Hi

I pulled my valve covers igain today because i still have a tick coming from that area. (For the record:it's is not the injectors ). As far as i can hear the noise is coming from the intake valve at #4 cylinder and the exhaust on #7. I've tried to adjust the valves but to no avail. As long as I am tightening the nut on top of the rocker, the ticking will stop but as soon as i stop turning the noise will return. I've been fiddeling with this for a while now and i can't for the life of me get them adjusted. I'm a little worried that this may be a lack of oilpressure reaching the lifters, not causing them to pump up properly.

You guys allways recommend to make a splash guard out of cardboard to catch oil squirting out of the pushrod when adjusting the valves. There is soo little oil coming from the pushrods that i allmost didn't need the splashguard... also after start up it takes around 20-30 seconds for oil to start flowing from the pushrodsit is in no way "squirting". Is this normal?

Trouble shooting i've done soo far:
Measured the oilpressure: Its a steady 20 psi at idle and around 80 at any rpm over idle.

Changed the lifters: intake on #3 were flowing a lot more oil than the others and were clacking and i could not adjust it, also some of the others were clicking and were also impossible to adjust. I've changed them to Comp Cams High Enegery part# 850-16. The CLACKING is gone but the clicking has moved to some of the other valves oil flow i now the same for all of them..

Also as a side note, i've changed the entire ignition system i chase of a rough idle but i now i think that this valve problem is the cause of it.

any ideas? I'm really at a loss here..

Thanks in adv!

Regds.
Daniel

Edit: Whhops it's a 92 automatic with 160k miles

 

first look. oil pressure is good.

when at idle , there very little oil coming through/up to lifter, this is normal. to adjust the valve i use the hot method Vavle cover off.. start at front and work towards the back. lossen each rocker untill a difinate click sound is noticable. slowwly tighten locking nut until sound is gone. Then add an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn(standard rockers may need 1/2 -5/8 turn), if you are using full rollers. (in my case i choose to to tighten 1/8 turn, however this does effect oil pressure at idle, but loosens the valve train, reliefing some tension/friction. I would recommend at least 1/4 turn for full rollers. note to check if oil is reaching the rockers, rev it to about 1500rpm(prepare for mess), you will see that all are being oiled. BTW is not that hard to clean the compartment...

#850-16 are better with 110lbs seat pressure. this seats the valve solid and would be the click your hear. normal! you must determine which click you are listening to...

as far as rough idle, make sure that the ignition system is functional, replace any parts as necessary. just note if you OVER TIGHTEN th e vavle train, causung valves not closing fully, adds up to rough idle

 

It's good to hear that the oil flow is normal, that had me a little worried.

About the seat pressure; Are you saying that the stock 85lbs seat pressure, ideally, is too weak for this lifter? and how can that be?

Also could you please explain what you mean by "seats the valve solid"? i don't quite follow

btw the car is a stock lt1 so i'm running the stock stamped steel rockers.

Daniel

 

Maybe you've got a couple of bad lifters? Oil pressure is fine.

 

850-16 lifter are no different than stock, in my opion, but should be used in conjuction with 110 springs, this combo is then good for a bit more rpm. the springs will snap the valve close with slightly more clicking niose, normal

steel stamped rockers....um...do a search to determine proper valve adjustment.. i really do not want to explain this area ,as there is too much contervesey involving adjustment procedure. use the manual for reference.