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Picked up my car this weekend, been sitting for about a year or so without being touched/moved etc (Joined military and have been away from it).
Fired up after 3 cranks, sounded nice untill the hood was opened, then I could head an exhaust leak. Car was on trailer at that point so I turned it off and didnt worry about it. Got to my new place, and opened the hood. I saw something not very pleasent.
Appears the flange has warped some how. Whats the likely cause? Pulled the bolt/threading out of the head, so have to heli-coil it and get the header flattened back out.
The exhaust behind the headers is a dual mandrel 3" system. Held up at the exhaust hanger location and thats it. Could the weight have done that? Passanger side seemed fine...
My plans to finish my car are being queered.. Sigh.. Didnt name her the Runt for nothing I suppose
Matt
well just a thought... they look like 2 pieces welded together. like the pipes welded to the flange. i think most after market are 1 piece.
also when you first install headers you tigheten the blots down and its a must that u retighten after a couple days of driving.
They are older LPE headers.
I did retighten them after I ran the motor for a bit.
As I said, was fine when I stored it a year and half ago...
Could I take the header off and have the flange flattened?
Matt
call LPE and see if they will replace them or what thney recommend to do with their headers. if it were me id do that then take the head and header off and too a machine shop to re tap hole and maybe flatten it out.
Looking at the pic,the flange does "appear bent or warped".BUT,Are you sure it wasnt just the threads that got worn out and let the bolt pull?
That being said,when you take the header off to fix the threads,just check the flange for straightness.It may look more bent than it is.I forget the tools they have but theres tools you can use to check to see if something has warped.Check all the other bolt holes as well while youre there and make sure theres no loose slack in them that may allow them to pull out later.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I'd guess the threads were worn, weak and just pulled out allowing the warpage. It shouldn't be a big deal to straighten. If you don't have access to a shop, take it to a welding, metal fab shop or somewhere of that nature and they should be able to do it in no time.
And a good thread insert repair in your aluminum head will be stronger than new. Good luck!
CorvetteKidNC: Does the head have to come off to repair the thread? I want to avoid that. Cause if the heads come off, the LPE Heads and SuperRam go on... And thats just gonna make me cry
Matt
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by VetteRacer282
CorvetteKidNC: Does the head have to come off to repair the thread? I want to avoid that. Cause if the heads come off, the LPE Heads and SuperRam go on... And thats just gonna make me cry
Matt
Well I hate to break your heart. So while it could be repaired on the car, depending on access to the area, it would be much easier to insure that a top-notch repair is done with the head off. Does that help?
CFI:
Does that mean the headers/flange warped from the heat alone? Question: do all headers do that, or is this an isolated instance?
What I mean is that, although the tendency to warp is always present, the warping force isn't powerful enough to pull healthy threads out of the head. Had the threads been good, the bolt would have restrained the flange from warping.
You can take the header to any shop that mills cylinder heads and they can mill your flange perfectly flat again. Also I have seen a machine used by engine rebuilders (sort of a large table top with a grinding surface which moves in a circular motion) that is like a large sander that will also mill the flange flat leaving a very slight rough finish, for pretty cheap. If the flange is not very flat, it will start blowing gaskets under pressure.
I took a header flange off my BBC altered roadser (even with open headers/collectors I could not keep gaskets in it) to get it trued with the large table grinder I mentioned. I did not even have to use an exhaust manifold gasket after that...just bolted the header directly to the cylinder head. Worked great.
CFI: That would be understandable if the car was driven alot. But like I said, car was fine before, 1.5 year later its warped? Only thing I can imagine is the weight of the exhaust did it, but that doesnt seem too likely either..
The heads are stock/ported, so threads being gone already wouldnt be too big of a surprise, 87 with ~150k before it died..
Any idea what a shop charges to R&R heads/intake? I no longer have the place to work on the car like that, outdoor storage isnt very friendly.. heh.
Matt
From: What do I know anyway? I'm just a 50 year old No0b
Those headders have a really thick flange! I would be amazed if they warped in only that spot and that much. Nobody 'banged around' under the car while it was in storage did they? I've never seen one warp like that.
Another thought, with those thick flanges and a lock washer on the bolt as well; how much thread was actually in the head?
Wow matt, it's been a LONG time since you posted...what's up man.
I have no clue why it would warp like that, other than head...but if it hasn't been ran...