Another VATS question
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,470
Likes: 2
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
Another VATS question
OK-- as I stated in another post, I parked the `ol `87 & when I came out later, put the key in , turned it, everything lit up, even heard the fuel pump kick in, but when I turned it all the way--- NOTHING---- 
. The battery is fine. I left it sit all day, & when I came back later, it started right up. Hmmmm- I right away figured damn VATS. I ordered one of those moduels from MAD, & decided to install it last night. After dropping the hush panel, & finding the brown & yellow wires, what to my wondering eyes appears--- The wires are cut & A RESISTOR already wired into these wires 
. I took the resistor out, & wired in the module ( which is probably another resistor dressed up to look pretty). My question is-- How can I have the symptoms of a bad key chip, when there was a resistor wired into the system that would have read the correct value all the time? Do these replacement resistors go bad also, to where it will start today, & not tomorrow? 
. When I wired in the MAD moduel it starts up fine (for now :rolleyes)Anyone know what are the symptoms of a bad VATS module (the actual moduel behind the bread box)? I figured, being "solid state", it either works, or it does not 
. The battery is fine. I left it sit all day, & when I came back later, it started right up. Hmmmm- I right away figured damn VATS. I ordered one of those moduels from MAD, & decided to install it last night. After dropping the hush panel, & finding the brown & yellow wires, what to my wondering eyes appears--- The wires are cut & A RESISTOR already wired into these wires . I took the resistor out, & wired in the module ( which is probably another resistor dressed up to look pretty). My question is-- How can I have the symptoms of a bad key chip, when there was a resistor wired into the system that would have read the correct value all the time? Do these replacement resistors go bad also, to where it will start today, & not tomorrow? . When I wired in the MAD moduel it starts up fine (for now :rolleyes)Anyone know what are the symptoms of a bad VATS module (the actual moduel behind the bread box)? I figured, being "solid state", it either works, or it does not
Last edited by kenv; May 13, 2005 at 11:05 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
The VATS module closes the start enable relay if the pellet is the correct resistance. So, power to the starter solenoid goes through the ign sw start contacts to the start enable relay and then through the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and through the firewall connector to the starter solenoid terminal on the starter. So the next logical thing to check is the clutch safety switch. When it won't start, jump the clutch safety switch and try another crank. If it won't crank, measure the voltage on the jumper on the clutch safety switch while the ign is in crank position, if no 12v, then the start enable relay may be defective.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,470
Likes: 2
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by jfb
The VATS module closes the start enable relay if the pellet is the correct resistance. So, power to the starter solenoid goes through the ign sw start contacts to the start enable relay and then through the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and through the firewall connector to the starter solenoid terminal on the starter. So the next logical thing to check is the clutch safety switch. When it won't start, jump the clutch safety switch and try another crank. If it won't crank, measure the voltage on the jumper on the clutch safety switch while the ign is in crank position, if no 12v, then the start enable relay may be defective.
