Start problem
Been happening the past couple of days. Turn key and nothing . No crank and lights are strong. Keep trying for about 15-20 secs before it starts. No problem once it starts.
What kinda problem do I have?
TIA
Been happening the past couple of days. Turn key and nothing . No crank and lights are strong. Keep trying for about 15-20 secs before it starts. No problem once it starts.
What kinda problem do I have?
TIA
Next time it does it, stop trying to start it, get a hammer and give the starter a couple of good raps. Now try to start it. If it cranks over immediately...time for a new starter.





Next time it does it, stop trying to start it, get a hammer and give the starter a couple of good raps. Now try to start it. If it cranks over immediately...time for a new starter.
If you can then it might be the starter solenoid switch contacts. If you can't it might be VATS. VATS will not allow a crank if it doesn't detect the correct pellet resistance and after several tries it won't allow a crank for 6 minutes. First try your spare ignition key as its pellet contacts aren't worn like your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) as this switch is in series with the start enable relay which VATS controls and then try a crank. You can prove the starter is good by jumping 12v to the jumped clutch safety switch which will make the starter crank. Next remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and look for the two wires from the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector. These are the contacts in the ign tumbler that make connection to the key pellet. Insert your ign key and unplug the 2 pin connector and measure the resistance across the two wires from the steering column. You should measure the same value resistance as the pellet. If ove 13k ohms, you need a new ign tumbler. You can temporarily bypass VATS by clipping a fixed 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires that go into the wiring harness (these go to the VATS module) until you can schedule the ign tumbler replacement. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Even though your lights all stay on, I would remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and bolts and replace (neg last). A starter motor requires 100+ amps to run and this requires a low resistance connection to the battery. You want your battery connections to be like your lover, bright and tight!
Even though your lights all stay on, I would remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and bolts and replace (neg last). A starter motor requires 100+ amps to run and this requires a low resistance connection to the battery. You want your battery connections to be like your lover, bright and tight!

Bright and tight lovers don't want anything to do with me.
Thanks everyone for the info.
PS JFB...I will continue to look for bright tight lover.
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My starting problem was like yours with the added errors. Had to replace the theft deterent relay. Sits in the passenger footwell under the mat and above the body control module.
My starting problem was like yours with the added errors. Had to replace the theft deterent relay. Sits in the passenger footwell under the mat and above the body control module.
Replaced starter and problem disappeared







