Need Help w/Datamaster data file
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
Need Help w/Datamaster data file
I have a scan of my car from last night.
If anyone has time - can you look and see if you see anything obviously wrong with it.
Scan File
I did this in my garage the ambient temp was 100deg. f.
1988 Auto Trans.
Thanks!
If anyone has time - can you look and see if you see anything obviously wrong with it.
Scan File
I did this in my garage the ambient temp was 100deg. f.
1988 Auto Trans.
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
This is the factory chip. I think the 42 is set from when I set the timing after I pulled and replaced the heads two weeks ago. The Service Engine light is not on currently. I will find a way to power my laptop(battery is shot) and drive the car around.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 108
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Originally Posted by brookman
I think the 42 is set from when I set the timing after I pulled and replaced the heads two weeks ago.
Originally Posted by brookman
I will find a way to power my laptop(battery is shot) and drive the car around.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
new scan file from 2 aug 2005 at 5pm
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
You get a second fault code when you turn ignition off (at end of data file), #46 which is VATS fail. No idea why, I thought DTCs should not be set at ignition off. My 91 does not set a #46 like this. Perhaps someone else knows if this is common behaviour for the older ECMs?
You get up to 14.9 deg knock retard during WOT, a little high I would have thought. During a good run mine is 1-2 deg and on a "bad" more like 3-4 deg. I have about 1 or 2 knock counts (at the most) during WOT. Perhaps one of the more experienced tuners out there can give you some good advice.
BLM in the range 114 to 134 is not so bad, it was a stock chip right? Scan ID 7871, that would be the ABTT bin. Do you have this code on the chip?
Hope this helps!
You get up to 14.9 deg knock retard during WOT, a little high I would have thought. During a good run mine is 1-2 deg and on a "bad" more like 3-4 deg. I have about 1 or 2 knock counts (at the most) during WOT. Perhaps one of the more experienced tuners out there can give you some good advice.
BLM in the range 114 to 134 is not so bad, it was a stock chip right? Scan ID 7871, that would be the ABTT bin. Do you have this code on the chip?
Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
I always assumed that this was the stock chip. The only reason I would question it is that VATS is not functional on this car. I have normal keys. I have not dug around under the dash to see if the wires to the tumbler have a resistor stuck in them.
As you probably noticed - the air was hot yesterday and I don't remember what grade of gas I put in it last time I filled up.
I am concerned about the engine temp. The primary fan is wired on all the time (has been since I bought it). It has a 180deg thermostat in it.
If I get time I am going to check the base timing tonight to see if it is at 6 where I thought I left it after the top end rebuild.
As you probably noticed - the air was hot yesterday and I don't remember what grade of gas I put in it last time I filled up.
I am concerned about the engine temp. The primary fan is wired on all the time (has been since I bought it). It has a 180deg thermostat in it.
If I get time I am going to check the base timing tonight to see if it is at 6 where I thought I left it after the top end rebuild.
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 108
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Could not find ABTT bin but I compared your SA at WOT to the ABTR (88 man) and it appeared to be stock SA, at least as far as I could tell from your log.
Mine will hit about 190 deg F at long idling during summer time. Stock will run over 200 deg F so I think your temperature is fairly normal. Yes I noticed the IAT. Mine is lower but I removed the throttle body heater and my lower engine will help a little too.
I had some false knock problem with mine. Worn out water pump was one problem, the other was in-correct valve lash. I even had some knock counts at idle. Didn't see any of those false knocks in your log. Check initial timing and fill her up with high octane petrol sounds like a good idea.
Best of luck
Mine will hit about 190 deg F at long idling during summer time. Stock will run over 200 deg F so I think your temperature is fairly normal. Yes I noticed the IAT. Mine is lower but I removed the throttle body heater and my lower engine will help a little too.
I had some false knock problem with mine. Worn out water pump was one problem, the other was in-correct valve lash. I even had some knock counts at idle. Didn't see any of those false knocks in your log. Check initial timing and fill her up with high octane petrol sounds like a good idea.
Best of luck