C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

A Few ?? - Water Pump Replacement

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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:04 PM
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Default Replaced Water Pump - Now Leaks, Suggestions

Ordered my parts from gmpartsdirect.com today, great savings over local and other mail orders. $168 delivered on OEM pump and gaskets.

First off 92 LT1, 6spd., 45k, original owner all original parts.

A few questions about install:

- Water Pump gaskets - put on dry or use a sealent. If yes what do you recommend.

- Thermostat - Same question, dry or sealent

- Temp Sensor - Use sealent ?

- How critical is it to remove knock sensor's when draining coolant, I am not doing a full system flush at this time. Current coolant has 10k on it.

I am replacing the water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, drive belt, thermostat. Anything else obvious I should do while in there.

I am keeping the original Opti at this point, don't have any of the symptoms (i.e. hard start, high rpm miss).

The GM Service Manual does not make mention of sealents when re-installing.

As always thanks to the best group around !!

Last edited by doveboat; Aug 5, 2005 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Updated Status
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by doveboat
Ordered my parts from gmpartsdirect.com today, great savings over local and other mail orders. $168 delivered on OEM pump and gaskets.

First off 92 LT1, 6spd., 45k, original owner all original parts.

A few questions about install:

- Water Pump gaskets - put on dry or use a sealent. If yes what do you recommend.

- Thermostat - Same question, dry or sealent

- Temp Sensor - Use sealent ?

- How critical is it to remove knock sensor's when draining coolant, I am not doing a full system flush at this time. Current coolant has 10k on it.

I am replacing the water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, drive belt, thermostat. Anything else obvious I should do while in there.

I am keeping the original Opti at this point, don't have any of the symptoms (i.e. hard start, high rpm miss).

The GM Service Manual does not make mention of sealents when re-installing.

As always thanks to the best group around !!
i only used sealant on the pump gaskets. i did mine about 1000mi ago and have not had any opti issues (i didnt change my opti either). really, a pretty straightforward job. good luck



randy
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:17 PM
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Did you use the RTV high heat ?
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:20 PM
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The new water pump will already have a thermostat installed.

Make sure you transfer the old water pump coupler to the new one, before the install.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 06:06 PM
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Thanks for the tip on the coupler.

Good news that there will be a new t stat with the pump.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mustbampeg
i only used sealant on the pump gaskets. i did mine about 1000mi ago and have not had any opti issues (i didnt change my opti either). really, a pretty straightforward job. good luck



randy
When I did mine i glued the gasket to the pump and let it set up then put sealer on the other side just before install.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
The new water pump will already have a thermostat installed.

Make sure you transfer the old water pump coupler to the new one, before the install.
Is there a trick to getting out the bottom 2 bolts on the drivers side ??

I have played with all the approaches I can think of from up top.

Thanks
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 10:12 PM
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i used aneorobic (sp?) sealer on mine. mainly to hold gasket in place. hardest part for me was cleaning old material off with a flashlight, mirror and scraper. have fun
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by doveboat
Is there a trick to getting out the bottom 2 bolts on the drivers side ??

I have played with all the approaches I can think of from up top.

Thanks
i just used a ratchet with an extension. i had to use one hand on the ratchet and the other to finagle the plug wires out of the way.
good luck




randy
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 10:31 PM
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I always install the gaskets dry and have never had a leak. GM doesn't make any mention of sealer because it's not required. If you read through your manuals, you'll see that where sealer is required they discuss it...i.e. intake manifold install, oil pan gasket install (in the corners), etc The key is to make sure all the sealing surfaces are clean and, upon reassembly, to torque the bolts to spec (35 lb/ft if I recall) to insure equal clamping force across the gasket. If you use GM gaskets, you'll see that the bolt "holes" in the gaskets are cut such that the water pump bolts will thread through the gasket. This retains the gasket in place during the install.

As mentioned previously, a new thermostat comes with the new pump. However, now is the time to switch to a 160* thermostat if you so desire. In traffic the car will still heat up, but "at speed" the car will run much cooler. On the LT1/4 the thermostat uses a reusable rubber gasket on the thermostat. A new 160* thermostat will come with that such that no sealer is required.

Use teflon sealer on the coolant temp sensor. As I recall, GM pre-applies a sealer to new sensors so it's good to go if you bought a new one.

Leave the knock sensors in.

To get to the water pump bolts on the driver's side, the job is much easier if you remove the four 10mm bolts that secure the ps pump to the accessory bracket. You can then move the ps pump enough to gain access to the bolts. A short extension and a universal joint are also helpful.
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
I always install the gaskets dry and have never had a leak. GM doesn't make any mention of sealer because it's not required. If you read through your manuals, you'll see that where sealer is required they discuss it...i.e. intake manifold install, oil pan gasket install (in the corners), etc The key is to make sure all the sealing surfaces are clean and, upon reassembly, to torque the bolts to spec (35 lb/ft if I recall) to insure equal clamping force across the gasket. If you use GM gaskets, you'll see that the bolt "holes" in the gaskets are cut such that the water pump bolts will thread through the gasket. This retains the gasket in place during the install.

As mentioned previously, a new thermostat comes with the new pump. However, now is the time to switch to a 160* thermostat if you so desire. In traffic the car will still heat up, but "at speed" the car will run much cooler. On the LT1/4 the thermostat uses a reusable rubber gasket on the thermostat. A new 160* thermostat will come with that such that no sealer is required.

Use teflon sealer on the coolant temp sensor. As I recall, GM pre-applies a sealer to new sensors so it's good to go if you bought a new one.

Leave the knock sensors in.

To get to the water pump bolts on the driver's side, the job is much easier if you remove the four 10mm bolts that secure the ps pump to the accessory bracket. You can then move the ps pump enough to gain access to the bolts. A short extension and a universal joint are also helpful.
Thanks Jim, took off the drive belt and upper rad hose and was able to get them out.

Thanks for the advice on gasket sealer, just not sure how I will get a torque wrench down there.
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by doveboat
Thanks Jim, took off the drive belt and upper rad hose and was able to get them out.

Thanks for the advice on gasket sealer, just not sure how I will get a torque wrench down there.
Depending on the specific bolt, you can use either a long socket or a short socket, or add a short extension into the mix. Honestly, other than the middle bolt by the ps pump, they're all very easy to get a torque wrench on and with the ps pump moved aside as I suggested, even the middle one is easy.
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 02:02 PM
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Since you don't intend to change the opti, make sure you cover it well with a rag or shop towel when you're ready to pull the water pump since there may be some coolant left in it.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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I started out to replace my opti with a vented opti. When I put the water pump back on, I used Red RTV on the gaskets and placed them on the pump. Let them sit for about 10 min to let the rtv get sticky.

Place another bead on the opposite sides and again let it set for about 10 min. Bolt up the pump and you're in business. I haven't had a drip since.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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I've been passing this out quite a bit lately, but here is the long version of how I did it (from tech tips)

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=231&TopicID=2
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:54 PM
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If your thermostat uses a gasket, yes to sealant. If it's an o-ring, no. I'm not too familiar with the set-up of an LT1, so forgive me for not knowing.
As for sealant, I use Indian Head. It comes in a little brown bottle. Apply a thin coat on the areas of the water pump that get gaskets, and to the thermostat housing. Let it tack up for a minute, place the gaskets on, and let it sit for a few minutes before putting the parts back on the engine. I think this stuff has been around almost as long as cars have, but that's because it works.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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Water pump finally came in today (11 Business Days), as was promised by gmpartsdirect.

Install went well, but when I started her up and have a pretty good leak from what looks like the bottom of the water pump area.

I have a few thoughts:

- I put the gaskets on dry (as per the service manual). Should I use a gasket sealer ? I cleaned the old gasket from the block pretty well, I think a combination of old gasket and no sealent is what did me in.

- Did not use torque wrench (tried, but awkward to get in there). Not sure how critical, I snugged them up pretty good using a 3/8 " drive.

- The coupler has a groove on the outside closer to one end, I reinstalled it the way it came off, grooved end towards pump. Service manual mentions a white line that I did not see.

So I have to take it apart again (grrrrrrr....) and take another shot, did I miss anything obvious here.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, I will disassemble tonight and see if time to reassemble. I will reclean gasket area on block and use sealent on gaskets.
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To A Few ?? - Water Pump Replacement

Old Aug 5, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by doveboat
Water pump finally came in today (11 Business Days), as was promised by gmpartsdirect.

Install went well, but when I started her up and have a pretty good leak from what looks like the bottom of the water pump area.

I have a few thoughts:

- I put the gaskets on dry (as per the service manual). Should I use a gasket sealer ? I cleaned the old gasket from the block pretty well, I think a combination of old gasket and no sealent is what did me in.

- Did not use torque wrench (tried, but awkward to get in there). Not sure how critical, I snugged them up pretty good using a 3/8 " drive.

- The coupler has a groove on the outside closer to one end, I reinstalled it the way it came off, grooved end towards pump. Service manual mentions a white line that I did not see.

So I have to take it apart again (grrrrrrr....) and take another shot, did I miss anything obvious here.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, I will disassemble tonight and see if time to reassemble. I will reclean gasket area on block and use sealent on gaskets.
I used Permatex Aircraft form-a-gasket on both sides of the gaskets. Also, don't forget to put sealant on the threads of the waterpump bolts.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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And use new gaskets, or you will be doing this a third time.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 10:32 PM
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It's about time you got that pump. Get it in so the "C4Vettes" can ride...

Call me,

Russ
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