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Sorta public service thread here as I am sure others want to know too.
Please explain the torque converter stall speed effects on our trannys.I think I know why racing engine uses a high stall converter just trying to confirm my thoughts. I am getting my Mad Dog stage 2 punisher installed with a 2000 stall converter what can I expect.
Sorta public service thread here as I am sure others want to know too.
Please explain the torque converter stall speed effects on our trannys.I think I know why racing engine uses a high stall converter just trying to confirm my thoughts. I am getting my Mad Dog stage 2 punisher installed with a 2000 stall converter what can I expect.
I'm no expert but I was told by others here that with a well built TC, that does not have too high of a stall, a cooler is not needed. Plus correct me if I'm wrong but I think the late model C4's have factory coolers. But I've heard they are not very effective. I would go higher on the stall though. I was told that with my shift kit and 2800 stall TCI, I would even want higher eventually. So far I'm very satisfied. I usually rev it to around 2600 or so but I need to get to the track to see real times.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Aug 24, 2005 at 07:16 PM.
Reason: addition
I am not really going to go to the track much if ever but I would like to get the best launch I can so I chose a lower stall till/if I start modding the engine so I would not loose stock character.
So how should I do it in neutral or power brake it to 1500rpm?
I did the neutral thing one time in a 91 ford escort. Please don't laugh. Yes I admit it, I once drove a ford. Anyway.. It was a four cylinder with an auto trans and I knew absolutely nothing about cars. I just wanted to see if I could make it peel out. Well it did along with leaving my transmission in the toilet. Thats the last time I ever did that. Lesson learned.
So if I understand this correctly (no nutral - keep it in drive)
If you just put your foor to the floor when the light turns green the car pretty much sits still untill the revs reach 2200 & then the TC locks up and you burn rubber.
If on the other hand if you just feather the gas .... even though it's not locked up you can just sort of take off normally without attracting attention. Correct?
So if I understand this correctly (no nutral - keep it in drive)
If you just put your foor to the floor when the light turns green the car pretty much sits still untill the revs reach 2200 & then the TC locks up and you burn rubber.
If on the other hand if you just feather the gas .... even though it's not locked up you can just sort of take off normally without attracting attention. Correct?
Well if my two previous assumptions are correct (meaning that I correctly understood Vaders explaination)....then I might want to get one of these ... so the next question is...
How much of as additional strain does a 2000, 2500, 3000 stall converter put on the rear portion of the drive train?
Sorry Redeasysport didn't mean to hijack your thread
More stall speed = more internal slippage. More slippage = more heat. Coolers are nescessary. Big stall converters require big coolers. When the torque converter goes into lock up, all parts turn at the same speed resulting in a 1:1 ratio. At this point there is no slippage at all and no extra heat is produced. Some guys eliminate the lock up feature. I like it. It keeps mileage up and heat down.
Well if my two previous assumptions are correct (meaning that I correctly understood Vaders explaination)....then I might want to get one of these ... so the next question is...
How much of as additional strain does a 2000, 2500, 3000 stall converter put on the rear portion of the drive train?
Sorry Redeasysport didn't mean to hijack your thread
The harder you "hit" the drivetrain, the more likely you are to break drivetrain parts. Also you street tires become less effective in the grip department. Too much stall is bad. Pushes your car into an rpm band that could be less effective in producing great et's. The trick is to find just the right stall for your combination.
Pretty ironic that this question came up today. I got the full tour today in a local torque converter remanufacturing facility. This place also builds full ballz out racing stuff. I got to see, feel and touch all internal parts inside my converter. Saw some really trick stuff also.
A torque converter is also a torque multiplier. It allows the engines torque to be multiplied before it goes thru the trans. It also cushions the shock to the driveline(to a point) compared to a stick. This is part of the reason why stick cars break more driveline parts than a comparable auto car. This is also why autos are so popular with dragracers.
This may not be the answer your looking for, as far as how to launch your vette. but.. Check out the links below. How stuff works or ask jeeves are usually good sources for learning about basic auto technology.
So Pete what is the best way to launch with a higher stall converter just floor it or power brake?
It depends. It will flash to a higher rpm when you floor it from idle. This will hit the tires and drivetrain brutally hard and make traction almost impossible. When you power brake, the rpm that you break to will also affect stall. Higher rpm will take the shock out of it and make everything "happier". This is what I do when I race. "My" combo likes to footbrake to approx 2k. This allows for approx 2500 flash stall. My suspension, tire combo and powerband of the engine make this a good combo for me. The torque converter questions are very hard for any 1 or 2 people to answer. Very misunderstood and complicated. Plus every car and driver need different combos to suit the need.