Crank / Rods / Pistions
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Fort Worth TX
Crank / Rods / Pistions
So ive decided to pull the motor and do the whole thing from the bottom up. So any suggestions on Crank, Rods, & Pistions. I dont want to stroke it, but I do want the best for my baby.
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Do you need the best? If the best is needed, I would suggest a Crower billet crank. They are a mere $2,300 dollars. A $1,300 set of Oliver rods would work well. Top it off with a $1,000 set of custom JE pistons and you should be set.
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by ian1992red
So ive decided to pull the motor and do the whole thing from the bottom up.
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Fort Worth TX
Nothing is wrong with them, I just plan on making in the 400hp range and want a bottom end that hold up to some serious usage. From what I have seen I can get the whole set up for $500 with the link that was provided. I dont speak engine so would some one explane to me what bore stroke and all these # mean. I know how a motor works and how to assemble it, but the mathmatics I havent learned yet.
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Originally Posted by ian1992red
Nothing is wrong with them, I just plan on making in the 400hp range and want a bottom end that hold up to some serious usage. From what I have seen I can get the whole set up for $500 with the link that was provided. I dont speak engine so would some one explane to me what bore stroke and all these # mean. I know how a motor works and how to assemble it, but the mathmatics I havent learned yet.
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
Originally Posted by ian1992red
I dont speak engine so would some one explane to me what bore stroke and all these # mean. I know how a motor works and how to assemble it, but the mathmatics I havent learned yet.
RACE ON!!!
PS. $500.00 will not buy you, "the best for my baby."
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Fort Worth TX
You are correct $500 won't buy the best, but I don't plan on making over 650 hp so what do I need a crank that is rated for that kind of power for? I just want to get good quality parts that have been proven.
This is what I saw on the website:
Sb Chevy 350 Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft - 3.480" Stroke, 2pc Seal $ 165.00
Chevy 350 W/ 5.7" Rods, -4.8cc Flat Top Keith Black Forged Pistons
Options: Bore size: .030 $ 332.93
Subtotal: $ 497.93
My mathmatical question is what do the different #'s mean ie: 3.480" stroke, -4.8cc, and .030 bore, and how do they relate to eachother and my engine.
This is what I saw on the website:
Sb Chevy 350 Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft - 3.480" Stroke, 2pc Seal $ 165.00
Chevy 350 W/ 5.7" Rods, -4.8cc Flat Top Keith Black Forged Pistons
Options: Bore size: .030 $ 332.93
Subtotal: $ 497.93
My mathmatical question is what do the different #'s mean ie: 3.480" stroke, -4.8cc, and .030 bore, and how do they relate to eachother and my engine.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
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From: Glen Burnie MD
Ok, first things first. You might want to learn more about your engine by reading some of the tech notes on this site.
- You've got a 1-piece seal (2-piece ended in 1985) so that crank won't work.
- Unless you're going to a larger cylinder bore, you don't need .030 overbore pistons.
- A cast steel crank shaft is no better than what you have, which is probably fine. You'll be able to put a serious amount of horsepower through it.
This is not a project to enter into lightly. I learned that the hard way, so I'm just warning you... do a LOT of research ahead of time, and know what you already have BEFORE you start looking at new stuff. It'll save you a lot of time.
[RICHR]
- You've got a 1-piece seal (2-piece ended in 1985) so that crank won't work.
- Unless you're going to a larger cylinder bore, you don't need .030 overbore pistons.
- A cast steel crank shaft is no better than what you have, which is probably fine. You'll be able to put a serious amount of horsepower through it.
This is not a project to enter into lightly. I learned that the hard way, so I'm just warning you... do a LOT of research ahead of time, and know what you already have BEFORE you start looking at new stuff. It'll save you a lot of time.
[RICHR]
Large Impressive Member
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
They offer one helluva deal. For $7.95, you can purchase "free shopping". I wonder what other freebies you can BUY?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
You can get a Scat 4340 crank for just over $500 bucks; it's a pretty stout piece. Or, Calies makes a Dragonslayer crank that's a few undred more. Not going to break that! As CorvettekidNC posted Crower makes some real trick pieces too, in all different weights. They are pricy. but if you want the best...How deep are your pockets? Make sure and get a high quality forgeds piston such as SRP/J&E, Mahle, etc. Many of these come with a trick antifriction coating on the skirts. Ceramic coating is available too. Sky's the limit pretty much.
Make a gameplan, set your budget and build it.
Make a gameplan, set your budget and build it.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
I didn't have any complaints about paying a $7.95 handling fee to get a crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings delivered, and at a very good price.
RACE ON!!!
Large Impressive Member
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
I'm not saying that is a bad deal, but when I ran across the banner, headline, or whatever, proclaiming, "FREE SHIPPING!...Only $7.95", I had to laugh at the irony of it all. I'll bet for $500.00 you can get a "free" crankshaft. Plus $7.95 for free shipping, of course. I guess you had to be there.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by ian1992red
You are correct $500 won't buy the best, but I don't plan on making over 650 hp so what do I need a crank that is rated for that kind of power for?
Originally Posted by ian1992red
This is what I saw on the website:
Sb Chevy 350 Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft - 3.480" Stroke, 2pc Seal $ 165.00
Chevy 350 W/ 5.7" Rods, -4.8cc Flat Top Keith Black Forged Pistons
Options: Bore size: .030 $ 332.93
Subtotal: $ 497.93
Sb Chevy 350 Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft - 3.480" Stroke, 2pc Seal $ 165.00
Chevy 350 W/ 5.7" Rods, -4.8cc Flat Top Keith Black Forged Pistons
Options: Bore size: .030 $ 332.93
Subtotal: $ 497.93
Originally Posted by ian1992red
My mathmatical question is what do the different #'s mean ie: 3.480" stroke, -4.8cc, and .030 bore, and how do they relate to eachother and my engine.
Originally Posted by ian1992red
I know how a motor works and how to assemble it, but the mathmatics I havent learned yet.
RACE ON!!!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
I know what you're saying, I just felt like giving you some crap!
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
You might benefit from a book on SBCs but Dave Emanuel or Dave Vizard; they explain about parts selection for our SBCs.
When doing a rebuild I think that you will want to have the cylinders align bored and honed and the block decked as well as some other machining. Also you will need to decide on compression ratio you want and do some math on what various decisions, like head work, will bring.
When doing the math I find it convenient to change the dimensions to metric first. FYI the basic calculations of interest are:
CR=Vt/(Vf), where Vt=Vf+Vd
Vt=total volume
Vf=fixed volume (chamber volume+deck volume+gasket volume+piston top dish volume+volume from piston top to compression ring)
Vd=displacement volume
volume = length * area
area = (diameter/2)**2 * 3.14159
Have fun with the rebuild, it sounds like a fun project.
When doing a rebuild I think that you will want to have the cylinders align bored and honed and the block decked as well as some other machining. Also you will need to decide on compression ratio you want and do some math on what various decisions, like head work, will bring.
When doing the math I find it convenient to change the dimensions to metric first. FYI the basic calculations of interest are:
CR=Vt/(Vf), where Vt=Vf+Vd
Vt=total volume
Vf=fixed volume (chamber volume+deck volume+gasket volume+piston top dish volume+volume from piston top to compression ring)
Vd=displacement volume
volume = length * area
area = (diameter/2)**2 * 3.14159
Have fun with the rebuild, it sounds like a fun project.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
What was so awful with what was in there? Are the crank and rods unusable?
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
your friend
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Friend...THIS!!!
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!