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I'm lookin to do my next mod on my '93 but am not sure which I should do. I've currently got a hypertech chip, flowmaster exhaust and k&n. Would headers give me much of an increase? What kind of cam would be best to go with.
I'd go with headers first because a larger cam is going to need better breathing from the engine. And if you change the cam, scrap the hyper@#$% chip, time for custom.
You have an LT motor the LT4 cam will bring it alive.
The factory uses the same stock exaust with that cam.
I think the relults speak for themself.
Roller rockers and springs cam it will fly.
I'm lookin to do my next mod on my '93 but am not sure which I should do. I've currently got a hypertech chip, flowmaster exhaust and k&n. Would headers give me much of an increase? What kind of cam would be best to go with.
I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I have a set of long tubes coming and I want to upgrade the cam this fall. Here is how I look at it. To gain the benefits of the cam, you should improve the flows through the heads and headers. As to which cam to go with? It all depends on how you want your Vette to perform. Compromise will have to be looked at. Do you want all out performance at the high end? Do you want driveability? It seems that the GM Hotcam is a good compromise that can handle both.
Just putting on headers can reduce your low end torque if nothing else is done, but you'll feel an increase in the top end. Just putting in a cam will give you increased performance, but at a gas mileage drop without anything else done.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, wait until you have all the pieces (good heads matched to your intake, roller rockers-1.6s, springs, cam, headers, and a good tune). I guess they call it a top end upgrade.
If you are only going to do one or the other, do the cam.
Headers on a stock car really aren't worth a whole lot, the cam is. Cam and headers would be best though. I used to think that headers were the best bang for the buck mod, they gave me the greatest seat of the pants increase in power. They did, but I already had the cam. My friend Brian put headers on his car with stock cam and it just really didn't make all that much difference.
If you can do both, go ahead and do the headers first and save up for the cam install if you can't do it yourself. If you could afford to have the heads ported while thats done, even better.
But, as soon as you change cams, you must get a custom chip.
Thanks for the input, I think I'm gonna go with a new cam. Sucks that I have to get a new chip then too. Can I just get this one reprogrammed? I still have the factory chip too, can I put that back in? Anyone know of a place to get a LT4 cam and rollers?
You have an LT motor the LT4 cam will bring it alive.
The factory uses the same stock exaust with that cam.
I think the relults speak for themself.
Roller rockers and springs cam it will fly.
If you mean the LT4 cam, it has less lift than the LT1 cam.
If you mean the LT4 hotcam, the factory didn't use the stock exhaust with it - hotcam is not a factory option.
So going with a stock LT4 cam wouldn't be worth it then? Would the LT4 hotcam be a considerable increase? Also, what's all involved with replacing the cam? Just remove the water pump, opti, timing cover, valve covers, rockers and pushrods or is there more to it? Thanks again for the replies.
So going with a stock LT4 cam wouldn't be worth it then? Would the LT4 hotcam be a considerable increase? Also, what's all involved with replacing the cam? Just remove the water pump, opti, timing cover, valve covers, rockers and pushrods or is there more to it? Thanks again for the replies.
Of course you have to removing the timing chain itself, 3 bolts. You have to remove the intake because the lifters have to come out, and the oil pump drive. The radiator also has to come out so you have room to slide the cam out, and the engine has to tilt backwards a few degrees so the cam will clear the front crossmember. You can take the drivetrain apart by removing the torque arm, or some people have done it just by leaving the drivetrain and taking the motor mounts loose. There are several different ways to go about it. I wouldn't say that a cam is really hard job, just involved and tedious.
The LT4 hot cam, rockers, electric water pump and chip on my car picked up some 44 horsepower over stock. That chip was a mail order job and it ran very rich. There was probably another 10 horses or so left in a better tune.
I'm lookin to do my next mod on my '93 but am not sure which I should do.
Forget it all. I started out with a stock '93 and "modded myself to death". After more than $10k in bolt-ons with heads & cam this and heads & cam plus N20 that, I finally found the truth regarding power on these engines...
If you're looking for true performance, do youself one favor. Save your money and build a 383/396 forged stroker motor built for boost (8.5:1 to 9.0:1 compression) and throw a Vortech S-Trim or T-Trim at it.
You'll have more power than you know what to do with! If you're going down the path of power, you might as well do it right.
The 383 sounds awesome but I also want to keep the good mpg I'm gettin with it now. I know some bolt ons aren't going to help with mpg but I don't think it would suffer as much as it would with goin all out on the 383. Even though I'd love the power it produced, that's for sure. You wouldn't happen to have some of those bolt-on's you had on yours layin around yet would ya?
The 383 sounds awesome but I also want to keep the good mpg I'm gettin with it now. I know some bolt ons aren't going to help with mpg but I don't think it would suffer as much as it would with goin all out on the 383. Even though I'd love the power it produced, that's for sure. You wouldn't happen to have some of those bolt-on's you had on yours layin around yet would ya?
Most of 'em (except the engine mods of course) BTW - I get 25+ mpg in my blown 383. That's with 3.45 gears in 6th of course...
What all is involved with building up a 383? Are you still using the stock intake, heads, etc? How much $$ is involved in building one up as well and how much $$ is the supercharger? I might have to look into this a little more because you're right, once I start modding I probably wouldn't stop. And after doing so would still want more power.
What all is involved with building up a 383? Are you still using the stock intake, heads, etc? How much $$ is involved in building one up as well and how much $$ is the supercharger? I might have to look into this a little more because you're right, once I start modding I probably wouldn't stop. And after doing so would still want more power.
When considering 383:
Stock LT1 intake is pretty good breathable item just keep it like that
or u might light port it.
Heads definetly needs stage 2 porting and valve job.
just the block and all internals will cost around 3 grand for 383
(if u want all good quality forged parts and arp bolts).
Dont have much knowledge in SC.
Once u built this monster motor than u sure have to look on tranny and
radaitor and other little bity stuff to go smooth along with 400 hp.
u r looking around 14 grand atleast by the time u finish bottom end/cam/heads/headers,....blah blah... unless u want to turn wrenches
urself.
Iam beyond that still have not 383 (i wish i would have do that for a little extra penny).
What all is involved with building up a 383? Are you still using the stock intake, heads, etc? How much $$ is involved in building one up as well and how much $$ is the supercharger? I might have to look into this a little more because you're right, once I start modding I probably wouldn't stop. And after doing so would still want more power.
Well, where do we start? Your engine needs to be completely disassebled for starters. Your favorite performance center or machine shop will prep/clean the block and make sure everything is true.
I would advise against using the stock heads/intake. I would use competition ported AFR or Stage III LT4 heads (ported for boost). If you decide to stick with the LT1 intake, do not get it ported. If you go with an LT4 intake, definitely get it ported.
Go with a cam designed to meet the flow characteristics of your heads (which should be a blower grind).
Don't sacrifice on the small stuff - build everything forged (callies/eagle) crank, forged connecting rods (pro-mods come to mind), JE forged blower pistons.
Are you sitting down? If not, please do so. The engine alone can cost 10k. The blower will cost around 5k. It all depends on how much "elbow-grease" you're willing to contribute to the cause.
In the final analysis, you'll spend around 15k but you won't be able to wipe the grin off of your face when you put your foot into it!