Clutch going in, need advice.
Also, i've heard some things about balancing the new flywheel, is this necessary. I'm doing this job with a helms manual and some friends that know way more about cars than I do so is there anything trick about it that I should know or is it pretty straight forward.
This will allow the new flywheel to match the old DM.
Remember - the DM is the final balancing act required on these engines. So the SM must be out of balance the same amount.





This will allow the new flywheel to match the old DM.
Remember - the DM is the final balancing act required on these engines. So the SM must be out of balance the same amount.
1. Bought the Stage 2 kit from Carolina Clutch--came with a stamped note on disc--flywheel side which was wrong--spring hub has to go with springs to the flywheel side. Yeah if you work at it you can install it backwards and then can’t get the transmission installed. Also comes with a Valeo pressure plate that appears identical to the old unit. You need the spring hub disc because the original is a solid disc and you must have a spring hub disc since the dual mass provides this function normally.
2. Absolutely have the Fidanza match balanced to the old dual mass--find a good shop with latest balancing equipment--Windows based system. I learned this the hard way and had to take mine back out after initial install--terrible vibration above 3000. Found out that the external balance weight on my Fidanza was 30.5gms to heavy. This is many pounds at 3000 rpm. Also do not use the bolts and washers provided--order flywheel bolts with HARDENED washers from ARP (Summit). I used the provided bolts and washers the first time and they badly deformed the area around the flywheel mounting holes.
3. Read the removal-install procedure from zfdoc.com and order the beam plates from him also. It is a real PITA trying to get at and hold the nuts on top of the drive shaft beam. The plates are also reported to improve stability on hard shifts--see zfdoc.com
4. Make sure that the fork ball is tight and the lock is also tight. Use ONE drop of blue lock tight on the lock only--my fork ball was unscrewing itself which is what got me into this to start with.
5. Drain and refill transmission with 10-60 Castrol from you local BMW dealer.
6. With everything back together after the match balancing, the results are: Very slight vibration at 3500 but I’m not sure that it wasn’t there before. The dual mass was balanced after engine assembly and has little weights added to the flywheel perifery. Noticeable gear clatter at idle in neutral—sounds like a diesel. I just say—racing transmission designed by people who didn’t know how to fix problems designed out of transmissions 40 years aga. Noticeable gear clatter/resonance of clutch hub springs(I think) between 1000 and 2000 with moderate to heavy acceleration but you can drive around this. Easier shifting. Faster acceleration by seat of the pants especially in lower gears and I only spent the price of a dual mass flywheel other than the 4 days taking it up and down twice. I did buy a transmission jack from Harbor Freight. Yes, the ligher flywheel is worth 300-400 pounds in virtual weight reduction in low gear and gets less as you go up in gears. Hope this helps.
Also recommend that you mark the orientation of the driveshaft to the rearend so that you put it back the same way.
Last edited by 96CERon; May 29, 2005 at 06:33 AM. Reason: typing







