[[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=4][COLOR=Blue]B]My 95 won't let me reprogram my new key fob. I go through the instructions provided but I don't get the PKE light on the DIC. Does anyone know what type of cost I am looking at to get the dealer to fix this problem. I also have a 2002 and have gotten spoiled using a key fob to lock and unlock the car and I would like the Passive system to work on my 95 as well.

Charlie[/B]

 

Do a search for pke in the c4 forums, there are multiple threads regarding this.

 

Had it been working in the past, or just started acting Up?

 

Can't really say how long it has been acting up since the car didn't come with a Fob. I spent the $140.00 bucks to buy the darn thing and go to set it up the PKE module won't go into reprogram mode. Every now and then the PKE light just comes on in the DIC and I know the rest of the alarm system still works cause I have tested reaching in and opening the door and getting the rather sickley horn (another issue) to sound off.

 

The light is fed directly from the power door lock fuse. If your power door locks works but you have no PKE DIC light the module may have problems or have some bad connections. Maybe just a faulty bulb? Also, are you sure a previous owner didn't trash the wiring with some Mickey Mouse aftermarket affair?

 

I would do a thorough search of the interior. There may be a FOB under the seat or in the storage compartment behind the pass/seat. It's happened before. Worth a try.

 

Nope no Fob anywhere in the car - trust me I've looked in every nook and cranny. The PKE light comes on just fine on the DIC - that's the problem - sometimes it comes on and sometimes it doesn't. I find if I turn the car off and re-insert the key int he ignition the PKE light goes off - I think the module must be bad - how hard is it: A: to locate the module and B: Replace it when I find it and C: How much money am I looking at?

 

When I get home I'll try sit down and write up a definitive fix guide for everyone. I just hope when I take the time to do it it doesn't wind up lost in the cracks of the forum.

Read this in the meantime...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...70&forum_id=48

 

Hmmm since I am not an electronics tech - only a Sr. Systems Engineer and on my best days never good with a soldering iron - I don't relish the thought of taking my steering column apart - besides I do get the chime with the key left in the ignition. I have thought about taking the dash apart and looking at the PKE module it's self - how big is it and how do I recognize it (assuming the dash is full of all sorts of odds and ends behind the face plate)? BTW I have ordered the shop manual - maybe by the time I get home tomorrow from this business trip I am on in hades (Arizona - 118F), the book will be waiting in my mail box.

Charlie

Great article though thank you on sending the link - any ideas why my horns don't work well - sounds like a sick cow!

 

Are you familiar with the DLC & how to check for codes? You can check for trouble codes that relate to the PKE system. I would try before you start buying parts you may not need.

 

Hey Charlie, assuming the PKE receiver is in the same place for the '95 and '96 cars, you have to pull the dash pad to get to the box. And that's a bit of a PIA to pull off, I'd just wait for the shop manual so you know what else you have to take off to do it. Once the pad is off right under the center a/c vent duct you'll see two boxes, the smaller one on top is the chime box, and the larger one under it is the PKE receiver. I had to first disconnect all of the wires and then get the chime box out of the way before I could wiggle the receiver out of there. PM me if you have any questions about doing it, I just did it 2 weekends ago. And there's another thread that I posted the PN for the receiver if you need that. Hope this helps.

Vinnie

 

This pertains to my 96 but should work for 95, 94, maybe others you’ll have to look and see. I’m assuming you have a known good transmitter. You know how to program it correctly. If not do a search and you should find many tips on it or use your manual.

A few preliminary checks should be done first to rule out anything stupid and not so obvious.

Fuses…
#40 RDO BATT 5A=provides constant power to the module.

#26 PKE 5A=provides switched 12 volts in run, bulb test and start.

#42 POWER LOCK= provides voltage to the indicator bulb and power door lock relays in the module.

If all those are OK you need to make sure your “Key in ignition switch” is working, this is easily tested by opening your door with the key inserted and listening for the warning chime. If no chime is heard you have either a defective switch in the ignition, the chime itself is just dead, or there is a wiring problem between the switch and CCM and/or the PKE receiver.

Now you’re saying, “that’s all good but it still won’t program” You need to make sure the module is actually alive and responding. Enter the diagnostic mode by jumping pins 8 to 5 on the DLC and inserting your key in the ignition with it in “Lock” position. Take your transmitter out of range for this. Do you have any PKE light activity? If NO the module will have to be accessed, if it’s working it should flash DTC 13 (one flash, pause, three flashes) bring your transmitter into range and make sure to move it around shake it, the DTC should change from 13 to either 14 or 15.

14 is good, it means your transmitter isn’t programmed or has a bad battery. (Unlikely since you can’t program it anyway.)
15 is bad, you have some system the CCM is looking at that isn’t in a ready state, door lock switches, courtesy light switches on the doors etc… you need to figure why the CCM isn’t happy. You’ll need the service manual for this there’s no way to figure it out without it.

In the case of no DTC’s the module just isn’t ready for some reason, you need to access the module by removing the dash cap. It isn’t that hard; don’t cut apart your dash frame inside behind the radio to get to it that’s what hackers do. Do it right and pop the dash off it’s only a number of screws.

You will see two boxes in the middle of the inner dash velcro’d together. The PKE receiver module is the one underneath. It can positioned to gain access to the terminals but it’s not easy.



Check all the inputs the thing needs in order to work…

A1=Ground, BLK wire.

A4=will go from 12 volts to 0 when you stick the key in the ignition. LT GRN wire.

A5=PKE fuse input, switched 12 volts. PNK wire.

A6=LH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. GRY/BLK wire.

A7=RH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. BLK/WHT wire.

A8=RDO fuses input, should be 12 volts at all times. ORN wire.

C=Lamp indicator, ground this BLK/ORN wire and the indicator should light.

F=Power Door Lock, hot at all times. ORN wire.


Your module may have some broken connections where the connectors finally make their way into the PCB of the module. It can be taken apart easily but re-soldering the connections isn’t so easy. The board has a coating on it for protection, you have to dig through the stuff in order to re-solder things.

I’ve included a picture of the pin outs from the receiver for reference and aid. Do yourself a favor and buy the Helms service manual. Even if you can’t fix your PKE with it you’ll need it for many other things.

I’m sure this isn’t all inclusive but it should help solve many problems folks have.

 

i have went thru 2 pke's and have learned them inside and out, and they are a piece of junk. don't stress over it, and never expect to use it again. i can believe how unreliable they are. it just blows my mind. you will just frustrate yourself over and over.