Is anyone running 11.5 or better. If so what mods have you made to your motor and drivetrain.

 

There are a few of us that run it on a regular basis. I am sure some of the other guys will chime in and give a response.

I can tell you its not the easiest thing to accomplish and you are better off, if you are not too far along to go out and buy an all out racecar. For the money you will be further ahead to just do that. You can get a light ride, and not a huge motor, which will perform very well and hold up.

If you want to do it in a stock vette. Get out the checkbook and hold on.

Don't ask me how I know.

 

There are several guys doing it, but I am pretty sure none have stock bottom ends. Plan on spending about $4K or more on the motor and exhaust. I thought I could do it cheaper by piecing it together with good used parts, I found out otherwise, and I still don't have it together yet and probably won't see 11.5 since I have a vert, which is heavier.

 

I wouldn't go THAT far..

 

Do a search and decide what you want. It took a second build to get my setup right where I want it.

 

i have a good start for ya'!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=962577

 

Nuke, you're half right! You had some great deals on your parts. If not for the deals, the cost would have been higher. But you have certainly proved you can run quickly while on a budget.

 

*giggle*

Make that about 10-12k

 

Somone made a ten second car on 4k? Like you mean a vette' and not a bike right? holy crap I must be quite the idiot....
-Dave

 

Are you willing to run a nitrous system to meet your goal? This is absolutely the cheapest and easiest way to run 11's if you are starting from scratch. Nitrous can overcome a weaker cylinder head and induction system with the flick of a switch. In most cases you can run a modest nitrous kit and get some VERY impressive results if you have a proper tune up. Small things like spark plug gap become more important along with retarding the timing and a free flowing exhause. If you are running a stock camshaft you can enhance performance by increasing the rocker on the exhaust side to get the additional exhaust out of the engine.

I got my old 1985 Vette to run very high 11's with 200 horsepower of nitrous with only minor modifications. Most people would kill a stock engine with 200 horsepower of nitrous over time but if you have everything in order and no detonation it can be safely done. The first thing you have to do is FORGET about making horsepower and focus on torque. If you do not believe it is possible consider that the L98 makes over 300 lbs of torque in stock form and add 200 horsepower of nitrous which equates to roughly another 250 foot pounds of torque (now we are over 550 foot pounds) plus if you are running a free flowing exhaust and headers...you are ahead of the game even more. Now think about that much torque you have pulling a stock rear gear and with marginal traction you can run high 11's. If you hook the car with drag radials or ET streets you will probably be saying goodbye to your rear end in the very near future.

 

Amen...

 

I run 11.21 60' 1.60 118 mph to 122 mph ,with my 94 vert.
Roll bar 6 point,MSD 6al Aeromotive regulator stock D36 -3.07 grear,exaust cut outs.
Bee hive valve springs and 1.6 RR.
106 nitrous race fuel ,BarryGrant 125 shot plate system.
Nitto 315-17 drag radials.
86 vet 12.50 with 100 shot NX system 200 plus ths miles on it.
3000 stall vigilante 3.33 D44 .
I would recomend like the other vet owner in the other thread said.
Buy something else and race it .
If you try to race a vett you will have atleast $30,000 in it and still will not be what you want.
In one of the sponsers on the form they have in Texas, a corvette that runs 8's and you can have it for $80,000 .
I am having to decide which way I should go right now.

 

all out race car would proble be cheaper in the long run and you had better have a spare motor ect.. in the trailer.

 

Hey this raises another question that is not addressed here. To run 10s, what kind of rear ends and trannys are required? I see you have a beefed up tranny? What did you do for this?

 

He didn't say 10's he said 11's....... BIG difference

 

I would recomend like the other vet owner in the other thread said.
Buy something else and race it .
If you try to race a vett you will have atleast $30,000 in it and still will not be what you want.
In one of the sponsers on the form they have in Texas, a corvette that runs 8's and you can have it for $80,000 .
I am having to decide which way I should go right now.

Bullseye. I have seen a lot of 8-sec door cars. Without exception, they like to duke it out with hot altered's and dragsters, just because they can and occasionally they win. The problem is, the extra weight of a door car causes MUCH more breakage and evil handling because the extra weight, short wheelbase and required HP makes them erratic (the kiss of death in any bracket or .90's class). It takes mucho $$ to get the rolling chassis down to a competitive weight and enough HP. We all love our C4's , but we are up against the rules of physics when we consider trying to go very fast. It is all about power, weight and stability.

A very fast combo street and race car is at an enormous disadvantage against a dedicated race car and the cost to play that game is astronomical. One ends up with a dedicated race car after awhile and a lot more $ than ever imagined (tends to get financially married to the car). And forget about emissions compliance. One really should have a "come to Jesus" meeting with themselves and ask what it is they want to accomplish. Then just be prepared to step up to the plate and don't look back. The simple fact is a dragster or altered loves racing a relatively heavy 9-10 sec door car because they tend to be ducks. It is as close to getting a bye into the next round as one can get. I am sure I am stepping on some toes here, but anyone who has raced in a fast mover knows its true. Please don't kill the messenger.

If you want to race at that level, (Super Street or quicker) then you have to get to that level with a competitive chassis and power train: In the 8's, at or under 1,800 lbs, narrow 125" wheelbase or longer and a reliable, bulletproof engine making around 600-700 hp at the wheels on either gasoline or alky. A heavy, short wheelbase, high HP package is fun to drive or watch but they go out in the early rounds. And a RED or altered that is competitive in the 8's are relatively inexpensive. Good used turnkeys from guys who want to go faster or are retiring, at or under $20,000-$25,000 for car and enclosed trailer, depending on your monkey. Without trailer, under $15,000

An $80M Vette doing 8's is actually about right to build and be competitive, but it is stripped to the bone, tube chassis, lightweight fiberglass and lexan, decent paint, and close to 1,000hp! Heck, the rear end alone can cost $4,000+, not counting the tires and wheels! And at those speeds, there is a "Wall" out there in the form of air resistance. A full-on, high cross sectional area, door car still has trouble getting over 150 in 1/4 mile. When you pull up next to a RED or altered that is probably faster and quicker, you feel a lump in your throat. Going fast is thrilling. Going fast and winning...priceless

 

Too many people think its all about the motor.
Low 11's and 10's require wheels, tires, and chassis work.
A 10 second car has to be able to put the power down.

Larry
code5coupe

 

Larry,
You really hit the nail on the head...I totally agree with you! I was trying to get into the 5's in the 1/8 mile (9.40's in the 1/4) on hoosier quick time pro street tires in my S-10...I had gone the best of 6.06 the season before. During the winter I added another 50 horsepower of nitrous jetting and pulled a couple degrees of timing out of the engine and thought...the first run in good air should get me my 5 second timeslip. WRONG...I ended up having to another couple of thousand in upgrades to eventually get my 5.98 run. The issue is that I had already squeezed everything out of my current combination and a lot of people think you can just throw more power at the chassis and it will go faster. In my case it just started to overpower the suspension. The lesson is that it is easy to knock a second off of a car running 13's and get it into the 12's. To go from 12's to 11's way harder, going from 11's to 10's and it is REALLY different and breaking into the 9's from the 10 second bracket is HUGE for a street car and it is almost as impressive even if it is a door car/race car. John Meaney has one of the baddest street driven C4's on the planet, the car makes more than 1100 horsepower on a mild setup but the car can't get into the 9's even though it has run 156 mph quarter mile trap speed. Power alone will not get you there. Larry is right...the total combination is the key.

 

Cost me a fortune to get in high 12s

 

I have to agree with most what the guys said, but there are a few things that I do not totally agree.
It's true, you have to spend a fortune to get your car in the 10s or 9s. That's without taking patience, bad luck etc etc in consideration.
If you wan't an all around race car, you better off buying a second hand turn key car. No worries, cheap, easy to work on, parts right off the shelf ,etc etc.
A street-race door slammer can be very consistant. That's major factor if you're running bracket racing. Consistancy!!
I like street cars capable of running 10s or 9s. I know it will cost you a fortune. And I KNOW it very well.

I've spend a LOT of money to get my car running 10.66. But I'm not satisfied yet...so what else to do...spend more money....

If I had to do all over again...i'll do it again...

But all in all, the first thing you have to do is; decide where do you want to get with your car (11s, 10s or 9s etc etc). That's VERY VERY important, so you don't have spend more money to change the direction you were going.....