Im in the middle of hooking up my Meziere and Im not sure about the electrical part. Meziere supplies a plug with a black and blue wire that connects to the pump. I also bought a BG electric pump relay the same as is used in the Grand Sport tech tips hotcam install. How do you hook this thing up? Im guessing you connect the blue wire from the Mezieres harness to the orange wire from the BG harness and that is labled "out to the pump". The black wire from the Mezieres harness goes to the chassis ground somewhere. The red wire from the BG relay should go to the positive battery terminal. The problem is where does the yellow "in from the switch" from the BG harnes go to?

Hope Im making some sense, I read the Mezieres tech tip on here but I didnt understand how he hooks the relay up?

 

I would think the yellow wire would go to a switch or to a coolent sensor

 

Right, the problem is I dont know where to connect the wire to. I read it should be to the pink ignition wire but I have no idea where that is.

 

I am tring to remember.The wire on the wheel well on the drivers side goes to the relays at the front of the car .
You have to hook into the green ,but I can't remember.
The plastic loom with all the wires that runs under the alt.
I would use a test light and check the blue and the green to see which is hot ,when you turn on the key.

 

It's in the harness that runs along the upper inside of the left side wheelwell. Just trace it back from the relays until you find a factory junction and slice in there. This will eliminate adding an additional splice.

 

I found the wire harness that runs on the inside driver side wheelwell and it leads to a fuebox that it mounted to the wheelwell in front of the battery. I'll tap into the wire thats hot when the ignition is on... are those 3m skotch lock taps reliable?

That fuse box also has a thick red wire labled "battery" so that should work for the 12 volt in line.

Finally this may sound obvious to some but.... if I connect the black wire that comes directly from the pump to a ground, then I should leave the ground wire from the relay unattatched right?

 

It should work that way but relays don't always work like you want.
Before you ground the black turn every thing on and use a test light on the black wire and see if power is comming through the ground.
It just might save you that smoking wire thing.

 

The 3M connectors are crap, don't use them ANYWHERE in an automotive application. These connections should be soldered and sealed for long life. This is your engine's cooling we're talking about here. And yes, ALL grounds need to be hooked up. When in doubt, GROUND!

 

Here is the tech tip I think you are talking about. I copied the part about wiring and I think it covers everything:

I know it's long, but I do explain how to wire the Mez pump near the end of the article. Just so you know, here is how a relay works: Purpose-- to keep high amp users that require heavy wires isolated from areas like under your dash or near other sensitive areas. How they work-- usually, there are four wires going into the relay; two heavy ones and two lighter ones. The 2 lighter ones are the "signal" circuit that tells the relay to close completing the circuit for the high amp drawing accessory (the heavy wires).

You have me wondering about a fuse box you said you have. My 92 doesn't have a fuse box in that area.

Connections--- They are very important and need to be solid or you risk the chance of having your pump stop working causing an overheat. I suggest soldering all joints and taking care to tape each connection.

" Meziere didn't give us what was really needed to wire this pump up correctly. So, you need at least a 30 amp relay (Radio shack has one, but a good electric fuel pump 30 amp relay might be better as far as lasting longer). Another product that might be better is the Painless brand electric water pump relay kit from Jeg's. I just didn't know the amperage of the relay and it was $30. Also, I bought a 10-gauge wire 20 amp fuse holder with a few feet of 10-gauge wire. Some 10 - 12gauge terminal ends, Insulated female receptacles to plug into the relay, butt connectors to connect to the fuse holder and I eliminated the Mez plug connector and went with butt connectors. A better way would be to use a quality weather pack plug. Also, get some ring end terminals to connect to the "jump-start junction block." In case you don't know what a relay is for let me explain. The relay is a switch that keeps the high drawing amperage components away from areas that shouldn't have high amperage. The relay has a signal circuit that energizes the relay and makes a high amp connection. The Mez pump is a high amperage draw and we need a relay to turn it on. Where does the signal circuit get its power or signal? I chose to use the "run-on, bulb test, crank" circuit which is the one that is powered when the ignition switch is on. Where did I get the power to run the pump? From the "jump-start junction block, which is basically a direct shot from the battery. Okay, enough of electrics 101. There is a block or junction of electrical wires connecting to one source (a bolt with a nut) right behind the battery. This is 12 volt all the time power. Put a ringed end terminal on it and run the wire to the relay you bought. One of the tabs should say 12volt in. I mounted the fuse holder on top of the ASR with the bolt that holds the cover on. I also mounted the relay just under the ECM, there is a small plastic tab that sticks down and I drilled a small hole for mounting the relay. Continue the wire from the relay where it says 12volt out to the fuse holder. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the BLUE wire of the Mez pump. I dressed it into the harness right along the edge of the fender. I used a butt connector instead of the supplied plug (too cheap). Run the black wire from the pump to a ground, I used the ground bolt just under the fan relays. Secure that wire from the pump to the fan braces via tie wraps; don't want to have it tangle with the serp belt. Now for the signal circuit. In my 92, the run-on circuit runs to the fans and it is pink with a black stripe. You can find it by tracing back from the cooling fan relays to a point where you can make a splice. If you have any pink wire at the store, you can keep the color correct for your circuit, or just use any 14 -16 gauge wire. After making the splice, run the wire to the relay and connect to the "on/off switch" tab. Run the remaining tab to ground. Again, I ran it to the same bolt under the fans for ground. Recheck your connections and that is it for the wiring. DON"T TEST IT YET UNLESS YOU HAVE REFILLED THE COOLING SYSTEM. The instructions say don't run dry. If you followed the wiring exactly, your pump will turn in the correct direction. Blue gets the power and black goes to ground. Did you reconnect the battery? Refill the oil and cooling systems. I don't use DEXCOOL; I just use the GREEN STUFF and distilled water. After you have coolant in your system turn the key on and look inside the expansion tank to see if it is flowing. Hopefully it is. This makes it easy to top off the system with the pump running. Take one more look under and through the car before you give it a test drive. Bring an extra fuse and a jumper wire in case the relay fails. You can just pull the two 12 volt wires off the relay and connect via a jumper wire with blade terminals on it. This will get you back home. Most guys carry an extra relay, just in case"

 

Thanks for the help everyone.. finally got it wired up. I used a pink wire from the secondary fan relay for the on switch to the pump relay. The pump works great and looks nice too