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I am waiting to hear back from the guy.. I want to go pick it up soemtime later this week. Any advice on the intake and heads? I've been pricing stuff from Summit... Want some nice heads - probably go with a super ram. I am a little concerned about the ECM tho - Dont think my 84ecm will be up to the challenge...
Gasket bore will also play a small part in your compression ratio, and cam selection will impact your effective compression ratio. If you get a cam with more overlap it will bleed some of that cylinder pressure off.
Are these 400 blocks roller or flat tappet? 2 piece or 1 piece rear main seal, 2 bolt main or 4 bolt? I'm guessing the external physical dimensions are exactly the same as a standard SBC but just the bore x stroke is larger.
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Originally Posted by quiksilver458
400 Small Block 509 Casting
.030 Over
Is this a 'new/never-run' engine? I ask because the max a 400 can be safely taken over stock bore is .045". This means you have one more bore...and a SMALL one at that...left in the block.
Caveat Emptor.
Want some nice heads - probably go with a super ram. I am a little concerned about the ECM tho - Dont think my 84ecm will be up to the challenge...
You WILL be changing computers. The Super Ram and just about anything else worthwhile has 8 injectors. Regardless of all the other things wrong with the '84 ECM, it will only fire 2 injectors. You might consider a DFI, or the like and an engine wiring harness to match.
Is this a 'new/never-run' engine? I ask because the max a 400 can be safely taken over stock bore is .045". This means you have one more bore...and a SMALL one at that...left in the block.
Caveat Emptor.
Larry
code5coupe
All machine work was recently done. The motor has not been assembled/ fired since the machining....
All 400's cam with flat tappet cams. You can use a retro fit hydraulic roller if you don't mind spending a few bucks. These were two piece rear main seal motors fwiw.
I have hear you can use a standard roller cam in these and use the lifters out of a 2.8( ???) Chevy v6. Don't know all the details or part numbers but it came from a pretty reliable source. That is a cost effective way to go roller
All 400's cam with flat tappet cams. You can use a retro fit hydraulic roller if you don't mind spending a few bucks. These were two piece rear main seal motors fwiw.
I have hear you can use a standard roller cam in these and use the lifters out of a 2.8( ???) Chevy v6. Don't know all the details or part numbers but it came from a pretty reliable source. That is a cost effective way to go roller
Would you have to do any clearancing/cutting/grinding? How much more of a gain would a dyno see if this conversion is done correctly?
he is talking about converting to a roller cam. he is asking how much hp is to be gained and if you need to do any clearancing on the block to use roller lifters.
there is nothing cost effective to convert an older block to a roller. the best way to do this is to buy the retro lifters and pre 87 style cam. say $300 for cam and $375 for lifters. but you will benifit from more hp but a cant imagine more that 20.
he is talking about converting to a roller cam. he is asking how much hp is to be gained and if you need to do any clearancing on the block to use roller lifters..
You may be right about that. Nowhere did he mention cams or lifters. What he DID do was paste a quote answering his previous question as to whether 400 blocks were 1 or 2 piece seals and if they were roller blocks or not. Fairly obvious for a block last produced in 1980.
Originally Posted by mos90
there is nothing cost effective to convert an older block to a roller.
Except for the cost of the lifters. There would be no difference in power between OE roller lifters and aftermarket retro roller lifters.
the hp benifit i meant was over a flat tappet cam. i think there is some to be gained going to a roller. but a roller lifter is a roller lifter so you are right in that aspect.
The gain in power of a roller cam over a flat tappet cam is NOT mostly due to the reduced friction, but mostly in the more aggressive lobe the circular cam follower can keep up with. Therefore, the power to be gained by a roller cam over a flat tappet cam is entirely dependent on the cams being compared. It would be entirely possible for a roller cam to be ground to exactly match the valve motion of a given flat tappet cam, for a zero power gain.
OE roller tappets and retro roller tappets differ greatly in price. That is the reason some consider the conversion in non-roller blocks. As you noted one would have no more power than the other. Either lifter would run on either type of camshaft equally as well.
I'm guessing converting a 400 SBC to a roller block would cost me some extra pocket change. There's actually a 400 bare block in the shop right now that is getting honed and bored .030 over. The guy working on it said he'd want $1000 for the assembled short block and $800 extra to convert it to a roller. Sound good price-wise or is it not a good deal?
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