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How much of the rear end do you actually have to take out to get the drive axel out? Is it also a good idea to replace other things, as long as you have it apart, that will likely need replacing in the near future? Oh...I forgot to mention I have to pepleace the U Joints on the drive axel. I'm getting clunks and ticks as the car moves.
If by "drive axle" you are referring to the half shaft that has the two u joints in it, the minimum is as follows. The bolt from the spring to the knuckle, the tie rod end, at the knuckle, and the strut rod at the knuckle. After the two u joint straps are removed from both ends of the half shaft you can raise the knuckle for clearance to get the half shaft out. By disconnecting at the knuckle, you avoid messing with sensitive alignment settings. The adjustments CAN be marked and returned to where they were, as per the service manual, but this avoids the whole issue. It's not a bad job.
CFI-EFI stated "After the two u joint straps are removed from both ends of the half shaft you can raise the knuckle for clearance to get the half shaft out"
I have the tie rood and spring disconnected. I do not have the strut as of yet. You refer to the "two u joint straps". To what are you refering to? Is there something on the u joints themselves known as straps, as I don't see anything I would call a strap? I've never messed with any powertrain stuff, so I appreciate your help. I do have a Haynes manual, but not the Helms Manual. It has been helpful, but like your post, assumes I know the terminalogy, which I don't
Thanks for you help!
Two u joint caps at each end of the half shaft are secured to the diff yoke at one end and the spindle yoke at the other end. There are two bolts for each strap. They take a 5/16" wrench if I remember correctly. Two straps at each end of the shaft and two bolts per strap. You'll see them when you get in there.
Although you don't have to tear that deep into it (but the manual advises that you do) to change the wheel bearings, now would be an excellent time if you can foresee them becoming an issue.
I have disconnected all the CFI said, and jacked up the knuckle, yet I can not get the half shaft out. What am I doing wrong?
That is a little vague. WHY won't it come out? Is it catching on something? Is something in the way, blocking it? If you have truly disconnected everything I mentioned, there is NO reason for it to not come out.
RACE ON!!!
PS. The fact that it is an '84 and has the L83 Crossfire engine, in no way influences this job.
Ok, now...I was not supposed to remove the bolt that holds the rod that goes to the camber bolt was I?(not the camber bolt itself, but the one at the knuckle). It is still very tight in there, and I can not even pry it out, or move it. I discunnected the tie Rod on top, the strut rod, and the rod that connects to the spring. Did I miss something?
The rod to the spring? Or this rod? "I was not supposed to remove the bolt that holds the rod that goes to the camber bolt was I?" If neither, WHAT rod? It is getting a little difficult to follow you.
There is a rod that runs down to the spring. It has a rubber thing on the ends. That has been removed. There is a rod which looks like a tie rod that runs towards the back of the car and then turns towards the other side. This connects at the top. this rod is disconnected. The strut has a rod on the top and bottom. It is disconnected at the bottom. The arm that runs from the camber bolt over is still totally connected. I have removed all 4 ujoint straps. I can not move the half shaft at all, other than to rotate it around.
There is a rod that runs down to the spring. It has a rubber thing on the ends. That has been removed.
Is that a rod??? Or is it a long bolt? I don't know of any rod that connects to the spring. It sounds like the spring bolt I spoke of.
Originally Posted by mstock
There is a rod which looks like a tie rod that runs towards the back of the car and then turns towards the other side. This connects at the top. this rod is disconnected.
I don't follow that description. The tie rod is a tie rod. It doesn't run "towards the back of the car" It is anchored at the rear of the diff and is attached to the knuckle with a conventional looking tie rod end. The tie rod I am talking about is just like the tie rod in your front steering gear. The tie rod end has to be separated from the rear knuckle, just as it would have to be done if you were going to replace it. It has a tapered ball stud going into the knuckle, like any tie rod end.
Originally Posted by mstock
The strut has a rod on the top and bottom. It is disconnected at the bottom. The arm that runs from the camber bolt over is still totally connected. I have removed all 4 ujoint straps. I can not move the half shaft at all, other than to rotate it around.
There is no strut. I have no clue as to what you've disconnected. The strut rod ("The arm that runs from the camber bolt over is still totally connected.") is what you say you haven't disconnected. The service manual would have you mark the cam adjustment and disassemble it at the inner end. I prefer to unbolt it at the outer end, so I don't have to disturb the alignment. I think I mentioned that in my first post. It looks like you have undone a few extra items. You still have one or two to go.
So, I do disconnect the rod at the knuckle(the outside as you put it)that runs to the camber bolt. Thats what I'm doing wrong. Thanks for your help
THAT is the strut rod. The knuckle end is the outer end. At the diff, is the inner end. I'd love to know what all else you've disconnected. The spring rod? The rod that runs towards the back of the car and then turns towards the other side? The rod that goes to the bottom of the strut? One more wrong bolt and you are going to have the whole drive train laying on the concrete, engine and all.