 in the firing order. The easy way to check where it is, is just pull the distributor cap. When the rotor points to 7-8 oclock or 1-2 oclock, you're there.
As for removing the pan, your counterweights on the crank will get in the way sometimes. Turn the engine to between #8 & #4 or between #5 & #7 in the firing order. The easy way to check where it is, is just pull the distributor cap. When the rotor points to 7-8 oclock or 1-2 oclock, you're there.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
Your question was "would it be safe to weld the crack while the pan was still on the car". No one would weld an oil pan while still on the car. Its kind of like you have a crack in your gas tank so you do a weld while connected. Gasoline, extremely inflammable. Oil is also inflammable. So the answer is, No, its not safe.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
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From: seattle WA
I spent 23 yrs. in the welding and fab. business-can it be welded on the car-yes! would I do it? NO, to properly weld the pan it definetly
should be removed and pickled (cleaned) to prevent any porosity ,small
holes which will eventually leak caused by oil and other contaminants during welding, and welding the outside will cause the inside to cook off any sludge etc. on the inside-if you do it get that oil drained first, then flush the pan good before putting oil back in it. I think your better off to replace it with one from a junk yard etc.
should be removed and pickled (cleaned) to prevent any porosity ,small
holes which will eventually leak caused by oil and other contaminants during welding, and welding the outside will cause the inside to cook off any sludge etc. on the inside-if you do it get that oil drained first, then flush the pan good before putting oil back in it. I think your better off to replace it with one from a junk yard etc.
Last edited by rick lambert; May 10, 2005 at 08:48 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
