C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Diff Carrier - Dana 36 Batwing Bushing

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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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Default Diff Carrier - Dana 36 Batwing Bushing

Is there a secret to pressing these little gems into the diff carrier? I used lots of silicon spray and a 20 ton press today. The bushing is bigger then the hole. I tried just about everything to get them press in with no luck. I even used a few choice words while attempting this feat and they didn't work either, so I packed up my tools and left the shop for the day. I could use a few pointers from those who have done this before....

Frank
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Corvette86
Is there a secret to pressing these little gems into the diff carrier? I used lots of silicon spray and a 20 ton press today. The bushing is bigger then the hole. I tried just about everything to get them press in with no luck. I even used a few choice words while attempting this feat and they didn't work either, so I packed up my tools and left the shop for the day. I could use a few pointers from those who have done this before....

Frank
Did you cut the steel shell from the old bushing out of the batwing?
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Did you cut the steel shell from the old bushing out of the batwing?
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 10:51 AM
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Indeed for some areas installing poly bushings requires that the steel insert be removed while others do not. If youi are using ES poly bushings, check the installation instructions.

If the Id of the steel insert is smaller than the OD of the bushing, drive or press out the insert.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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Guys,

I purchase the Prothane kit from Ecklers. Didn't come with instructions nor does their website have anything useful. I didn't cut the shell out but will do in next day or so.....

Thanks,
Frank
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Did you cut the steel shell from the old bushing out of the batwing?


I suggest that you measure the ID of the batwing bore and machine the bushing with a few thousanths interferrence fit. The amount of effort to remove that sleeve is not it.

BTW, my sleeve was aluminum.

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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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You need to carefully drill holes all the way around the outside of the rubber bushing be very carefull not to nick the aluminum of the batwing itself, after you get the rubber bushing out you will then have to cut out the aluminum shell that is in the batwing. If you have not already damaged the rubber of the bushing I would leave it alone. I replaced these on my car because they came with the kit. If I would have known they were such a pain to get out I would have left them, they were in great shape compared to the rest of the bushings on the back of the car. Good luck.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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Sorry I just realized that you already have removed the bushing and are trying to install the new one, good luck you have to cut out the aluminum insert that is in the bat wing, I used a dremel tool and a hack saw blade to make one cut and then a pair of pliers to fold it in a little and then pull it out.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 03:36 AM
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The bushing has to be put in with a press.
One side of the bat wing has a sharp streight end and the other has a flang on it to install the bushing.
It takes a ton of force even if you install on the correct side.
They should have come with a grease that looks like bee honey ,and gets all over everything.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 04:13 AM
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I heard someone say on some thread somewhere a while back that they used fire to remove control arm bushings to just melt them instead of pressing them out. I thought about doing that when I was rebuilding my front suspenson, but was not too sure if the heat of the flame would weaken the soft aluminum so I passed on that.

Last edited by 86PACER; Aug 26, 2005 at 04:16 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 05:56 AM
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When installing my front & rear sway bar bushings into the end fittings I was able to get the new bushings pressed in using a large C-clamp and the right size socket. And, yes, lots of the "goop" does help; it's just hell to get off your hands afterwards.
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