Engine rebuild advise - what needed?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Engine rebuild advise - what needed?
Hey guys!
I am currently playing with two options for the motor rebuild in my 84. The option that is in question is as follows.
I plan to take the stock block and heads and rebuild it. I simply want the car only to be a daily driver. It does not have to have crazy power by any means.
Aside from the machine work to the block. What other work needs to be done? What new parts will i need to purchase for the rebuild?
I was going to rebuild the heads with new lifters, springs and seals. The motor would get a new cam, ground crank, and all new bearings. There would also be a new oil pump and timing chain. Am I leaving anything out?
I would use the old push rods, rods, and pistons if possible. Or are those something that are recommended for replacement. Please give what ever feedback necessary. I need to get this thing rolling starting next week.
Thank you!
I am currently playing with two options for the motor rebuild in my 84. The option that is in question is as follows.
I plan to take the stock block and heads and rebuild it. I simply want the car only to be a daily driver. It does not have to have crazy power by any means.
Aside from the machine work to the block. What other work needs to be done? What new parts will i need to purchase for the rebuild?
I was going to rebuild the heads with new lifters, springs and seals. The motor would get a new cam, ground crank, and all new bearings. There would also be a new oil pump and timing chain. Am I leaving anything out?
I would use the old push rods, rods, and pistons if possible. Or are those something that are recommended for replacement. Please give what ever feedback necessary. I need to get this thing rolling starting next week.
Thank you!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
If the car has any miles at all plan on boring and new pistons. The best way is to tear it down then see what all is needed. One thing to keep in mind is if the car has high miles and has ever over heated those 624 cast heads have a good chance of being cracked.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
I was anticipating the boring of cylinders. Am not sure how much though. As far as the over heating goes. The car hasnt overheated - but has got very hot before on account of thermostat sticking..
The plan is to have engine removed tuesday and torn down. I will have a good idea then. I do want to order some new pieces now to spend up the process though. Summitracing sells some Federal Mogul rebuild kits for just under 400 bux. I was considering one of these - pending the outcome of machine work on cylinders.
If I do come out of this with cracked heads - I will probably replace them with some 113's most likely.
Thanx!
The plan is to have engine removed tuesday and torn down. I will have a good idea then. I do want to order some new pieces now to spend up the process though. Summitracing sells some Federal Mogul rebuild kits for just under 400 bux. I was considering one of these - pending the outcome of machine work on cylinders.
If I do come out of this with cracked heads - I will probably replace them with some 113's most likely.
Thanx!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,475
Likes: 270
From: Kingman AZ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Cruise-In VIII
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
After the teardown get with a reputable machine shop and tell them what you told us here. Follow their advice. They have been there, done that and got the tatoo.
I rebuilt a C3 a few years ago and although it turned out good, it could have gone better. I bought a mixture of parts from different suppliers and found out from the machinist that they could have gotten parts for me through their shop. These parts would have been matched for each other and probably would have cost less that I spent by shopping around.
I rebuilt a C3 a few years ago and although it turned out good, it could have gone better. I bought a mixture of parts from different suppliers and found out from the machinist that they could have gotten parts for me through their shop. These parts would have been matched for each other and probably would have cost less that I spent by shopping around.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Originally Posted by corvetteronw
After the teardown get with a reputable machine shop and tell them what you told us here. Follow their advice. They have been there, done that and got the tatoo.
I rebuilt a C3 a few years ago and although it turned out good, it could have gone better. I bought a mixture of parts from different suppliers and found out from the machinist that they could have gotten parts for me through their shop. These parts would have been matched for each other and probably would have cost less that I spent by shopping around.
I rebuilt a C3 a few years ago and although it turned out good, it could have gone better. I bought a mixture of parts from different suppliers and found out from the machinist that they could have gotten parts for me through their shop. These parts would have been matched for each other and probably would have cost less that I spent by shopping around.
That makes perfect sense... I will certainly hold off until I've spoke with a shop. As of right now - I have someone in mind who will put a warranty on the long block once the rebuild has taken place. Quote I received through email will cost $1,420. This will be for their stage 3 rebuild which provides upgraded cam, valve springs, lifters, timing chain and high vol. oil pump. Rebuild will be block machining, new bearings, pistons ect.. It sounds like a pretty good deal to me - because the long block will be backed with a 3year, 36k mile warranty. I cant beat that..
Keep the advice coming!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by quiksilver458
That makes perfect sense... I will certainly hold off until I've spoke with a shop. As of right now - I have someone in mind who will put a warranty on the long block once the rebuild has taken place. Quote I received through email will cost $1,420. This will be for their stage 3 rebuild which provides upgraded cam, valve springs, lifters, timing chain and high vol. oil pump. Rebuild will be block machining, new bearings, pistons ect.. It sounds like a pretty good deal to me - because the long block will be backed with a 3year, 36k mile warranty. I cant beat that..
Keep the advice coming!!
Keep the advice coming!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Something does not sound right here that price is not really good it is outrageous I cannot believe it. Something does not add up that would not cover the labor let alone pistons bearings and cam.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
In 1 year I bought / rebuilt 10 engines. The best option was to keep the heads/block/crank/sheetmetal and replace all the rest of the parts,, except when a roller cam / lifters were in place. Replacement always included a bored block etc. However, you can do a good rebuild if you measure everything. If the block is w/in specs you don't have to bore,, same for piston replacement. But on the cam I would consider replacement and use the roller tappet system if not origionally installed. It is possible for the price you have to be a fair price given the shop specialty is for that engine. Walk through the shop and look at their work in progress. If they can show you how they measure the valve guide / stem clearance then check the crankshaft machine to see if the oil holes are chamfered. These aren't the be all solutions but it is an indicator of a clean well run shop with attention to detail. I would want the shop inspection at time of delivery prior to rebuild unless they are major rebuilder that has a local reputation. Best of luck. Remember warranty is only good if the shop is reputable.
99 Nassau Blue.
99 Nassau Blue.
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Something does not sound right here that price is not really good it is outrageous I cannot believe it. Something does not add up that would not cover the labor let alone pistons bearings and cam.
