Valve spring compressor: Any Recommendations?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,401
Likes: 397
From: Lakeville MI
Valve spring compressor: Any Recommendations?
I'm planning to install LT4 springs/retainers on my L98 with the heads on, motor in the car, in preparation for a future cam change...
Will a $25 Manley pry-bar type do the job? It looks like there will be enough clearance. Also considering the Crane Cams valve spring compressor that looks like it can do 2 valves at once, but is a little pricey at around $100 or so.
Any info on what works or what doesn't work will be appreciated.
Thanks
Will a $25 Manley pry-bar type do the job? It looks like there will be enough clearance. Also considering the Crane Cams valve spring compressor that looks like it can do 2 valves at once, but is a little pricey at around $100 or so.
Any info on what works or what doesn't work will be appreciated.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati Oh
I just did this yesterday on my L98-ish (haha) motor. You may want to shell out the $15 for the "c-clamp" type compressor because space will be at a premium while the heads are in the car. A couple of tips off the top of my head:
*I hope you have an air compressor and appropriate adaptors to pump the cylinders with air (sears has everything you'll need). You'll want to put the cylinder you're working on at TDC just in case you lose a valve - it may save your butt or it may not.
*Be sure to rap the top of the valve spring lock/retainer assembly with a socket to jar the locks loose BEFORE you attempt to compress and remove the stock springs.
*Use a large screwdriver to work the valve seals off if you're replacing the cups. I had viton-type seals that are very durable - you may want to have extras in case you tear them up while removing them.
*have a magnetic wand handy - works great for getting the valve retainers out initially.
Be patient and take breaks!
*I hope you have an air compressor and appropriate adaptors to pump the cylinders with air (sears has everything you'll need). You'll want to put the cylinder you're working on at TDC just in case you lose a valve - it may save your butt or it may not.
*Be sure to rap the top of the valve spring lock/retainer assembly with a socket to jar the locks loose BEFORE you attempt to compress and remove the stock springs.
*Use a large screwdriver to work the valve seals off if you're replacing the cups. I had viton-type seals that are very durable - you may want to have extras in case you tear them up while removing them.
*have a magnetic wand handy - works great for getting the valve retainers out initially.
Be patient and take breaks!
Last edited by Ramanstud; Jul 9, 2005 at 12:26 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
Likes: 86
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Don't know about the L98, but this one worked really well on myLT1. SUM-906784
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=35&y=10
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=35&y=10
