A Few ?? - Water Pump Replacement
First off 92 LT1, 6spd., 45k, original owner all original parts.
A few questions about install:
- Water Pump gaskets - put on dry or use a sealent. If yes what do you recommend.
- Thermostat - Same question, dry or sealent
- Temp Sensor - Use sealent ?
- How critical is it to remove knock sensor's when draining coolant, I am not doing a full system flush at this time. Current coolant has 10k on it.
I am replacing the water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, drive belt, thermostat. Anything else obvious I should do while in there.
I am keeping the original Opti at this point, don't have any of the symptoms (i.e. hard start, high rpm miss).
The GM Service Manual does not make mention of sealents when re-installing.
As always thanks to the best group around !!
Last edited by doveboat; Aug 5, 2005 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Updated Status
First off 92 LT1, 6spd., 45k, original owner all original parts.
A few questions about install:
- Water Pump gaskets - put on dry or use a sealent. If yes what do you recommend.
- Thermostat - Same question, dry or sealent
- Temp Sensor - Use sealent ?
- How critical is it to remove knock sensor's when draining coolant, I am not doing a full system flush at this time. Current coolant has 10k on it.
I am replacing the water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, drive belt, thermostat. Anything else obvious I should do while in there.
I am keeping the original Opti at this point, don't have any of the symptoms (i.e. hard start, high rpm miss).
The GM Service Manual does not make mention of sealents when re-installing.
As always thanks to the best group around !!
randy
randy
When I did mine i glued the gasket to the pump and let it set up then put sealer on the other side just before install.
Make sure you transfer the old water pump coupler to the new one, before the install.
I have played with all the approaches I can think of from up top.
Thanks
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I have played with all the approaches I can think of from up top.
Thanks
good luck
randy
The key is to make sure all the sealing surfaces are clean and, upon reassembly, to torque the bolts to spec (35 lb/ft if I recall) to insure equal clamping force across the gasket. If you use GM gaskets, you'll see that the bolt "holes" in the gaskets are cut such that the water pump bolts will thread through the gasket. This retains the gasket in place during the install.As mentioned previously, a new thermostat comes with the new pump. However, now is the time to switch to a 160* thermostat if you so desire. In traffic the car will still heat up, but "at speed" the car will run much cooler. On the LT1/4 the thermostat uses a reusable rubber gasket on the thermostat. A new 160* thermostat will come with that such that no sealer is required.
Use teflon sealer on the coolant temp sensor. As I recall, GM pre-applies a sealer to new sensors so it's good to go if you bought a new one.
Leave the knock sensors in.
To get to the water pump bolts on the driver's side, the job is much easier if you remove the four 10mm bolts that secure the ps pump to the accessory bracket. You can then move the ps pump enough to gain access to the bolts. A short extension and a universal joint are also helpful.
The key is to make sure all the sealing surfaces are clean and, upon reassembly, to torque the bolts to spec (35 lb/ft if I recall) to insure equal clamping force across the gasket. If you use GM gaskets, you'll see that the bolt "holes" in the gaskets are cut such that the water pump bolts will thread through the gasket. This retains the gasket in place during the install.As mentioned previously, a new thermostat comes with the new pump. However, now is the time to switch to a 160* thermostat if you so desire. In traffic the car will still heat up, but "at speed" the car will run much cooler. On the LT1/4 the thermostat uses a reusable rubber gasket on the thermostat. A new 160* thermostat will come with that such that no sealer is required.
Use teflon sealer on the coolant temp sensor. As I recall, GM pre-applies a sealer to new sensors so it's good to go if you bought a new one.
Leave the knock sensors in.
To get to the water pump bolts on the driver's side, the job is much easier if you remove the four 10mm bolts that secure the ps pump to the accessory bracket. You can then move the ps pump enough to gain access to the bolts. A short extension and a universal joint are also helpful.
Thanks for the advice on gasket sealer, just not sure how I will get a torque wrench down there.
Thanks for the advice on gasket sealer, just not sure how I will get a torque wrench down there.


Place another bead on the opposite sides and again let it set for about 10 min. Bolt up the pump and you're in business. I haven't had a drip since.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=231&TopicID=2
As for sealant, I use Indian Head. It comes in a little brown bottle. Apply a thin coat on the areas of the water pump that get gaskets, and to the thermostat housing. Let it tack up for a minute, place the gaskets on, and let it sit for a few minutes before putting the parts back on the engine. I think this stuff has been around almost as long as cars have, but that's because it works.
Install went well, but when I started her up and have a pretty good leak from what looks like the bottom of the water pump area.
I have a few thoughts:
- I put the gaskets on dry (as per the service manual). Should I use a gasket sealer ? I cleaned the old gasket from the block pretty well, I think a combination of old gasket and no sealent is what did me in.
- Did not use torque wrench (tried, but awkward to get in there). Not sure how critical, I snugged them up pretty good using a 3/8 " drive.
- The coupler has a groove on the outside closer to one end, I reinstalled it the way it came off, grooved end towards pump. Service manual mentions a white line that I did not see.
So I have to take it apart again (grrrrrrr....) and take another shot, did I miss anything obvious here.
Any thoughts would be appreciated, I will disassemble tonight and see if time to reassemble. I will reclean gasket area on block and use sealent on gaskets.
Install went well, but when I started her up and have a pretty good leak from what looks like the bottom of the water pump area.
I have a few thoughts:
- I put the gaskets on dry (as per the service manual). Should I use a gasket sealer ? I cleaned the old gasket from the block pretty well, I think a combination of old gasket and no sealent is what did me in.
- Did not use torque wrench (tried, but awkward to get in there). Not sure how critical, I snugged them up pretty good using a 3/8 " drive.
- The coupler has a groove on the outside closer to one end, I reinstalled it the way it came off, grooved end towards pump. Service manual mentions a white line that I did not see.
So I have to take it apart again (grrrrrrr....) and take another shot, did I miss anything obvious here.
Any thoughts would be appreciated, I will disassemble tonight and see if time to reassemble. I will reclean gasket area on block and use sealent on gaskets.












