My frustration level with my 94 has reached new highs. A few months ago I blew the line that feeds the slave cylinder. I replaced it. The next day the slave went out. I replaced it. About two weeks later, the master cylinder started leaking into my floorboard. Guess what? I replaced it. So the other day, sitting in traffic I push the clutch pedal...STRAIGHT TO THE FLOOR!!! My car tried to drive itself into the car infront of me. Slam on the brakes it stalled. Pump the clutch pedal I got enough pressure to get the clutch to work a little. Noticing I have been leaking some fluid from the slave I replaced it only to find the clutch still won't work. I have bled a quart bottle through it and used a friends bleeder that pushes the fluid up. Could it be I blew the master again and it does not have enough pressure to operate the slave into the TOB arm?

 

yes.

welcome to the world of junk GM replacement parts.

From what we have been able to figure out, these hydraulics are rusting on the shelf. They come from GM prebled, so what happens is that the the fluid, being hydroscopic, absorb moisture on the shelf, rusting the insides, eating up the cylinder.

Now, since you are replacing components, that theory lacks some logic... so I donno what is wrong with your stuff.

But I am not surprised.

You may want to check to see what Raysbestos has to offer. I think Wagner may have parts, too. Check autozone, napa and Advance Auto...

 

You can take the slaves apart fairly easily to inspect them.

 

The slave cylinder is Raybestos. The master will be here this afternoon. One of my crew members is trying to get the old one out right now. NOT A FUN JOB!!

 

I've replaced a few over the last couple of years.

Before assuming that the one you are taking out is garbage check to see that the boot is locked in properly. My last one came from GM in pieces (literally). All I had to do was re-seat the boot and re-install the lock ring. Works like a champ now.

I'll place money on my statement above being your problem.

 

I am going to have to try this. I just got finished putting in a new master cylinder (the old one...if a year is old....was leaking worse than I thought) but even after bleeding when you push the pedal the TOB arm does not move. I now have a BRAND new master and slave and no clutch yet....FRUSTRATION DOES NOT EVEN BEGIN TO DESCRIBE MY FEELINGS RIGHT NOW!!!!!!

 

FOR SALE 1994 Chev Corvette LT1 81k, 6speed, black on black leather, black A molds, newer tires, new AC clutch, new clutch master and slave cylinders, Corsa Exhaust, Hooker shortie headers. Lowered 1.5 inches New belt, new Optima Red Top F**ked up clutch MAKE OFFER!!!!!!!!!!


Oh....sorry back to reality. Vette not for sale, but I need some help. I cannot push the TOB arm in at all. Shouldn't I be able to move it?

 

Sorry to hear about your frustration. I too had a POS GM replacement slave fail on my 95 earlier this year after less than a year and only a few thousand miles. I had the boot locking ring come off while I was installing it, and I re-set that, but the slave still failed and the locking ring was still intact when it failed. I ended up getting a slave from Doug Rippie Motorsports. They take stock GM slaves and mod them to be more resopnsive (open up the hydraulic orifice). The DRM guy told me they had rejected at least 1/3 of the off-the-shelf parts they had received from GM in the last year or two because they were rusted inside, though he thought they had gotten better recently. Even though the DRM-modified part was more expensive ($155 if I remember correctly), I thought the piece of mind of having them take the thing apart and inspect it as part of their mod process was worth it. The fact that I prefer the quicker responsiveness of their modified slave is a bonus.

I don't know what to do about clutch masters. I tried 3 from 3 different GM dealers (including one across the country) last year, and all were made so poorly I couldn't even install them in the car (the mounting flange was rotated on the cylinder, so the bolt holes wouldn't line up with the ones on the firewall). I just gave up on that for the time being and put the old one back in, but haven't had the drive to try to fight that battle again yet.

 

Have someone depress and hold the slave rod i ntheir hand, then soneone can push on the clutch pedal.

If the slave does not leak and if the slave rod does not move, then the master is bad.

 

Stupid question, but you are removing the slave to bleed it right?

 

Yup. I have tried about a dozen ways to get the thing to bleed. A friend of mine told me to check the TOB and arm. The TOB has been making a little noise for a while. But I think even if the TOB went bad I should still get some kind of pedal pressure.

 

OK!!!! Finally have tons of clutch pressure. The problem now is I only have about 3/4 of the clutch pedal stroke that I had before. The pedal will not travel to the top of its stroke, but I have not fired the car up yet (don't think that will change things). I cannot pull it up with all my strength. The old and new masters matched up before install. We even checked stroke. Any other ideas?


I was at the point where I had pulled the exhuast and was starting to pull the tranny when I thought I would try to bleed everything again. After all this, a small piece of crap came out of the slave valve. It would have been a kick to the boys to have all this pulled apart and the clutch itself not be the problem.