Half-shaft won't come out
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: South Haven Michigan
Half-shaft won't come out
I am changing the u-joints in the half-shafts and the rear wheel bearings in my 89 Convertible.
The half-shaft is disconnected from the gear carrier, but will not disconnect from the wheel hub. The straps & bolts are out, but the caps will not disconnect from the hub to let me remove it. They almost seem rusted together. So far I have :
- used a pry-bar between the half-shaft end and the hub (by hand and using a hammer on the pry-bar)
- tapped on the u-joint caps with a screwdriver and hammer
- double sprayed them with WD40 last night.
Anybody have any other ideas? Is it OK to use a propane torch on the caps? I thought some heat might help break it loose.
The half-shaft is disconnected from the gear carrier, but will not disconnect from the wheel hub. The straps & bolts are out, but the caps will not disconnect from the hub to let me remove it. They almost seem rusted together. So far I have :
- used a pry-bar between the half-shaft end and the hub (by hand and using a hammer on the pry-bar)
- tapped on the u-joint caps with a screwdriver and hammer
- double sprayed them with WD40 last night.
Anybody have any other ideas? Is it OK to use a propane torch on the caps? I thought some heat might help break it loose.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 2
From: Little Rock Arkansas
Uhh...Guys...You have to disconnect the dogbone and the tierod; you have to be able to pull the knuckle outwards in order to release the halfshaft. I didn't see any mention that he did that.
-Jeb
-Jeb
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: South Haven Michigan
I have disconnected the spring, tie-rod and strut rod (at the knuckle). The knuckle moves out fine, the half-shaft just won't disconnect. I was using a pry-bar about 30" long last night and it wouldn't budge.
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but what is 'PB Blaster'? Is it available at Auto parts stores?
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but what is 'PB Blaster'? Is it available at Auto parts stores?
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 2
From: Little Rock Arkansas
Originally Posted by Mark_Sheehy
I have disconnected the spring, tie-rod and strut rod (at the knuckle). The knuckle moves out fine, the half-shaft just won't disconnect. I was using a pry-bar about 30" long last night and it wouldn't budge.
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but what is 'PB Blaster'? Is it available at Auto parts stores?
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but what is 'PB Blaster'? Is it available at Auto parts stores?
-Jeb
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
Also be careful with heat on the U-joint caps, for that matter don't do it. Not because you'll ruin them, who cares. Once I was heating a stock U-joint cap that had that plastic inner locking ring, you have to heat it real good and it squirms right out. Well I was heating it and the cap shot out of the flange faster than a bullet and took a good chunk out of a concrete wall. It's a good thing my face wasn't in front of that cap or it probably would have killed me.
The grease inside the sealed joint must have heated up so much it was a time bomb waiting to go off. Definite lucky learning experience.
The grease inside the sealed joint must have heated up so much it was a time bomb waiting to go off. Definite lucky learning experience.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Originally Posted by ALLT4
Also be careful with heat on the U-joint caps, for that matter don't do it. Not because you'll ruin them, who cares. Once I was heating a stock U-joint cap that had that plastic inner locking ring, you have to heat it real good and it squirms right out. Well I was heating it and the cap shot out of the flange faster than a bullet and took a good chunk out of a concrete wall. It's a good thing my face wasn't in front of that cap or it probably would have killed me.
The grease inside the sealed joint must have heated up so much it was a time bomb waiting to go off. Definite lucky learning experience.
The grease inside the sealed joint must have heated up so much it was a time bomb waiting to go off. Definite lucky learning experience.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
It was close enough to my head I always point them to the ground while heating them up. I heard the thing zing right past my ear. Imagine getting shot with a smoking hot u-joint cap in the face somewhere! Doesn't paint a pretty picture.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Originally Posted by Mark_Sheehy
I have disconnected the spring, tie-rod and strut rod (at the knuckle). The knuckle moves out fine, the half-shaft just won't disconnect. I was using a pry-bar about 30" long last night and it wouldn't budge.
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but what is 'PB Blaster'? Is it available at Auto parts stores?
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but what is 'PB Blaster'? Is it available at Auto parts stores?
Did you use a BFH on the ujoint cap? Sometimes sharp force moves things.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Jun 29, 2005 at 06:56 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 2
From: Champaign, IL
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by jburnett
Umm'kay then... Take out the drive spindle leaving the half-shaft stuck to it and beat it off once you get it out. You can drop the inside part of the half-shaft away from the diff and then pull the entire assembly out as one piece once you remove the spindle nut.
-Jeb
-Jeb
take off the 36mm nut and just pull the spindle out with the halfshaft, this will make things go a lot easier for you.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
I always pull the lower control arm off too. The one that makes up the miniture 4 link setup. And have your buddy pull out on the wheel from the bottom, and it will slip right out and go right in.
PB blaster is the ticket for cutting through rust.
PB blaster, Brake Cleaner, The RIght Stuff, and Anti-Seeze are amoung my favorite condiments.
I have tasted them all, and PB blaster is by far the worse.
PB blaster is the ticket for cutting through rust.
PB blaster, Brake Cleaner, The RIght Stuff, and Anti-Seeze are amoung my favorite condiments.
I have tasted them all, and PB blaster is by far the worse.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch (Memphis suburb) MS
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
PB blaster, Brake Cleaner, The RIght Stuff, and Anti-Seeze are amoung my favorite condiments.
I have tasted them all, and PB blaster is by far the worse.
I have tasted them all, and PB blaster is by far the worse.
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Half Shaft removal
I'm having the same type of fun with my 89. The 3 Torx head bolts holding the rear wheel bearing to the hub appear to be #50, #55 is too big. The #50 is too small. It skips when I try to use it, and it's brand new. I checked with Camcar and measured according to the tool print and it's only a few thou smaller. According to Camcar at that point in time the Torx special had not been used yet.Do I have a bad tool or is there a special dealer purchased tool to remove them?
Gary
Gary
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
This is a different problem, but the correct tool for the three rear knuckle to hub bolts is a T-55, Torx bit. If your bit doesn't fit inside the socket head of the bolt, one or the other may be burred, or maybe there is dirt inside the socket head of the bolt. This is not a "special" tool.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!