C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

"""My Completed engine upgrades""" questions

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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:31 AM
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Default """My Completed engine upgrades""" questions

I just had my 1985 car finished at the shop after several months. I had edelbrock heads-intake 170cc 246ex
edelbrock cam-duration is 240 in/246ex
LPE Superram and base
5 speed Keisler
adjustable fuel regulator
Nice set of magnum rockers
Deleted 9th fuel injector
-----I also have full exhaust system with 1 5/8" into 2.5 headers, ramair
HERES MY PROBLEM....I took it for a spin hoping to see about 400 hp or less. Didn't happen.......Heres the symptoms!!!
---Not as fast as it was before I took it in for upgrades (little slower)
---RPM setting Jumps in redline almost every time I shift
---Coolant level reads around 205 going at cruising speed
---SHUTS OFF EVERY time I come to a stop, engine sounds nice and mean, but this is pathetic--I'm praying to god this is just a chip problem. I had a guy here on the forum (who burns MOST ALL of you guys chips burn me one) thats in there right now, my mechanic said its that chip I had burned--its not cooresponding correctly. He said the 9th injector is not programmable in the chip. PLEASE give me your advise, what should I do !!!! I paid $3300 for upgrades/work at shop alone not including the 3200 tranny and 1300 SR---This is killing my budget and I'm not getting what I should be...I talked to guy who burned the chip and basically theres nothing more he can do. So should I send the chip back for refund and take car to a professional tuner to dyno and burn chip ??? The installer is a very skilled guy, he works on race cars and hotrods all the time and has a big shop with full machining operation.

Last edited by chillcat; Jun 9, 2005 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:37 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by chillcat
I send the chip back for refund and take car to a professional tuner to dyno and burn chip ???
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:14 AM
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Sounds like there's major vacuum leaks. You'll need a chip burned to take advantage of everything, but it should be reasonably driveable with the original. It should be able to at least idle and not die at lights. Get the vac leaks handled.

Unfortunately it means taking the upper plenum and runners off again. You'll need to order new gaskets to put on, and use RTV on both sides of the gasket. I tried twice to get the s.r. on right and couldn't do it. I gave up and took it to my mechanic, and it took him 2 times and a trip to the machine shop before it was on right with no leaks. Now it runs with no vac leaks and there's a ton more power. Vac leaks are a major issue with super rams.

As far as the ninth injector. Lots of guys here don't run the ninth for various reasons, including the s.r. It IS programmable in the chip, and anyone that is well versed at making custom programs should have known that. He should have started off with the batch file for the 89's, which used the MAF and no ninth injector. Instead, on cold start, it would richen up all 8 injectors. My chip was burned by Ed Wright, and I have no problem with cold start using that file.

Chris
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:59 AM
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Yep, its either major vacuum problems or the chip.
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 10:05 AM
  #5  
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Data logs ??? Vacume gauge ??? Wide band A/F ??? Codes ???

What is the mechanic doing to trouble shoot the problem? If he is just seting the timing and saying it's the chip you need to bring it to someone who understands FI and modified motors.

If you are running it w/o knowing your A/F you are just asking for trouble. Get a data loger and if posible a wideband ASAP and quit running the car untill you do. If the air/fuel ratio is to lean you can torch the motor in short order, way to rich and you can wash the cyl walls/rings (Usaly quite obvious black clouds of smoke)
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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I now got another problem with the engine....I talked to a technician at keisler and he said its not the gearing thats holding up the power, its either the clutch slipping or the rear differential, but most likely not the differential--NOR the tranny. The clutch I got is a stage 2 centerforce Brand new along with the tranny. Heres my new problem, I wen't to try running the car up the road and try out the tranny, and there is a bolt laying on the driveway where the engine was with oil around the bolt, looks like oil was SPRAYED out in one area like spray paint. The rear differential is stock 2.73 is that holding up power ? I'm no mechanic--wish I was more familar with this stuff. I'm hoping this guy at the shop is just overlooking his own work or something. I wish I never gotten into this headache.....Help...as for codes, should I use that jumper key I bought from midamerica and find out ? which ports do I plug it into ?
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