BRAKES:baer vs brembo vs ?
thanks in advance
bill
i like the Wilwood setups, just as good as Baer but they're not as well known so they aren't as outragiously priced





i like the Wilwood setups, just as good as Baer but they're not as well known so they aren't as outragiously priced
www.precisionbrakescompany.com
Brian
www.precisionbrakescompany.com
Brian
http://corvettefever.com/techarticle..._vette_brakes/
There is a guy on the forum who makes the adapters for the C5 conversion (Eddie Salinas) and will even point out a good place to get Z06 calipers for cheap. I planned on doing this conversion and if later I need more, I was going to use a C5 upgrade caliper. My 2 centavos.
If you want slightly improved braking for the street, a simple pad upgrade is fine. something like PFC Z-rated pads.
If you want a little more, you can swap up to GS calipers and 13" rotors on front or move to a C5 setup.
If you do autocross, any of the above setups will work very well.
If you want to do roadracing, the above setups will work up to a point as long as you install cooling ducts, but if you want to get serious with it, you'll need to go with a full race-ready caliper up front and maybe a rear upgrade.
If you just want something that looks cool, then it really doesn't matter -- just make sure you don't end up with something that works great and stops terribly or unbalances the car.
I have the Wilwood 6-piston GN3 front setup from DRM with my front calipers relocated to the rear. I ran it for the first time at Road America earlier this year and it's simply amazing! Let me be clear, though, for the street or autocross, there's ABSOLUTELY NO REASON to go with a setup like this (aside from the fact that it looks cool
) My car is about 20% track and 80% street. This kit is probably overkill, but I got a great deal on it so I'm happy.Overall cost for my setup was:
DRM Wilwood GN3 Calipers, brackets, rotors, hats, brackets and lines $1100 (I got a super deal buying the kit slightly used from someone who didn't like it for the street). The normal price is around $2000
Rear mounting brackets (to relocate front calipers) $450 from Melrose T-Tops. DRM also sells them, but cost is slightly higher.
Other considerations:
Pad and rotor costs. Many of the aftermarket systems use larger rotors which can be more expensive. Conversely, some of them (like the C5 setups) use rotors and pads that are even cheaper than stock C4 parts. Make sure you consider the full operating cost in your decision.
Modifications to the vehicle. Some of the aftermarket kits require cutting or modification to suspension parts. For example, the DRM kit requires cutting the mounting ears off the spindles. No big deal unless you want to switch back to stock at some point.
Wheel fitment. Many of the large 4 or 6 piston aftermarket calipers won't fit behind sawblade wheels.
Brake Bias. Whenever you alter the force % between front and rear, you change the braking balance. To do it right, you'll need a bias valve so you can fine-tune the setup. I don't have one on mine, but I really need one; that's my next mod. ABS will pretty much save you from a severe incident (like rear brakes locking up), but the car won't feel right and you won't get the full potential from your expensive upgrade. If you're just doing a minor upgrade like a C5 kit, it's not a real issue.
master cylinder. You MAY need to get a larger master cylinder if you go with a very large caliper. I'm still using the stock one, but it's really up to personal preference -- pedel position and firmness.
Parking brake. Most of the aftermarket kits cause you to lose the parking brake. I personally don't care, but some do. Several companies offer add-on parking brake kits, but they're not cheap.
Who will do the work? If you're going to have someone else do the install, make sure you get a good estimate first. There will likely be several minor things nobody told you about which will add hours / cost.
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I think I'm gonna wait for the availability of the C6 Z06 calipers...then I can still have an emergency brake. Get a nice 2-piece rotor...bias controller...have a brake system that stops on a dime and gives you 9 1/2 cents change back.
All the upgraded brakes need to have clearance...so if you don't have wheels that will work, you'll need to change them as well. May as well get 18", as the performance tires are going to go away in 17" soon...didn't take long before everyone dropped 16" tires like a hot rock.
What you need to be aware of with the racing setups is they typically don't have dust boots, etc. on the pistons for road driving. In racing applications, the boots are burned away so they don't bother with them. What will happen is you'll get contamination in the lines and possibly scored piston liners. Racers don't have this problem as we typically bleed systems out after every event, so I have new fluid in my brakes all the time.
MarkBychowski hit the nail on the head with his post...more issues than JUST the brakes to be considered when upgrading the system. I have 18" wheels/tires already, so I have no clearance issues there. I already have the bias spring installed, so that isn't an issue RIGHT NOW. But when you go from a 2-piston to a 4-piston, the bias will completely change, so a bias valve will need to be installed.
Depending on the size of the pistons...you will need to replace the master cylinder....it's all the little things that get you.















