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I've never removed the piping, so I can't say for sure about that, but I have eliminated the AIR pump part of the system:
With the way the serpentine belt is routed, I believe that you need some kind of pulley there- whether you buy an AIR eliminator pulley, or just hollow out the AIR pump, and grease that pulley really well (what I did), its up to you...
I believe this tech tip should show you what you need: TechTip Link
The AIR pump creates a drag- its a small drag- but its still there, eliminating it will reduce drag a little bit. Arguably freeing up some HP.
My AIR pump was annoying-ly (is that a word?) noisy... After I eliminated it, everything sounds much smoother.
The only thing it does is pump air into your exhaust. I'm not sure if it will effect emissions, as I did not have to pass them. Hopefully someone will speak up in reguards to that.
Remove it! I've done it and working on the motor has gotten alot easier without all of the unnecessary piping and air pump. I ordered mine from Breathless Performance. Easy to put on and on my 85 all of the piping had rusted out and was very easy to remove. The unit is very well built and if I remember correctly there are at least 3 different vendors that have versions of the air pump eliminator kit. Check ebay too; I have seen some show up there at times. Some have mentioned too that to make sure that you have another bracket fabbed to hold the alternator on in two spots as opposed to the one spot that the eliminator kit would do. The guy that installed my headers had already done that for me so I was in good shape. The install is very easy and takes under an hour to complete. If you need pictures I can email them to you of what mine looks like.
On my 85, the air pump lines were all rusted and I wanted to clean up the engine bay area. I removed the air pump and all accompanying lines, etc. and had an air pump eliminator kit installed. What a difference this made. It looks so clean under the hood now that the air pump is gone.
The only thing the air pump does, is reduce emissions on start-up. After the car warms up a bit, it does nothing. If you live in an area that checks emission components, you may fail. They say that because the air pump only affects emissions on start-up, your emissions won't be any different when they are checked at the emission station, but they may fail you for not having the air pump hooked up.
Me too i hollowed the stock air pump (not a air pump eliminator).
Clened the engine compartment (I can see the water pump.. )
Only a concern....
On my SD system (speed density) I deleted the pump also in the chip.
(I think I raised the Minimum Temp for AIR Enable to 151d C )
Why? If the computer know you are pumping air in the exhaust It MUST know that the incrased o2 that it reads on the o2 sensor is from the air pump NOT from a lean condition.
So the computer will add 100 mv to the o2 reading.
(for my peace in the chip I decreased also this value from 100 to 0).
This is foe my 90 (Speed density) but I think it will apply also for MAF cars.
-Beppe-
The AIR system is designed to get the cats heated up and doing their magic quicker, so its mostly for startup emissions. It does function sometimes when the car is heated up, but its primary purpose is done. You will pass emissions without it, so long as the car is heated up.
You need to buy the eliminator pulley, from Ecklers or MidAmerica or wherever, to put in its place after you remove the pump.
Me too i hollowed the stock air pump (not a air pump eliminator).
Clened the engine compartment (I can see the water pump.. )
Only a concern....
On my SD system (speed density) I deleted the pump also in the chip.
(I think I raised the Minimum Temp for AIR Enable to 151d C )
Why? If the computer know you are pumping air in the exhaust It MUST know that the incrased o2 that it reads on the o2 sensor is from the air pump NOT from a lean condition.
So the computer will add 100 mv to the o2 reading.
(for my peace in the chip I decreased also this value from 100 to 0).
This is foe my 90 (Speed density) but I think it will apply also for MAF cars.
-Beppe-
I think that also in a 85 there is the 100 mv thing...
Nothing that can create big probles but if you are thinking to go in the "chip burning mania " you will see all these things and you will think that you need to take controf of it.
If I have to explain in simple words I can say that the computer think that it has additional oxygen from the air pump. In reality You are NOT adding oxigen via Air pump (you fisically deleted..)so the computer works as if it has this additional O2.
And what do you do with the holes left in the exhaust manifolds?
Tell your wife that now you need headers
But no, the holes should be fine. I mean think about it: there's a one-way valve there to keep super hot exhaust gasses out of the rest of the AIR system. So if you pull the hoses off, you should be fine without any further modifications (provided you arn't having any problems with the check valve of course)
Hi I am new to the forum but have been reading for a couple of months now. I recently purchased a 1985 and took out the air pump tubing. You can cap off the manifold tubing with a 3/4" pipe cap. Headers are next on the list.
The holes are one-way, gas only goes in. You don't have to plug them, but you can.
I would plug them. Yes there is a check valve which if it is working properly, will not allow any exhaust to escape. That is the only way it would escape is if there is a restriction downstream. ie.... plugged cat, restrictive stock manifold, etc.... At the valve there is a low pressure zone (it is drawing a vaccum). It will draw in air, which in will in turn give inaccurate readings at the O2 sensor. That will throw off the Fuel trim, dump fuel and it will run fat.
If you take L98 manifolds off and look inside them, you will see the air tube extends into the pipe quite a bit, which looks like a restriction to me. I wanted to keep these manifolds, so I drilled the tubes out completely and welded up the holes nice and smooth. You can hardly tell they were there. I think those air pump eliminator brackets they sell are kinda ugly, so I made my own which uses a shorter belt and doesn't have the idler pulley sticking way up.
I just gutted my noisy air pump and then reinstalled it with all the proper hoses and looks completely stock. At this time I don't want to remove everything, just gutted to quiet it down.
Will the gutted air pump hooked back up cause any undesireable effects?