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Today I fire up the car and I notice that it stumbles and sputters alot for a few seconds and the service engine soon light comes on. I have noticed smoke coming from the right side(true duals) at wot, black-grey smoke from fuel.. not oil. The smoke started after I replaced the fuel pump. The ses light had been coming on after the car was run at the same speed/rpm for 15 or so minutes like on the freeway or something, but would go off when I stopped and restarted the car, only to return after more time on the freeway.It is noticeably harder to start after it has warmed up. These problems also started after the fuel pump replacement. Any advice is welcome, the car seems to run fine other than these issues.85 auto 196000 new plugs,wires dist cap,rotor,water pump,fuel pump,transmission,fuel filter.Get something fixed,something else breaks !!
I simple check for a lot of problems...check the EGR vavle...take it from me I chased a problem for over a month before I did that....the damn EGR valve has a bad habit of throwing curves at you when it comes to problem solving
Look under the driver's side kick panel. There should be a little ALDL cable plug. Turn the key till you can see the dash light up but don't start the engine. Jump terminal A (ground, black wire) to terminal B (diagnostic, another colored wire, right beside it). Keep it there and interpret the codes by the SES light flashes.
First code should be 12. Its a default code meaning you're in the diagnostic mode. The radiator fan should turn on, at least it did on mine 2 months ago pullin codes. It will look like beep......beep..beep. That code 12 will flash 3 times. Then codes should start to follow and you'll see other codes from smallest to largest. Example, if you have a code 33, it will flash like beep..beep..beep......beep..beep..beep. That code will flash 3 times. Remember stored codes flash 3 times until the end which will go back to code 12 and repeat again. You should have a paper clip handy for this. Good luck, keep us posted!
I have not disconnected the battery since replacing the fuel pump or the water pump.I will clear the codes and see what it says then. Thanks all for the help. I'm growing weary of the constant repairs,I have only run two tanks of gas out since I've had it.
Code 15: Coolant Temp sensor. Replace CTS, cost is $7 from Advance Auto
Code 33: MAF sensor, GM/sec high. The 85 uses a MAS module instead of relays for the MAF. Check your TPS (throttle position sensor) voltage reading. It should be .54v +/- .017v
Code 54: Fuel pump circuit, voltage low. Try replacing the Fuel pump relay. After doing the above, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, reconnect and take out for a drive to see if the codes return.
Last night I went out and cleared the codes, but I did'nt get a chance to drive it.Today I drove it to work and noticed new problems. It shifted at much different intervals than normal,much higher rpms and it would'nt wind out before shifting if I held it to the floor. I also notice the fan running constantly. When I returned home I pulled the codes again and 15 was the only one this time.I will replace the coolant temp sensor and repeat. Thanks for all the help guys. Morley: I don't have a voltmeter and don't know how to read it if I did. Always looking for a reason to buy new tools though !!
What fueal pressure does it have??? You say most of this occured after the pump was changed??? 1st step in diagnostics is to get a history and go from there.And since this happened after th pump was changed, that would be the 1st place to look at..What is pressure with key on? Does the pressure drop or hold the pressure?? What pressure does it have at idle? And what does the pressure do when you unplug the manifold vacumm reference line to the regulator???
Good luck.
Replaced coolant temperature sensor this evening and now all is well. No more smoke, fuel vapors, starts right up,no stumble at all, I have'nt driven it, just let it warm up good, so I don't know about the shift problem. Considering all other problems cleared up that probably has too. I never would have thought all that stuff was linked together with a coolant sensor. Thanks all for the advice..