further help needed jacking car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Gaithersburg Maryland
further help needed jacking car.
This is such a bone head question, but better swallow my pride and ask then break my car. I got advice on jacking the car two weeks ago, but I still am unsure of where to place the jacks. I can see the arrows marking the jacking locations, but it looks like they are directing me to place my jack under the rocker panel seam, which appears to be at least part fiberglass. I am very afraid of breaking something here. I am trying to install my cross frame tonight, and am stuck on this detail. I have a two ton floor jack, and can lift one side of the car if I know where to place it. At the front it appears there is a reinforcing plate under the floor. This does not look like it is strong enough to support the car, but is directly behind the arrows marking the jack location. I am going back in the garage to mark the other side, which I can do with the car on the floor. I hope that by the time I come back, someone will take pity on this poor struggling Corvette newcomer, and give some good advice. Thanks a ton. Maybe even two tons. Vader
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
You have the points correct for a side lift
I take a 6 inch piece of 2x4 and put it on top of the jack. I position it between the arrows and place it inward of the fiberglass rocker lip.
as the jack lifts., I ensure that the 2x4 lifts on the steel frame rail and does not bind on the fiberglass. When you do this on the rear make sure you don't pinch brake or gas lines.
For a front end lift I place the jack under the front cross member and lift both front wheels at one time.
I take a 6 inch piece of 2x4 and put it on top of the jack. I position it between the arrows and place it inward of the fiberglass rocker lip.
as the jack lifts., I ensure that the 2x4 lifts on the steel frame rail and does not bind on the fiberglass. When you do this on the rear make sure you don't pinch brake or gas lines.
For a front end lift I place the jack under the front cross member and lift both front wheels at one time.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Ok, this is not a bone head question. This is what I have done on my 1985.
The front: Just in back of the lower A Arm is a metal hook eye. That is welded straight to the frame. A low profile floor jack fits nicely under this hook eye.
The rear: Just forward of the rear wheels is your factory jack point, approx 4 inches inward from that point two pieces of the frame joint together. Again a floor jack fits nicely and securely right there. Just be wary of any stray brake lines.
Mike
The front: Just in back of the lower A Arm is a metal hook eye. That is welded straight to the frame. A low profile floor jack fits nicely under this hook eye.
The rear: Just forward of the rear wheels is your factory jack point, approx 4 inches inward from that point two pieces of the frame joint together. Again a floor jack fits nicely and securely right there. Just be wary of any stray brake lines.
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
Go to www.zr1registry.com
on the left of the home page look for ZR-1 How to's... click on the thumnail
You will see a page with a list of How to's there are two articles on how to Jack a Zr-1 Both are applicable to all C4's.... both have photos
I find the first one's photos the most illustrative
Good Luck
on the left of the home page look for ZR-1 How to's... click on the thumnail
You will see a page with a list of How to's there are two articles on how to Jack a Zr-1 Both are applicable to all C4's.... both have photos
I find the first one's photos the most illustrative
Good Luck
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 2
From: Newtown PA
Those side jacking points between the arrows are reinforced with steel. The steel is only provided behind the portion of the fiberglass flange that spans between the arrows. There is no steel reinforcement beyond those arrows. The fiberglass will not be damaged by jacking between those arrows. Just make sure that the lifting member extends under both the fiberglass flange and the steel reinforcement plate disposed behind it. An idiot at a tire store once tried to jack up my car by placing the lifting member only under the fiberglass portion of the flange at that lift point. As he started to jack the car up, I noticed the flange starting to bend so I started yelling at him to stop. Amazingly, the flange did not break or crack. It was, however, permenantly deformed. The brake/gas lines run close on the other side of these flanges/steel plates, so just be careful that the upwardly extendng lip of the lift member does not contact the lines during jacking.
Paul
Paul
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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Here are some pics. I use ramps for the back wheels and drive up on 2 x 8's for the fronts, that allows me to jack the car up from the front. I place a 4 x 4 on the jack and jack it up by the crash bar(is that what it's called?) and place jackstands on the frame where the swaybar attaches(no pics of that). At the rear if I need to pull the wheels, I place the jackstands as shown.
I use a Jack-A-Vette to raise the rear if I'm not using the ramps.
I use a Jack-A-Vette to raise the rear if I'm not using the ramps.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
Odd you mention that, I have a jack-a-vette (was for my dad's vette, he ended up not getting it, and I don't need two) I was going to sell. If there is interest Dartvader, you can PM. It works great!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by resipsa
The fiberglass will not be damaged by jacking between those arrows.
Yes it might, although it's plastic. I definitely won't put jackstands there. My rocker panels are destroyed from jacking there. The plastic hangs down a little bit below the folded steel. Even my harbor freight jack with the big flat rubber pad on it will buckle that plastic and break the paint off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
That plastic/glass whatever hangs over the edge on mine never looked like a good idea. I have done mine the old school way lift up front from center crossover member, rear from the rear end. I drive it up on two 2x12s stepped to get the jack in there, I have been putting jack stands on the "Y" part of the frame that is visible just past in the rear arrows and in front forward of the arrows. That looks like real steel there at least. I looked at the zr1 guys jacking insructions and that guy put the stands in between the "Y"s on the flat spot. I have not tried that, when I was looking it over I thought that might not be a structurally sound place (ie. jack stand going through ther floor).
I think your question is very valid, Ive seen many putting the jack (w/hockey puck etc.) or stands on those edges, and obviously it works.
I just thought there has to be a better alternative. Ill be honest here, I dont like the non available solid areas to put a stand on (I mean that folded over spot welded areas that make the frame areas) Am I being too paranoid or putting stands in a bad place
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 2
From: Newtown PA
I have a '95 (owned it 10 years) and I have never damaged my car by jacking (numerous times) at the points indicated between the arrows. Older models may be more susceptible to being damaged. I dont know. Just providing my experience.
If you think jacking the C4 up is a pain, jacking up a C5 Z06 is worse. I also have one of these, and it is worse than the C4 to jackup because it is lower. It makes the simple process of changing the oil a big production (you have to tilt the car forward to drain the oil completely from the oil pan). I know this has nothing to do with this thread but it reminded me about the PIA oil change I have to perform on my C5 this weekend. I much rather be working on my C4.
If you think jacking the C4 up is a pain, jacking up a C5 Z06 is worse. I also have one of these, and it is worse than the C4 to jackup because it is lower. It makes the simple process of changing the oil a big production (you have to tilt the car forward to drain the oil completely from the oil pan). I know this has nothing to do with this thread but it reminded me about the PIA oil change I have to perform on my C5 this weekend. I much rather be working on my C4.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
I haven't had too much of an issue there. I use a floor jack at the locations marked on the sides, just get the lip into the groove of the jack. Then when its up you can easily find the frame and I just put the jack stands on the frame. The location just ahead of the rear wheels is the easiest since its boxed there so the jack stand fits in there perfect. Sorry I don't have any pictures but someone on the forum had some pictures when they installed their Corsa's and pointed those spots out to me before I did my Corsa's.