C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jun 3, 2005 | 10:31 PM
  #1  
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Default Start problem

92 auto.

Been happening the past couple of days. Turn key and nothing . No crank and lights are strong. Keep trying for about 15-20 secs before it starts. No problem once it starts.
What kinda problem do I have?
TIA
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Old Jun 3, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jabez
92 auto.

Been happening the past couple of days. Turn key and nothing . No crank and lights are strong. Keep trying for about 15-20 secs before it starts. No problem once it starts.
What kinda problem do I have?
TIA
My car did this a while ago and kept getting worse, turned out to be the starter, had a dead/weak spot on the commutator.
Next time it does it, stop trying to start it, get a hammer and give the starter a couple of good raps. Now try to start it. If it cranks over immediately...time for a new starter.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Morley
My car did this a while ago and kept getting worse, turned out to be the starter, had a dead/weak spot on the commutator.
Next time it does it, stop trying to start it, get a hammer and give the starter a couple of good raps. Now try to start it. If it cranks over immediately...time for a new starter.
Could also be the solenoid (on the starter), voltage drop to the solenoid, ignition switch, bad connection at any number of places, etc.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 12:26 AM
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Can you hear the starter solenoid click when you hit the crank position?
If you can then it might be the starter solenoid switch contacts. If you can't it might be VATS. VATS will not allow a crank if it doesn't detect the correct pellet resistance and after several tries it won't allow a crank for 6 minutes. First try your spare ignition key as its pellet contacts aren't worn like your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) as this switch is in series with the start enable relay which VATS controls and then try a crank. You can prove the starter is good by jumping 12v to the jumped clutch safety switch which will make the starter crank. Next remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and look for the two wires from the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector. These are the contacts in the ign tumbler that make connection to the key pellet. Insert your ign key and unplug the 2 pin connector and measure the resistance across the two wires from the steering column. You should measure the same value resistance as the pellet. If ove 13k ohms, you need a new ign tumbler. You can temporarily bypass VATS by clipping a fixed 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires that go into the wiring harness (these go to the VATS module) until you can schedule the ign tumbler replacement. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 03:50 AM
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Don't think its the Vats. Doesn't take 6 minutes to start. More like 15-20 secs.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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Answer the first question in my post!
Even though your lights all stay on, I would remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and bolts and replace (neg last). A starter motor requires 100+ amps to run and this requires a low resistance connection to the battery. You want your battery connections to be like your lover, bright and tight!
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jfb
Answer the first question in my post!
Even though your lights all stay on, I would remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and bolts and replace (neg last). A starter motor requires 100+ amps to run and this requires a low resistance connection to the battery. You want your battery connections to be like your lover, bright and tight!
Yes i do hear a click with key to crank position.
Bright and tight lovers don't want anything to do with me.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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After having the the battery cables, battery, and starter checked, it turned out that it was the starter that was crapping out.
Thanks everyone for the info.

PS JFB...I will continue to look for bright tight lover.
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 08:37 AM
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Are you getting any display errors after it starts, like engine running at reduced power or service traction control system? Does your key fob mysteriously stop working?

My starting problem was like yours with the added errors. Had to replace the theft deterent relay. Sits in the passenger footwell under the mat and above the body control module.
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by arcom
Are you getting any display errors after it starts, like engine running at reduced power or service traction control system? Does your key fob mysteriously stop working?

My starting problem was like yours with the added errors. Had to replace the theft deterent relay. Sits in the passenger footwell under the mat and above the body control module.
Nope. No display errors.No key FOB in 1992's.

Replaced starter and problem disappeared
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