Hello all,

This looks easy to do, but before I start on this can any of y'all out there tell me what problems might crop up? My coil is literally coming apart and I have to replaced it tonight.

Do I need to remove the entire bracket or can I just mount the new coil?

 

You'll need heat sink compound. You can get a tube of it at radio shack, less than $5. You'll apply an even coat on the plate that mounts to the engine. If you don't the new one won't last long.

Work on a cool engine you'll be tightening bolts into the block.

There are basically two bolts one is a stud bolt and regular. 15mm I believe. The power steering pump bracket integrates into the coil mount. The upper bracket connection is the stud bolt and there is a lower bolt.

Essentially, disconnect battery (some don't I do), disconnect the two electrical connectors and coil wire. Loosen the lower PS bracket bolt then the nut on the stud bolt. Pay attention to the lower mount point of the bracket as there are two pieces there remember the order for reassembly. Just pull it free of the stud bolt and it will be fine. Then remove the two bolts (one is the stud bolt) securing the coil module. Out it comes.

You'll need to drill out the two rivets that mount the coil, the new one comes with new screws to mount it. The instructions with the coil will list the proper drill size. I can get that if you need it.

Reverse to assemble but be sure to coat the engine side of the plate with heat sink compound. Torque all four bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft/lbs).

Reconnect electricals. I also moved all the wires out of the way to make it easier to access.

 

Thanks for the reply.

The coil I'm replacing isn't the original, I had the original replaced about 4 years ago and the rivets were drilled out then.

Being this is the case, is it still necessary to completely remove the coil bracket? I can easily see the screws that replaced the rivets.

 

I just went through this following the advice of JetJocky. I found that the bracket bolts and stud bolt on my 95 was 9/16" and, if you do need to remove the stud bolt, you'd better have a 9/16" deep socket. I went through my coil change without unhooking the battery and live to tell about it (but I guess it's always better to be safe if you have concerns).

If you can see and get to the screws that hold the coil to the bracket, maybe you don't have to worry about removing the entire bracket with coil and module. That would certainly save a bunch of time.

 

In that case you probably can just swap it out. Why are you going through so many coils?

My only concern would be as to whether or not heat sink compound is sufficient on the plate side. For two more bolts, it might save you from cooking another coil.

 

The original coil was replaced in 2001. I'm not sure why this one failed, but it is odd that the center part of the coil has broken loose, loose enough that I think I could break it apart without much effort. It is a Moroso coil so I would have though it would have held up better than a generic. I guess vibration did it, but my LT1 runs very smooth.

I've never seen one fail structurally like that. Has anyone else?

 

I tried a jeg's and MSD.
Now I am back using the factory coil.
Not that bad a job but the engine never cools down so do it cold.