Installing front shocks
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From: Overland Park Kansas
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Installing front shocks
Just got some new Bilsteins. On other front shock installations (non-verts), I usually hold the upper part of shock from rotating while I install the upper retaining nut. (In fact, at least one shock through the years said NOT to let the piston rotate else damage would occur).
On the Bilsteins, this cannot be done -- since the upper cylinder is not attached/keyed to the shaft. Can I assume it won't damage the shock by tightening the top nut without holding the piston from rotating? (And/or is it splined without the ability to rotate)?
I did find a thread on torque specs. Says 22lbs for the lower nuts while tightening the top until the rubber bushings bulge even with the metal washers.
Thanks for any feedback.
gp
On the Bilsteins, this cannot be done -- since the upper cylinder is not attached/keyed to the shaft. Can I assume it won't damage the shock by tightening the top nut without holding the piston from rotating? (And/or is it splined without the ability to rotate)?
I did find a thread on torque specs. Says 22lbs for the lower nuts while tightening the top until the rubber bushings bulge even with the metal washers.
Thanks for any feedback.
gp
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From: Bergen County, NJ
I'm not sure what you're saying, but I just installed new Bilstein's on my '88 recently.
There is a fitting for an allen wrench on each top. I held the allen wrench on it as I turned the top nut.
There was no problem.
There is a fitting for an allen wrench on each top. I held the allen wrench on it as I turned the top nut.
There was no problem.
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New Bilstein's have a Torx recess at the top of the shock rod. Simply insert a Torx or Allen head in there and tighten the nut to specs. Tightening to the point where the bushing slightly bulges outside the retaining washer should work.
The rear shocks will be similar, once you remove the shock along with the upper mounting plate, just put the mounting plate in a vise and tighten the upper nut like the lower ones, The rear lower nuts are torqued to about 60 ft-lbs and the mounting plate nuts to 22-25 ft-lb.
The rear shocks will be similar, once you remove the shock along with the upper mounting plate, just put the mounting plate in a vise and tighten the upper nut like the lower ones, The rear lower nuts are torqued to about 60 ft-lbs and the mounting plate nuts to 22-25 ft-lb.
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
New Bilstein's have a Torx recess at the top of the shock rod. Simply insert a Torx or Allen head in there and tighten the nut to specs. Tightening to the point where the bushing slightly bulges outside the retaining washer should work.
The rear shocks will be similar, once you remove the shock along with the upper mounting plate, just put the mounting plate in a vise and tighten the upper nut like the lower ones, The rear lower nuts are torqued to about 60 ft-lbs and the mounting plate nuts to 22-25 ft-lb.
The rear shocks will be similar, once you remove the shock along with the upper mounting plate, just put the mounting plate in a vise and tighten the upper nut like the lower ones, The rear lower nuts are torqued to about 60 ft-lbs and the mounting plate nuts to 22-25 ft-lb.
Pretty neat advancement in shock technology 
seeya
