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I am just in the process of putting on stainless brake lines and I am wondering what the correct method is of bleeding an 86 with ABS. Do i need one of those presurising bleeding systems which pushes or pull the fluid through the system or just the old fashioned pumping of the pedal and releasing the bleeding nipple.
I use a small, hand operated vacuum gun and it works fine but any of the methods you mentioned will work. Just make sure you follow the procedure in the manual as to what wheel to start on and which one is next. This varies year to year. Also, keep a check on the master cylinder for fluid level.
I've used the Mity Vac and it does work... but the speed bleeders are hands down quicker and easier. Get the real "speed bleeder" brand form www.speedbleeder.com
I got some no-names from an auto parts store and they never fit right (even though they're supposedly the same specs ).
The Miti-vac system works great for an entire flush especially if you are doing the job yourself. The vacuum pulls a larger amount of fluid thru in a short period of time compared to using the brake pedal to pump fluid thru the system.
Speed Bleeders will work great too but just takes longer to push the new fluid through the system. You will use almost a quart to do a omplete flush.
And eschoendorf is 100% right on the use of the "real" Speed Bleeder product. The work far better than the Russel bleeders. Get part # SB1010 for your car and consider the bleeding kit they offer. It's a plastic bag and hose that's small enough to keep in the storage copartments so if you need to bleed some fluid at the track, everything is right there. Also add a small line wrench for the bleed screw.
Get a bottle of their thread sealant too. The bleeders come with a sealer on the threads but after using them a dozen times or so, you should re-coat the threads to insure a good seal.
From: Stafford, Virginia Kittah, Kittah, Kittah...
Originally Posted by eschoendorff
I've used the Mity Vac and it does work... but the speed bleeders are hands down quicker and easier. Get the real "speed bleeder" brand form www.speedbleeder.com
I got some no-names from an auto parts store and they never fit right (even though they're supposedly the same specs ).
My, "real" Speedbleeders didn't fit quite right either... The rears were shorter than the stock bleeder screws... They didn't stop bleeding until I bottomed out the top of the bleeder screw on the caliper face...
They do work as advertised though... I have them on my daily driver as well and it made flushing the brake system a breeze...
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by 65Z01
I was able to flush my entire brake system by slipping a rubber tube over the bleeder with the other end in a can of brake fluid.
Then I could repeatedly pump the pedal slowly with the bleeder cracked a little and no air got sucked back into the system.
The main problem with this method, is the air bubbles that you force part way down the brake lines or into the caliper (but not out) get pulled back up when you release the pedal. They just move back and forth but never get forced out of the system.
I've used the Mity Vac and it does work... but the speed bleeders are hands down quicker and easier. Get the real "speed bleeder" brand form www.speedbleeder.com
I got some no-names from an auto parts store and they never fit right (even though they're supposedly the same specs ).
I ordered a set this Wednesday from the above web site. Hope to get them today or tomorrow.
If you've got two people then using a Mity-Vac works fine. I've done it several times with excellent results.
But if you do it solo then some "speed-bleeders" are definitely the way to go. I used some "cheapo" Help-Section speed bleeders in all four calipers and have had no problems.
Just make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. If you are replacing/flushing your lines then you want to pump quite a bit through the system. The process (even doing it solo) can be a tad tedious. The "pump 12-15 times, refill master cylinder, repeat" can take awhile.
Be patient and do a thorough job. It only needs to be repeated about every other year for a non-race vehicle that is driven with spirit.
I've recently done this alot trying to get a brand new line lock that was faulty to work.
If you do it manual follow these instructions and you will be ok.
If you are starting fresh then the master cylinder itself must be bled. Fill both reservoirs and have a partner press the pedal to the floor (car not running) and hold. While the pedal is pressed crack open the front line at master cylinder and let the air out then close the front line and then do the same with the rear. Dont release the pedal until the lines are closed back Close lines then release pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat making sure the reservoirs stay filled with fluid as you go. Do this as many times as needed until no air farts out.
Now fill the system by starting at the with the passenger side front and rear by opening the bleeders. I start with the front because Helms says to but it doesn't matter which you do first as the front and rears are totally independent of each other but you need to start with the passenger sides front and rear one at a time because they are both the furthest from the master. Crack open the front right bleeder and have someone slowly pump the pedal until you see some fluid then have them push pedal to floor and hold then close bleeder. Now go make sure reservoirs are full. Now go back to the front bleeder and have partner push pedal all the way to floor (dont pump) and then crack open bleeder to remove air. Then close bleeder and have them release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds then repeat. Helms says that sometimes it is necessary to repeat this step up to 15 times per caliper to remove all air. Do this same process at each caliper (passenger sides first then drivers) being constantly aware of fluid reservoirs levels. Dont let them get below half full.
Once the lines are full helms says to never pump the pedal and to never let off of the pedal while a bleeder is open as it will introduce air into the system.
If you have to do it manual this is the way to do it.
If you've got two people then using a Mity-Vac works fine. I've done it several times with excellent results.
But if you do it solo then some "speed-bleeders" are definitely the way to go. I used some "cheapo" Help-Section speed bleeders in all four calipers and have had no problems.
Just make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. If you are replacing/flushing your lines then you want to pump quite a bit through the system. The process (even doing it solo) can be a tad tedious. The "pump 12-15 times, refill master cylinder, repeat" can take awhile.
Be patient and do a thorough job. It only needs to be repeated about every other year for a non-race vehicle that is driven with spirit.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I've gained new respect for the speedbleeders.
Someone on here pointed out using teflon tape on the thread to keep em from sucking air in, and they work like a charm. I even found a set for my Wilwoods.
If Im replacing the brake lines should I replace one line at a time then bleed that line and go on to the next. Or is it ok to remove and replace all the lines then go through one by one bleeding them. Or does it not matter?
One person works the pump. What does the second person do?
All the Mity-Vac really does is keep you from sucking air back into the lines. It doesn't move enough fluid on its own. The second person still needs to pump the pedal to do the job thoroughly.