DeWitts New 2006 Catalog
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Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Brighton
DeWitts New 2006 Catalog
We will be introducing our new 2006 catalog at Carlisle this weekend. If you want to view it or download a pdf, here it is. It's only 24 pages, so you could print a whole copy off.
DeWitts 2006 Catalog
DeWitts 2006 Catalog
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
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Tom I have a question about your radiators, it is of interest to me and it might generate interest for some others as well.
I have a '92, 6-spd. I run an electric water pump, standard 180 degree thermostat, etc. The setup seems to work great, I've never had a coolant overheating issue. My LT1 however does NOT have an oil cooler, none of them did. Most of the time for my street driving this is never a problem. Sometimes though for track days I notice my oil temps rise pretty quickly and they don't drop nearly as quickly as the coolant temp will.
I was curious what your thoughts would be about using the radiator for an AUTOMATIC car on my manual, and plumbing the transmission cooler as an oil cooler. There aren't a lot of oil cooler solutions for C4's that are the easiest to install. I think if this would work it would net a very clean setup. It might not be the best oil cooling solution but I think it might be better than nothing.
Any thoughts?
I have a '92, 6-spd. I run an electric water pump, standard 180 degree thermostat, etc. The setup seems to work great, I've never had a coolant overheating issue. My LT1 however does NOT have an oil cooler, none of them did. Most of the time for my street driving this is never a problem. Sometimes though for track days I notice my oil temps rise pretty quickly and they don't drop nearly as quickly as the coolant temp will.
I was curious what your thoughts would be about using the radiator for an AUTOMATIC car on my manual, and plumbing the transmission cooler as an oil cooler. There aren't a lot of oil cooler solutions for C4's that are the easiest to install. I think if this would work it would net a very clean setup. It might not be the best oil cooling solution but I think it might be better than nothing.
Any thoughts?
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,672
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Tom I have a question about your radiators, it is of interest to me and it might generate interest for some others as well.
I have a '92, 6-spd. I run an electric water pump, standard 180 degree thermostat, etc. The setup seems to work great, I've never had a coolant overheating issue. My LT1 however does NOT have an oil cooler, none of them did. Most of the time for my street driving this is never a problem. Sometimes though for track days I notice my oil temps rise pretty quickly and they don't drop nearly as quickly as the coolant temp will.
I was curious what your thoughts would be about using the radiator for an AUTOMATIC car on my manual, and plumbing the transmission cooler as an oil cooler. There aren't a lot of oil cooler solutions for C4's that are the easiest to install. I think if this would work it would net a very clean setup. It might not be the best oil cooling solution but I think it might be better than nothing.
Any thoughts?
I have a '92, 6-spd. I run an electric water pump, standard 180 degree thermostat, etc. The setup seems to work great, I've never had a coolant overheating issue. My LT1 however does NOT have an oil cooler, none of them did. Most of the time for my street driving this is never a problem. Sometimes though for track days I notice my oil temps rise pretty quickly and they don't drop nearly as quickly as the coolant temp will.
I was curious what your thoughts would be about using the radiator for an AUTOMATIC car on my manual, and plumbing the transmission cooler as an oil cooler. There aren't a lot of oil cooler solutions for C4's that are the easiest to install. I think if this would work it would net a very clean setup. It might not be the best oil cooling solution but I think it might be better than nothing.
Any thoughts?
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
Agree, partially but not totally. People have argued that the oil temperature at the bearing surface is always significantly higher than the oil temperature in the pan, or after the filter wherever the temperature is measured. Although we would prefer that moisture in the oil not actually burn off at the bearing surface, we don't have a lot of choice, it is always going to happen that way and there isn't much we can do about it.
Second an oil cooler would also serve partially as an oil warmer. Coolant temps rise faster than oil temps in cold weather.
I'm comfortable with oil in the 180-220 range. I know mobil 1 is supposed to protect to something like 420 degrees but I really don't want to test that. If I run the car hard oil temps can easily climb to the 240-260 range and I would like to keep them cooler than that.
Also most of my driving is relatively short trips anyway so the oil never really gets that hot. To best to protect against condensation I just follow a strict 3000 mile oil change interval even though I do use Mobil 1. So for most of my daily driving it would actually just warm the oil up faster, but for track days it would keep it lower.
Second an oil cooler would also serve partially as an oil warmer. Coolant temps rise faster than oil temps in cold weather.
I'm comfortable with oil in the 180-220 range. I know mobil 1 is supposed to protect to something like 420 degrees but I really don't want to test that. If I run the car hard oil temps can easily climb to the 240-260 range and I would like to keep them cooler than that.
Also most of my driving is relatively short trips anyway so the oil never really gets that hot. To best to protect against condensation I just follow a strict 3000 mile oil change interval even though I do use Mobil 1. So for most of my daily driving it would actually just warm the oil up faster, but for track days it would keep it lower.
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Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Agree, partially but not totally. People have argued that the oil temperature at the bearing surface is always significantly higher than the oil temperature in the pan, or after the filter wherever the temperature is measured. Although we would prefer that moisture in the oil not actually burn off at the bearing surface, we don't have a lot of choice, it is always going to happen that way and there isn't much we can do about it.
Second an oil cooler would also serve partially as an oil warmer. Coolant temps rise faster than oil temps in cold weather.
I'm comfortable with oil in the 180-220 range. I know mobil 1 is supposed to protect to something like 420 degrees but I really don't want to test that. If I run the car hard oil temps can easily climb to the 240-260 range and I would like to keep them cooler than that.
Also most of my driving is relatively short trips anyway so the oil never really gets that hot. To best to protect against condensation I just follow a strict 3000 mile oil change interval even though I do use Mobil 1. So for most of my daily driving it would actually just warm the oil up faster, but for track days it would keep it lower.
Second an oil cooler would also serve partially as an oil warmer. Coolant temps rise faster than oil temps in cold weather.
I'm comfortable with oil in the 180-220 range. I know mobil 1 is supposed to protect to something like 420 degrees but I really don't want to test that. If I run the car hard oil temps can easily climb to the 240-260 range and I would like to keep them cooler than that.
Also most of my driving is relatively short trips anyway so the oil never really gets that hot. To best to protect against condensation I just follow a strict 3000 mile oil change interval even though I do use Mobil 1. So for most of my daily driving it would actually just warm the oil up faster, but for track days it would keep it lower.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
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So by that reasoning GM has spent plenty in R&D and the stock radiator is sufficient as well right?
It's all good as long as we're talking stock applications. If you road race though or have ideas of extended high RPM driving you might run into an area that GM didn't plan for. Hence my question if you thought it would work in this application.
It's all good as long as we're talking stock applications. If you road race though or have ideas of extended high RPM driving you might run into an area that GM didn't plan for. Hence my question if you thought it would work in this application.
