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I don't know why not. All you've got to do is to use those little grey cells.
Remember it wasn't "MY" hypothetical HP gain, it was his. I used his 2% and 1 HP figures to put things in context. Sorry you're not able to understand the basic reasoning.
I understand your faulty reasoning perfectly well. According to it, if you pay $15k for a throttle body air foil it should produce around 10x the HP of ported heads+custom cam.
The cost of the mod plus the cost of a completely different mod plus the dyno gain of the different mod tells you exactly zero about the dyno gain of the first mod.
Interesting that I'm the one with dug in heels, when in my followup I clarified why there is a problem with the argument you made, whereas your last two posts have said nothing at all to support the argument you made or to address my criticism of it.
Can't find anything definitive over on camaroz28 either. Here's another data point:
Originally Posted by injuneer
Just provides the PCM with more accurate inlet air temp data. With the excessive heat soak in the stock location, you can get IAT's in the range of 140-145degF. This appears to pull about 3 degrees of timing. Not sure if anyone has confirmed this as an absolute fact. But from my experience, it would get a little sluggish when the IAT went to 140degF.
Do not put a resistor in the sensor connector. That trick goes back to the 3rd Gens where the speed-density models would run a little richer with a 57degF IAT temp (4.7Kohms). I've seen a number of reports of people dynoing the resistor and losing HP on the LT1.