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I was really curious to know what is involved in the installation, what tools are needed. I'm considering doing gears in the near future and would really like to install them myself. From the few people I talked to they said it was do able with the right tools. I know you need various pullers and a dial indicator. Do you need a special fixture to work in? Has anyone here done this themselves?
Also, I was wondering what is the weak point in the rear end. I've read about many C4 rear ends breaking and was wondering the cause...case,batwing,internal? In my case I have a D36.
Thanks,
Jeff
do you have a copy of the Helms manual? That shows many special tools that are needed.
No but if I decide to do it my self I will definitely get one.
I was just asking because I wanted to see if people on this board have done it themselves and I guess I wanted to see if it was possible. I would really like to do all the work on my car myself.
I get a lot of people that say that is the only part of the car they wouldn't mess with too. Why is that? Is it everything is exact tolerances/special tools/complexity??? I'm not trying to belittle anyone's experience I would just like to gain some knowledge.
It is not for a first timer. The tools and the precision are critical. Experience and having the "feel" go a long way, too, to getting a good job. Search the forum for members that had problems with professional installations. It takes more than just a mechanic. For assurances you need an experienced gear man. If you want to learn, pay your pro extra, to allow you to watch and carefully explain what he's doing. Poorly set, they will be noisy and may need to be replaced in short order.
I've done mine myself many times but not in my Vette. I have no reason to, they're already 3.45's and I'm quite happy with that.
I imagine the Vette 36 or 44 is a similar setup procedure. You have to go back and forth with pinion depth and backlash many times before you even get close. Then use marking paint to dial it in perfectly.
One thing that makes it easier (at least on the ones I've done) get two identical pinion bearings, the one that is closest to the pinion gear and hone the inner race out until it just slides on the pinion shaft. Then adding or subtracting shims for depth is much easier. When it's all set you can then just press on the unhoned bearing.
Another thing I've always done is toss the crush sleeve, bearings need set, not crushed! I don't know if Vette rears even use the silly things. Some loctite on the pinion jamb nut is more than sufficient to keep the bearing preload set.
Oh, and I've NEVER had any noise or breakage from my backyard approach either. So laugh all you want.
It is not for a first timer. The tools and the precision are critical. Experience and having the "feel" go a long way, too, to getting a good job. Search the forum for members that had problems with professional installations. It takes more than just a mechanic. For assurances you need an experienced gear man. If you want to learn, pay your pro extra, to allow you to watch and carefully explain what he's doing. Poorly set, they will be noisy and may need to be replaced in short order.
RACE ON!!!
I can agree with this, how many forum members have gears set up by so called pros only to wind up with noise? Having all the exotic tools in the world don't mean diddly squat if one doesn't know what the proper set up is or how to acheive it.
I just had mine changed and I did all the labor of the removal of the differential. I took to a guy I know who is a mechanic and has two camaro drag cars. He had to grind out the case for the ring gear to clear and use a depth gauge to set it up. I am really glad I didn't attempt this myself. It is in the car now and I am really happy with how quiet the gears are and the increased performance. It was 150 dollars labor well spent.
I also used dana-spicer gears. I went from 3.33 to 3.73
I've done mine myself many times but not in my Vette. I have no reason to, they're already 3.45's and I'm quite happy with that.
I imagine the Vette 36 or 44 is a similar setup procedure. You have to go back and forth with pinion depth and backlash many times before you even get close. Then use marking paint to dial it in perfectly.
There are a few forum members that have done them, themselves. The successful installations are few and far between.
Originally Posted by ALLT4
One thing that makes it easier (at least on the ones I've done) get two identical pinion bearings, the one that is closest to the pinion gear and hone the inner race out until it just slides on the pinion shaft. Then adding or subtracting shims for depth is much easier. When it's all set you can then just press on the unhoned bearing.
Another thing I've always done is toss the crush sleeve, bearings need set, not crushed! I don't know if Vette rears even use the silly things.
On the Dana diffs, the pinion depth is set by shimming the rear pinion bearing cup in the housing, rather than spacers/shims behind the pinion bearing cone and rollers. Early C4s use shims for the pinion bearing preload. I understand the later diffs have crush sleeves, but I haven't seen any of those. I agree that the general procedure for setting any ring and pinion is pretty much the same. Different rear ends have different means of making the adjustments.
As a rule, when someone asks if they can set their own gears, I reply, the fact that you asked, tells me you had probably better not.