zf6 conversion status
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque NM
zf6 conversion status
Well, I was delayed at little due to the evacuee stuff, but here what I learned so far
Scat cranks are machined poorly...the interference fit for the pilot bearing was more of a "hole too small"...I had to enlarge it (same as the harm. bal.). An uncormfortable amount of hammering was required to get in at depth.
The only six bolts to go on without a problem were the ARP flywheel bolts.
The clutch disk spring-hub goes toward the flywheel...I had to ask
ARP pressure plate bolts didn't fit because they were too short. Needed 1.75" bolts. The six bolt for the pressure plate went in fine on the bench, but stripped while I was trying to install on the car. BIG PITA...as a closet machine-ist I curse the fidanza guy that refused to use studs in their flywheel. I drilled out the mess an installed heli-coils (I installed more than the one to keep the balance of the flywheel).
Magnesium bellhousing (Lt4). Somewhat of a pita as the length of the bolts required to mount to the bell housing is perfect at 1.75"...no one sells 3/8" bolts at 1.75". To make matters worse some of the holes could handle a 2" bolt. others could not. The lower driver side's two bolts and the pass middle bolt require 1.75" bolts. For those locations that could handle a 2" bolts I used ARP 2" bolts, for the others I had to make studs for the right length out of threaded rod.
Clutch fork...Okay you have to put the stud on the fork and start the stud's threads in the bellhousing. Took a while to figure this out! Used thread locker as suggested.
As mentioned in other posts, depressing the clutch pedal will allow for a much easier installation (I got a far as 3/8" to go before it got completely stuck) BUT WHAT DO YOU WHEN YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL IS NOT INSTALLED...much less the slave cylinder/hydraulic line....with the Master cylinder due in on Thursday? Well I tell you it me a little while to figure it out. A huge 8+" C-clamp comes to mind...except the evil CAGS soleniod is in the way. I finally had to cut the handle off the C-Clamp to get the tool in place...then I used an allen wrench to turn the C-clamp's screw and depress the clutch fork.
Didn't seem to cut as much away from the tunnel as others warn...although I still have to "fill in" the side of the tunnel where there was no vertical wall due to the clearance required by the auto shifter.
My latest challenge has to do with getting the tranny into the c-channel...with the auto I'd just manhandle the tranny into the c-channel then (along with the "propeller" shaft) put into place. I'm one bolt from dropping the diff so wish me luck tomorrow.
Just for the record
The hardest parts to find
clutch fork Stud ball...GM part number XXXXXX09 is the one you need
ZF6 yolk...junk yard
manual interior trim piece...I'm going to see if I can get away with the auto-piece with the short shifter
Most expensive parts
Tranny but not by much $1300 factory re-built shipped
clutch kit $800
time
Most surprising purchase
Magnesium bellhousing $130 bucks
Hurst shifter...very OEM like
WIll post the definitive parts list once I do the final tally
In the meantime, those that have converted to the ZF6 from auto's please chime in your words of encouragment.
Woody (Can't get anything fixed right in Alabama) T
Scat cranks are machined poorly...the interference fit for the pilot bearing was more of a "hole too small"...I had to enlarge it (same as the harm. bal.). An uncormfortable amount of hammering was required to get in at depth.
The only six bolts to go on without a problem were the ARP flywheel bolts.
The clutch disk spring-hub goes toward the flywheel...I had to ask
ARP pressure plate bolts didn't fit because they were too short. Needed 1.75" bolts. The six bolt for the pressure plate went in fine on the bench, but stripped while I was trying to install on the car. BIG PITA...as a closet machine-ist I curse the fidanza guy that refused to use studs in their flywheel. I drilled out the mess an installed heli-coils (I installed more than the one to keep the balance of the flywheel).
Magnesium bellhousing (Lt4). Somewhat of a pita as the length of the bolts required to mount to the bell housing is perfect at 1.75"...no one sells 3/8" bolts at 1.75". To make matters worse some of the holes could handle a 2" bolt. others could not. The lower driver side's two bolts and the pass middle bolt require 1.75" bolts. For those locations that could handle a 2" bolts I used ARP 2" bolts, for the others I had to make studs for the right length out of threaded rod.
Clutch fork...Okay you have to put the stud on the fork and start the stud's threads in the bellhousing. Took a while to figure this out! Used thread locker as suggested.
As mentioned in other posts, depressing the clutch pedal will allow for a much easier installation (I got a far as 3/8" to go before it got completely stuck) BUT WHAT DO YOU WHEN YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL IS NOT INSTALLED...much less the slave cylinder/hydraulic line....with the Master cylinder due in on Thursday? Well I tell you it me a little while to figure it out. A huge 8+" C-clamp comes to mind...except the evil CAGS soleniod is in the way. I finally had to cut the handle off the C-Clamp to get the tool in place...then I used an allen wrench to turn the C-clamp's screw and depress the clutch fork.
Didn't seem to cut as much away from the tunnel as others warn...although I still have to "fill in" the side of the tunnel where there was no vertical wall due to the clearance required by the auto shifter.
My latest challenge has to do with getting the tranny into the c-channel...with the auto I'd just manhandle the tranny into the c-channel then (along with the "propeller" shaft) put into place. I'm one bolt from dropping the diff so wish me luck tomorrow.
Just for the record
The hardest parts to find
clutch fork Stud ball...GM part number XXXXXX09 is the one you need
ZF6 yolk...junk yard
manual interior trim piece...I'm going to see if I can get away with the auto-piece with the short shifter
Most expensive parts
Tranny but not by much $1300 factory re-built shipped
clutch kit $800
time
Most surprising purchase
Magnesium bellhousing $130 bucks
Hurst shifter...very OEM like
WIll post the definitive parts list once I do the final tally
In the meantime, those that have converted to the ZF6 from auto's please chime in your words of encouragment.
Woody (Can't get anything fixed right in Alabama) T
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Dallas Texas
Sounds like you're well on your way! I went through 2 roller pilot bearings before finally getting it in my stock crank properly. I was never able to get the bearing sleave flush with the crank, but ended up being ok.
Check the link in my sig if you want some ideas for making the fiberglass piece to cover the trans tunnel.
Also, there is a guy on ebay who sells reproduction console covers for something like 110-120. However, I'm not terribly happy with the coating they used. It is not an OEM match and stays tacky (collects TONS of dust while the rest of the interior is fairly clean).
After I got the trans mounted, I attached the c-beam. I had to use my 3' persuader to git'r done. I pushed the trans/engine as far to the other side as possible to help.
I'll made a mental note of your c clamp idea for depressing the fork for next time... That was by far the most miserable part of the installation (stabbing the trans), followed very closely by installing the pilot bearing.
Good luck and good to hear another person doing the conversion many say is not worth it... You'll LOVE the results!
Check the link in my sig if you want some ideas for making the fiberglass piece to cover the trans tunnel.
Also, there is a guy on ebay who sells reproduction console covers for something like 110-120. However, I'm not terribly happy with the coating they used. It is not an OEM match and stays tacky (collects TONS of dust while the rest of the interior is fairly clean).
After I got the trans mounted, I attached the c-beam. I had to use my 3' persuader to git'r done. I pushed the trans/engine as far to the other side as possible to help.
I'll made a mental note of your c clamp idea for depressing the fork for next time... That was by far the most miserable part of the installation (stabbing the trans), followed very closely by installing the pilot bearing.
Good luck and good to hear another person doing the conversion many say is not worth it... You'll LOVE the results!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,303
Likes: 714
From: Bartlett IL
This should be one of the best mods you'll ever do. I modded my 4+3 Xfire last year and it is great. Used the Fidanza with no problem. And a mag BH. Clutch is the SLP 11" LT-1 Camaro unit. Oh and I used the Hurst short throw as well. Love it. 
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
I am woried about your pilot bearing mod. THey are always a PITA and it usaly has little to do with the crank. I have used scat cranks for years and have yet to do anything to them other them bolt them in and install the bearing. The bearing is suposed to be a press fit and if the crank hole is to big the bearing will probably start to walk on you. I hope I am wrong and wish you the best.
