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I've been putting it off due to work/etc but today I finally tore apart the rear knuckle to replace the broken spindle. Not bad thanks to Scorp's illustrated tech tip. I pulled the rear halfshaft and decided to replace both u-joints while I was there. I cleaned up the little u-joint collars and bolts with a wire wheel and polished up my halfshaft and in the middle of this I made a discovery. The collars or straps which hold the u-joints are two seperate part numbers. This made me curious so I cleaned up my old u-joints enough to read the part numbers and they are also different. The u-joints and the straps look identical but are clearly different spicer part numbers. I ordered Precision (federal mogul) heavy duty u-joints to replace mine and apparantly one part will work for inside and outside? ... but I'm just wondering why they come from the factory different?
All 4 positions on all the half shafts on all C4's take the same size (1350) joints. The "U55" sounds like a replacement number (Neapco?) and I'm guessing the "U64" is Spicer. I'll bet some of these have been replaced before.
Thanks for the good info guys I feel a lot better now. The collars and the u-joints I'm removing are all spicer parts but it's possible one of the u-joints was replaced. The production date makes a lot of sense because when I was cleaning up my halfshaft today I noticed it was dated May or June of 92. Pretty cool ... my car must have been one of the last 92's. One of these days I'll stop being cheap and spring for the build sheet and window sticker from the museum ... maybe that will coincide with me finding a job
on a side note when the spindle snapped it forced the wheel bearing to explode with the hub assembly sealed wheel bearing no more! good thing these federal mogul (BCA) wheel bearing assemblies come with a year warranty That covers track use right?
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
There is another Spicer number that can be used in the halfshafts that is recommended for extreme applications, SPL 30-2X I believe. There are also other numbers that would fit but would not be the specific Corvette part number which is 5-800X, the joint w/o a grease fitting and with the Enduron coating to prevent galling.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
There is another Spicer number that can be used in the halfshafts that is recommended for extreme applications, SPL 30-2X I believe.
I just installed these. VERY stout. They have a coating on the caps.
I'll post a side by side pic when I'm done.
I believe the factory spicer units only had the coating on two caps... the ones that go in the aluminum yoke. I can't help but visualize some bean counter at GM ordering an intern to swap 10,000 coated caps for bare ones to save money.
There is another Spicer number that can be used in the halfshafts that is recommended for extreme applications, SPL 30-2X
Are you sure that the SPL 30-2X is a Spicer part number, and not someone else's (like Tom's) number for the Spicer joint? If not still current, the 5-800X once WAS the specific Corvette joint. The 1350 I mentioned above is the SERIES of the joint. It specifies the basic dimensions, like the cap diameter and overall length. There are many part numbers of 1350 series joints for different applications.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
That is the spicer number, it's on the box. Or is it SPL 300-2x? Anyways, that's the number. I also found it on some other catalogs besides tom's. Tom's differentials had his own numbers, but tom's differentials no longer exists anyways.
Thanks. I have seen that part number many times before, but it is so different than the "typical" Spicer u joint part number, and the fact that "SPL" sounds like someone else's, designation for "Spicer", made me suspicious. Thanks.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
That's the ones. They seem too big at first, just keep pressing in the vise until you hear the seals snap into place. I put the circlip behind the ujoint so as soon as it moves into place, it snaps in. I'd hate to over squish it and have slop.
I posted this in Chris' post but I'll put it here too... now that I pulled the passenger side half shaft and polished it along with putting in the new u-joints and polishing up my u-joint collars and bolts with the wire wheel ... it looks so sweet under the car on the passenger's side that I'll have to do the driver's side whether it needs it or not
By the way I went with the Precision brand (Federal Mogul) heavy duty "off road" u-joints and these bad boys are serious, I had to special order them at NAPA. The caps are all coated and they come with a high pressure zerk fitting which is actually in the center of one of the caps so it will work on the vette. They were double the price ($20) of the regular u-joint but you can't put a price tag on peace of mind, the stock ones were smelling burnt with 66k miles on the car now
Zerk fitting on the end cap sounds like a good idea if there's no clearance issues.
yep it's pretty slick I put it on one of the caps which is strapped to the halfshaft instead of the spindle so it will be easy to get to
I really want to do the other side u-joints now and replace the wheel bearing too just to cover my bases.
I was surprised at how easy it was considering I did it without a lift etc. I put the car two feet up in the air on jack stands and tore into it. I thought it was going to be an ugly job but everything came apart and went back together just like it was supposed to ... and I learned enough about the car that it will be a snap next time I need to pull the halfshaft for any reason I really need to take a picture so you guys can see how sweet it looks with everything cleaned up -vs- dirty and corroded.